Roger Blassberg

Have peeped. Thanks. Best wishes RB

Thanks, VR6. I'll give that a quick checkover. I would still appreciate the part number though, just in case I need to change it. Best wishes RB

I've had Lupo wipers for about 3 years and they have been trouble free up to now. The blades need replacing quite frequently, but have wiped cleanly and much better than the standard set-up. A few weeks ago the driver's side blade started missing part of the screen on the return stroke (perfect on the rising stroke), so I swapped the blades over with no improvement - passenger side perfect, driver's side missing the middle half of the screen on the return stroke only. The blade was juddering a bit as well, so I bought new blades. They are now silent, bit the driver's side still doesn't clear on the return stroke only. The arm spring seems to be ok (I accept that I have not tested it scientifically or anything, but the pivot is free and the spring isn't broken). I tried a bit of gentle bending of the arm but to no good effect. Has anyone suffered the same? I assume that the only cure is a new arm. Please would someone remind me of the part number for the driver's side on a right hand drive VR6 Thanks Best wishes RB

I thing that's probably a German mobile number, so you would need to dial 0049 1762 etc etc. Best wishes RB

I offer a set of KW coil spring suspension units from a Corrado G60, done about 20 000km. All numbers still readable. Part number 8001109. Certificated for use on Corrado models. Unfortunately I no longer have the adjustment key but they can be bought/ordered from KW with no problem. The front main springs are marked 70-170 and on the rear 50-200. On the front springs 20-40-60. Everything is there for installation, simply take off the old and install the new, and it's done. Email if you have a question, of call 017622658163 Best wishes RB

You need to unscrew the steering wheel adjustment lever to get both parts of the cowling off. Very easy. Best wishes RB

Offered is a complete set of 9x16, et15 for a BMW E30 currently with 4x100 stud pattern. The rims have the so-called UNIFIT system whereby the rims can be adapted from 4x98 to 5x120 with an adaptor. Suitable for various Audi, BMW, Honda, Opel, vehicles. The tyres are currently 215/40x16 Nexens, 2 of which are good for another 2 seasons, 2 are already far gone Rims have been high gloss polished this year and are undamaged by kerbing. Rims need to be polished/cleaned as they have been stored in the garage for 5 months, simply put some polish on and wipe off. Offer 4 rimswith adapter plates 4x100 circle diameter plus aluminium spacers (??)1 cm each side and 16 wheel bolts Have fun bidding. Best wishes RB

Ryan S is, no doubt, able to stand up for himself, but how about giving a civil answer to a civil question? Best wishes RB

I used brake cleaner for the MAF. It is isopropanol, and evaporates without leaving a residue. It certainly did the trick for me. Incidentally, I changed the coilpack last week - that has greatly improved overall smoothness of running, especially on acceleration from low revs. The old one was not apparently arcing when damp, but it must have been generally below par even though the casing seems to be un-cracked. Best wishes RB

Yes, it's a conventional thread so turn the T-bar clockwise and the thread of the tool will turn and push the piston back in. It can be quite difficult at first but once it starts to turn it becomes easier. Take care not to strain the flexible hose whilst wrestling with the caliper Just bear in mind that the bellows-like rubber dust seal might stick to the piston and turn with it, eventually tearing the seal. If it shows signs of doing so STOP and gently push the piston out a bit with the brake pedal. This will give you access so that you can very carefully free the bellows seal from the locating groove in the piston with a non metallic and blunt instrument. Once it is free and allows the piston to turn independently, repeat the winding in process. Re-assemble pads and caliper onto the hub, ideally using new bolts for the caliper because they have locking compound on the threads. Check to ensure that the guide pins, to which the small 13mm head bolts attach, are free to slide. Give the brake pedal 20 or 30 pushes to re-set the pads, then reconnect the handbrake cable and it's done. If you are not changing the discs there may be some rubbing of the pads against the rusty circumference of the disc for a while, but that should soon settle down. Best wishes RB

As Supercharged said, get the proper tool. About £20 from Halfords. Don' t be tempted to try gripping the piston with a plumber's wrench or similar; you will tear the dust seal and gouge the chrome plating on the piston. Best wishes RB

Tonedef, many thanks for the diagrams. Best wishes RB

Right then, they are certainly not working, despite the relays clicking. I would prefer to eliminate all other possibilities before taking the seat elements out, so have looked into Bentley for a clue on which fuse they are wired through. Either I am being rather dim, or the American spec cars did not have electrically heated seats, or the fuse is somewhere other than on the main fuse board (or maybe all three of the above.......). Anyway, does anyone know where the fuse(s) for the heaters might be? It seems slightly odd that both have failed - especially the passenger seat which is completely pristine and looks as though it has hardly ever been used. Thanks Best wishes RB

Try a type 381 bulb. 1.5W. You'll have to solder it into the holder. This also fits the HRW switch. Best wishes RB

Thanks. Best wishes RB

I would appreciate it if someone could remind me of the website address of the German equivalent of AutoTrader. I have referred to it in the past, but the name has slipped my mind. Thanks, Best wishes RB

I think that position 4 is the load reduction relay, (also known as X-relief). This is the one that cuts out lots of circuits during engine cranking to give the starter motor all the juice. I'm having trouble with this at the moment and have still to get to the bottom of it. Symptom is that all those circuits sometimes fail to be reconnected after starting (headlights, wipers, heater blower, ABS etc.). Another relay, another £10. Best wishes RB

I have (allegedly) heated leather Recaros. I thought to give myself a warm-up on these frosty mornings. How long should they take to heat up? When I switch either of them on there is a click, presumably from a relay somewhere at the back. But even after several minutes there is no apparent extra warmth. If I switch on the ignition and headlights, without the engine running there is no dimming of the lights at all when switching on the seat heaters which makes me wonder if they are drawing any current. I would have thought that they are supposed to make quite a drain on the electrical system. If they are faulty, are spare heating elements available and from where? Is the replacement fairly straightforward? Is this a common problem? Best wishes RB

I have a set of 280mm calipers and carriers from a VR6. PM me and we can talk about it. Best wishes RB

I used a bulb type 381, 1.2Watts. It's a bit of a fiddle to solder it in but it fits, it works and is not too bright or hot. Best wishes RB

The Diavia system on mine, which was the standard retro fit, does not have a pollen filter. I have a 94 Passat (non-A/C) which does. Maybe you could cobble something together with parts from a scrapper. It fits in the scuttle area near to the wiper motor. Its quite a big filter housing though. Best wishes RB

The ATE calipers/carriers and, I assume any 288mm discs, most certainly fit behind 15" Speedlines with space for balance weights. I don't know about Brembo calipers, but if the caliper and carrier do fit, then presumably the disc will. I have ATE Power discs (grooved, not drilled), in conjunction with standard VAG pads. They work well but rumble a good deal if really used in anger. Best wishes RB

Despite my previous misgivings, I cleaned my MAF with Halfords Brake Cleaner (predominantly isopropanol, so should evaporate without leaving a residue), and subjectively at least it feels to run more smoothly, particularly at low end of rev range. Best wishes RB

The folklore was always to place an old piston ring onto the top of the piston and then only to scrape off the carbon from the piston crown inside the ring. The idea was that this prevented any disturbance of the sealing of the piston in the bore. I don't know how relevant this is to modern engines. Best wishes RB

VAG. They are pre-treated with a locking compound. Best to use genuine article, methinks. The consequence of failure is too horrible to contemplate. Best wishes RB