Roger Blassberg

Sounds like running rich, as you say, but it seems to vary from cylinder to cylinder which is a bit odd. How's your fuel consumption? How about replacing the blue temperature sensor which controls cold start enrichment (cheap)? Next up, look at the lambda probe and its wiring (moderately affordable) Then you might look at the MAF which also controls air/fuel mixture (expensive). Some one else will no doubt be along shortly to decode your VAGCOM readings, which may take the guesswork out of the process. Mine had some misfiring issues recently which seem to have disappeared since I cleaned the MAF electrical connector block contacts and sprayed them with WD40. Best wishes RB

Why is it that, on a programme devoted to car enthusiasts, the sounds of the cars, (a great part of the enjoyment potential), are drowned out by what some people would describe as "music" ? Why is it that, on a programme devoted to car enthusiasts, the lead presenter makes great play, for contrived "comic effect", of not understanding basic technical details such as the operation of differential gears? Why is it that, on a programme devoted to car enthusiasts, far and away the most entertaining person on the show is an actor who cannot drive to save his life but obviously knows more about differential gears than the professed lead presenter and has a corner named after him? (The second most entertaining person on the show was the young lady in the grey shirt whose, ahem, features appeared immediately behind said actors head in the audience shots....). Thank you, I feel very much better now. Best wishes RB

If you have an uprated loom for the dipped headlights, it is probably here that the fault lies. If it's a properly designed system, there will be an in-line fuse in the switched circuit and this may have blown. This will not affect the main beams or sidelights, as you say in your fault description. Best wishes RB

Try http://www.oemparts.co.uk. They do a full 2.9 ABV engine for £2185 incl. VAT and delivery. It's alot of money, but compared to a head and chains job it's damned cheap. Has anyone used this supplier?? Best wishes RB

In my experience, the missus in the car gives more than enough hot air; get her to chat at the windscreen... Best wishes RB

You will also need to do a Basic Settings to the ECU using Vag-Com or VAG1551. Best wishes RB

There are spaces for 3 sensors in the housing close to the thermostat at the front of the engine, right hand side looking from the front. The blue one (2 pin) sends signals to the ECU about water temperature and so deals with correct fuel/air ratios during warm-up. The second one, (4 pins), was originally yellow and may have been replaced by a black one. This deals with the water temperature gauge and with cooling fans. The third one, if present, is associated with air conditioning. First of all, carefully de-pressurise the cooling system and allow it to cool down; boiling hot water all over your hands is a reliable route to A&E. And watch out for the fans which can come on even with the ignition switched off. They are easily and quite cheaply changed; you just slide a circlip out and the sensor can then be withdrawn. Don't be too heavy handed because the housing is plastic and will be somewhat brittle after 10 years at least. If you break it then you are into replacing it and probably the front pipe, which is a far more major undertaking. Make sure to change the associated rubber O-rings when replacing the sensors. You'll lose some coolant in the process, so have a bottle of G12+ handy. Best wishes RB

Could the whining be coming from the water pump, which is quite close to the front wheel; if it is failing it may explain the overheating. Did your fans come on when the temps got high? Best wishes RB

...........or even http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk Best wishes RB

Go to http://www.sparkplugs.uk The NGK plugs are about £25 for the full set of 6, delivered to your door the next day, which seems reasonable to me. Type BKR5EKU. Best wishes RB

The breadth of knowledge on this forum is just breath-taking. Thanks Musicman. Best wishes RB

I do like a happy ending !! As a slight aside, is there a "proper" way to repair this type of broken connection; in other words, are these moulded plugs amenable to being taken apart so that the wire can be soldered or crimped back onto the back of the pin? Or is there perhaps a replacement type of plug which can be bought which can properly connected to the wiring loom? The most extreme example of these connectors is the one to the ECU, with a huge number of wire terminations; how would that be repaired if a wire breaks off right at the back of the pin? I feel an RW1 moment coming on.......... Best wishes RB

oooooh !! Sehr interessant !! Best wishes RB

Phil, thanks for the link. It seems as though I would be wasting effort to go to the KR cam as there is very little difference. Best wishes RB

Is there a similar improvement to had from a 2.0 litre ABF engine if the KR inlet cam is put in ? I can't sacrifice low revs torque though as we are talking about a B4 Passat Estate. Best wishes RB

Catch twotwo; did you visit the Porsche Museum in Gmund?? It's worth a visit for anyone when in Kaernten. Best wishes RB

I had a 1.8 MK 2 GL Golf Auto. Only 3 speeds. Isn't the Mk 3 a 4 speed box?? Best wishes RB

Is that a thinner gasket, a thicker gasket or one that is just thinking about it ?? (Sorry, it was too good to miss....) Best wishes RB

I would suggest a change of plugs and leads. I had similar problems, not as bad as yours are described admittedly, but a definite misfire and hesitation under load at low revs and a perfectly smooth idle (at least as smooth as can be expected from a VR). New plugs and leads transformed the whole experience. Best wishes RB

You need to remove at least the back part of the ignition lead plastic guides by undoing a few multi-point socket head screws and disconnecting the back 3 plug leads - if you don't have the proper plug lead tool, don't just tug them off the plugs because you may damage them, disconnect at the coil pack and thread them out that way. The original hose clips are single-use crimped type, so you will have to gently prise these off and replace them with jubilee clips (don't overtighten)or genuine replacements from VAG. Best wishes RB

Smoking at idle isn't, in my view, symptomatic of worn bores/rings unless there is a great deal more blue (i.e. oil) smoke at full chat. What colour is this smoke? If it's black, and the idle is rather lumpy, it is an over-rich fuel/air mixture. If it's steamy, it's condensation either due to a cold exhaust system or coolant getting out somehow. Oil smoke on the over-run indicates worn valve guides and/or seals. How much oil is the engine using? A compression test may give you a clue to bore/ring wear. If it comes to it, you can get the pistons out from the bottom if you remove the sump, but I doubt if you can get them back in that way without risking breaking a ring or two. Anyway you would want to check for bore wear which would be very difficult without removing the cylinder head. Have you reduced the oil contents to the maximum level on the dipstick? Don't make any judgements until you have because there will be oil flying around all over the place in the crankcase if it's overfilled. Best wishes RB

Oh puleeeese. Best wishes RB

Pete, the ignition system is based on 3 coils with an ht lead connected to either end of each one - both ignition circuits in the pair have to be earthed for either of them to fire. This arrangement means that there is a spark (in fact a number of very closely spaced sparks) not only at the the very end the compression stroke but at some other time in the cycle too corresponding to the optimum timing for the associated cylinder. If you have an earth leak, such as a dodgy lead where the ht can still find its way to earth, then the other one of the pair will still fire. If you completely disconnect one lead, its twin will not fire either. I have heard that coilpacks tend to fail progressively, especially in damp conditions. I can't confirm that from personal experience. Best wishes RB

At least with your glass tints removed you have a better chance of spotting the "safety" cameras. Best wishes RB

You could have blown the head gasket or the oil cooler could have failed internally; the apparent overfill of oil could in fact be water that has been drawn into the oil system. The plume of smoke may have been steam. Check that you are not losing coolant and that there are not signs of water in the oil (white emulsion, globules etc. You didn't mention whether you have topped up the oil or not; an inch on the dipstick must represent around a litre. Too much oil can damage a catalytic converter, but judging from the picture of an "H" reg., you don't have a cat anyway. Best wishes RB