Roger Blassberg

Seat belts are another favourite site for mould growth. Try spraying lightly with a bathroom mould killer, but NOT one with bleach in it. Best wishes RB

The spring sun was shining as I drove past the Jaguar dealer, and those langorous cats looked so inviting, lounging on the forecourt like lions in the Serengeti......... so I stopped to have a closer look. And there she was, her ample rear (tyres) in a subtle clothing of metallic light silver blue. Her xenon headlights appeared to flash their brilliance directly at me as I approached, beckoning me ever closer. Her sleek flanks were adorned with the understated green and red decoration which could signify only one thing. "R". Did this mean the initial of my name? Could it be a sign that we were destined to be together? Too late I realised that her magnetism was drawing me closer, closer..... "Good morning Sir". Her keeper scented a victim. "Can we help you?" Before I could resist the temptation, I was saying, "Yes, could I have a closer look at the S Type R?" "Of course, Sir. Would you like to sit inside? I'll get the keys and start her up". The intoxication, the purring murmer from 4.2 litres soon gave way to the banshee wail from her supercharger as she leapt at my merest touch like a thing possessed , her soft interior hugging me in its embrace, urging me to go further, faster, to take her for my own. The die was cast, the cheque was written, she is mine to the extent that she can ever be possessed by another.

For a lot of things, in particular rubber or plastic items such as seals, hoses belts, suspension bushes etc., age is at least as relevant as mileage. So just because you have very low mileage, don't neglect routine inspection of such items. Best wishes RB

Yes. It does seem to be enormously expensive, doesn't it ? It goes on the vertical face of the block/head where the two halves of the timing cover bolt up to it, and probably on the horizontal faces between the covers and the head gasket extension as well. Be especially careful not to block the oil feed to the top tensioner bolt. Best wishes RB

I suggest you add the sealant for the timing chain covers. Best wishes RB

It is worth considering an exchage head from VAG. I paid about £750 plus VAT about 3 years ago, no idea what it is now, but that was for a complete head, valves, springs, cams, tappets etc, all with a 24 month warranty. Best wishes RB

ARB drop links are quite fragile. If it is that, get it done soon because the broken end can tear the cv joint boot and then it's more expense. Best wishes RB

Any slack in the wheel bearings may allow the hub to rock on the stub axle and touch the pads against the disc(s). Running in reverse will put different forces on the wheels compared to running forwards, especially if the suspension geometry is out of normal limits.. Be careful though; don't over-tighten the bearings or they will be ruined in no time flat. Does the brake screech if you jack the car up and spin the unloaded wheel in reverse by hand? Best wishes RB

It sounds like a problem with either the float switch or the float itself in the master cylinder/fluid reservoir. If the level of fluid is correct, the float may still be too low if it has a puncture - see if it has any fluid in it. The light may go out under braking because the brake fluid sloshes about and affects the level. If the switch is intermittently faulty it may cause the flicker - check the connections to the switch and clean then with a proprietary contact cleaner. If none of these cures the problem, check the wiring to the fluid reservoir switch. If that doesn't cure it you may need to change the switch (not sure if that entails replacement of the reservoir too). Best wishes RB

You need an 8mm hexagon (Allen) key to undo the caliper carrier bolts. They will be VERY tight, so make sure that the key is well-and-truly into the socket before you start heaving and that it is kept fully engaged during the undoing process, or you will round it out. It's a good idea to put in new bolts on reassembly. Soak the bolts in releasing fluid (WD40 is ok, PlusGas is better, Wurth Rost-Off Ice is the best but hard to find). The new bearings can be tapped in using appropriately sized sockets. Best wishes RB

I tend to go in the parents and toddlers areas where the spaces are wider. Judging by what you see sometimes, it looks as though the toddler did the parking. Otherwise I go to the far side of the carpark where very few others go - it's worth walking a bit further to keep the panels straight. Best wishes RB

Chips Away have a network of franchises- go onto Google for the nearest one. If the paint is not damaged, the repair is usually a fraction of the cost of a conventional body shop. Best wishes RB

And the prices go up and down like a bride's nightie. I'm told that there is someone permanently employed at Milton Keynes keeping an eye on the availability of after-market parts and on the demand/throughput, and adjusting VAG prices accordingly. Sometimes there are real bargains to be had, for instance when I had my exchange cylinder head the price had just dropped about £400 to "only" £750 Best wishes RB

The other options, not so far mentioned, relate to interior trim. Leather, electric adjustment, seat heaters, Recaro seats, a combination of these. Aircon was an after-sale option, usually a Diavia system. Best wishes RB

If you can find a thread tap tool which just bites ito it, or a stud extractor, screw it in and then pull it out. Don't use one that's too big, or you'll expand the bush and it won't come out. It is bronze, so fairly soft. If that doesn't work, you can always go back to the hacksaw blade method. Incidentally, it is likely that you will invalidate the warranty on the new starter motor if the bush is not replaced. Best wishes RB

Overfuelling could be caused by a lambda probe or associated wiring problem. Also, the MAF could be playing up. I don't quite understand the reference to losing all that oil; can you clarify - did it get digested by the engine due to a breather problem? If so, it may have damaged your catalytic converter - have a friendly MOT tester do a quick exhaust analysis. Best wishes RB

Thanks Mat. I have looked in the RossTech website again. It aopears that the version 311 does not do Basic Settings, and yet this is one of the functions which I imagine I would need most of all (for instance when reconnecting the battery). Am I reading it right? Is there a way around this? Am I being pushed inexorably towards a full-priced cable/licence/registration? Berst wishes RB

I am seriously considering installing VAG-COM onto my new laptop - it seems that I need a cable to connect to the car. The Ross Tech site sells them for over $300, but there are others available on eBay for a few pounds. Has anyone bought from eBay - is this a reliable source? If not, where else to get it without spending over £150? What are the risks? Would I need anything else other than the cable and the software downloaded from the Ross Tech site? I have a '94 VR6 Corrado and a '94 16V Passat (ABF engine) both with the multi-pin socket. I assume that VAG-COM will talk to both. Best wishes RB

I have FINALLY got to the root cause of all the problems with the wipers . The whole mecanism is supported in three places, namely the two wiper spindle carriers as they pass through the bodywork under the windscreen and by the wiper motor support fixed to the scuttle (see previous discussion above relating to the rubber mounting grommet at this point). The wiper spindle carriers provide rigidity to the mechanism by virtue of their being fixed to the main frame of the wiper system by rivets (quite big ones, but not by bolts as I had imagined).See Bentley, section 92.2 One of the two rivets on the driver's side had sheared and the spindle carrier was therefore not fixed properly to the support frame with the result that the whole thing flopped about and was incapable of holding the blade to the screen at high speed. It was an easy job to drill the rivet out and substitute it with an M6 nut and bolt, with appropriate spring washer. The bolt head just clears the path of the 3-pointed crank. The result is full restoration of rigidity, which isn't bad at my age. No more flopping, no more support frame misery..... A test run at "appropriate speed" has confirmed that this is a complete cure to the problem which has been hounding me , and probably others, for ages. In combination with Lupo wipers, I can see in the rain again. Best wishes RB

I used to drive to/from Berlin on a regular basis, via Calais, Lille, Gent, Antwerp, Venlo, Essen, Dortmund, Bielefeld, Hannover, Magdeburg. It takes about 7 or 8 hours from Calais. As Eric says, the Ruhrgebiet (Essen, Dortmund etc.) can be horrible if you hit it at the wrong time of day. As others have said, be careful in Netherlands, the speed limit is very rigorously enforced. In Germany only some sections of the Autobahnen are de-restricted contrary to popular myth. But on those that are, be prepared to experience very rapid traffic indeed and keep your eyes peeled in the rear-view mirror. Good lane discipline is expected and you will make yourself very unpopular if you don't clear the overtaking lane even at 180+ km/h. I was once driven at 270km/h in SW Germany, perfectly legally on a 2 lane Autobahn and the locals are used to having traffic come up behind at very high closing speeds; they get out of the way and so should you. Incidentally, it is an offence to flash your lights at people to get them to clear the lane, as is any form of (cough) gesture. A peculiarity in Germany if you are driving alone; another driver, if supported by a witness, can report you to the Polizei for any offence such as speeding, dangerous driving etc., and you are powerless to defend yourself unless you in turn have a supporting witness. Don't park on the "wrong" side of the road as so many people do here - you'll probably get a ticket. One point for the un-initiated. In towns and cities in Germany, as you turn right at traffic lights you must give way to pedestrians crossing parallel to you. Also, in the absence of signs to the contrary (a yellow diamond with a diagonal line through it) you give way to traffic approaching from the right. You must have your documents, (licence, insurance, V5) with you whenever you are driving. You must have a fire extinguisher and first aid kit in the car, and spare bulbs and a reflective jacket are mandatory in some countries. Take an international accident report form with you just in case. Strictly speaking you should modify the headlights to obscure yor left-dipping beam. They say that in Germany, unless it is specifically allowed, it is forbidden! Maybe an exaggeration but there is an element of truth in it. Have fun in Berlin, it's a great city. If you are coming in from the Magdeburg direction, you drive into Berlin along the famous AVUS racetrack and past the radio tower which stands on the banked curve at the east end of it. What part of Berlin are you going to? Best wishes RB

I had a lot of rattles and creaks coming from mine too. If you take off the arm, behind it there is a large nut securing the spindle where it passes through the bodywork. This was very loose and simply tightening that made a huge difference. Also, try looking at the mounting of the motor mechanism; take off the cover inside the rear door and check that all the mounting bolts are properly secure. Best wishes RB

Pickard1, yes that was the movement I had before restoring the rigidity as described . Latest update; I looked again at this, and the grommet is easily removed from the bracket. It has the remains of a part number on it, although that is illegible after being compressed for the last 13 years or so. Maybe a replacement is available separately. Anyway, I took it off and put suitably-sized tap washers either side of the bracket with the steel washer on top and the bolt through the whle lot. It's a perfect fit and 100% wipers are reliably restored. Mods., It might be worth incorporating this into the "Lupo wipers" sticky. I'll write the narrative if you want and leave you to paste it in. Best wishes RB

Successful outcome !! The bracket supprting the wiper motor is bolted to the body, under the bonnet, with a 10mm head bolt through a rubber grommet/bush. The rubber has perished, allowing the whole assembly to move about when the wipers are operating, which in turn cuts down on the pressure of the blade onto the screen. I simply tightened the bolt about a 1/4 turn which has restored the rigidity of the assembly, and the wipers are perfect again. Thanks to all who helped, and I hope that Pickard1 can get the same result. Best wishes RB

Very gently prise the mirror glass out of the housing with a wooden or plastic spatula and then disconnect the heater wires. It is clipped to the hub of the adjuster. The adjuster mechanism consists of two sets of plastic rack and pinion gears and they sometimes jump out of mesh and/or jam. You should be able to work out how it operates and persuade the gears to work again. If the motors are working you have a good chance of success so long as the gears are not broken. Best wishes RB

Blades were over a year old to be fair, and they were probably fried by summer weather. I use Holts screen wash in the recommended dilution. It's not the blade that is at fault because new ones do exactly the same thing (except more quietly). This afternoon's entertainment is to investigate the mechanism. It is just as though there is a dip in the windscreen - the wiper touches the screen at both its ends but not in the middle, right in my line of sight, and only on the return stroke. The up stroke is perfect. I'll let you know. Best wishes RB