Roger Blassberg

I have bought a set of under- bonnet foam insulation from Christian (SPRINTER). Excellent product by the way.Now I need to fit it. So some advice please. Firstly any tips on removing the old foam would be helpful. I was thinking of covering the engine bay with a sheet and just carefully scraping the foam off, but I imagine that there will be some old adhesive to deal with. Should I use a solvent? And then to the sticking of the new foam - does the paper backing peel off to expose a self adhesive layer or do I use a contact adhesive? Best wishes RB

If you still have a set for 1994 VR6 please PM me. Thanks RB

I have an ABF head never used since it was completely refurbed with new guides and seals,complete with cams, new bolts and gasket set, if you decide to go down that route. Best wishes RB

The part I referred to is the ring shaped shroud which fits to the support frame around the impellers, one for each. Part number 357 121 210. They are still available, about £13 each, you will need one for each fan. There are cowls fitted to each side of the radiator itself to funnel air through the grille and the radiator core 535 121 282 and 535 121 283, but these are discontinued as they are unique to the Corrado. best wishes RB

Thanks Hasan I have now stripped and repainted the fan support frame and amazingly have found new plastic fan shrouds from VW stock. So the radiator/fan set up looks brand new. It's all so easy with the bumper and slam panel off the car so I also set about replacing the top timing chain guide rail (just for fun and as a precaution) and the cam cover gasket to cure a niggling oil weep. Best wishes Roger

Thanks Hasan, I hoped that you would give me your views. You mentioned some time ago an a/c specialist you have used in the past in W London somewhere; if you can find the contact details I would appreciate hearing from you. In fact the old heat exchanger is very slim but has thesame frontal area as the main rad. It has a leak and the fins are all falling off so it is beyond saving. The hose connections are nearly all completely solid with corrosion so it is a terrible mess. I will put it back together without a/c for the time being and collect the parts for a later rebuild. I hope you are well, RB

I decided that the time has come to replace the coolant radiator and sort out the Diavia aircon. So far so bad!! The bumper and the slam panel came away quite easily but the aircon radiator had just disintegrated, the wiring all falling to pieces, the dryer receiver a mess and all the hose connections totally siezed up so had to be cut off. I may decide to do away with the ac, but maybe some people have been here already and can give me some advice. I will need a dryer an ac radiator as well as various hoses. Maybe more. Best wishes RB

Does the position of the intermediate shaft really matter?

My advice is NOT to put sealant on the projecting head gasket , if you need to take the covers off again you will tear the gasket and then you will have to take off the head to replace it. Best wishes RB

I had a bit of a shock yesterday when I started the VR6. Almost immediately on starting there was a very loud bang, like a firework going off, the engine stalled and a burning smell wafted around. The engine would then start again but immediately die after a second or two. It turned out that the plastic chamber attached to the idle stabilisation valve had been shattered, by a backfire I assume. Fotunately I had a spare and it was easy to fit, resulting in no ill effects. But I am a bit unhappy or uneasy. Why did it backfire in the first place? The engine runs very well indeed with a good steady idle, good fuel economy and no stalling at junctions. I don't think there is any problem with valve timing. There is a little bit of timing chain rattle even though the entire timing chain set up was replaced fairly recently - I put this down to maybe a broken or worn top guide rail which is a job to be done very soon. Any observations are welcome. Best wishes RB

Your first sentence makes no sense at all to me. There is an old and wise saying about not fixing something that isn't brokem. I think that you will be disappointed if you expect 30% more power by gas flowing a 16V head. The old B series engines were fairly crude affairs off the shelf with siamesed inlet ports and not cross-flowed either. The valves were substantially shrouded by the sides of the combustion chambers so there was a lot of improvement to be made. The 9A or ABF heads are good in standard form, maybe use slightly higher lift camshafts if you want to experiment - that modification can be reversed if it doesn't work out. I have a pair of ABF camshafts if you want to make me an offer. Best wishes RB

It's nice to know that my ancient threads are still being useful. I'm still here, as is my Corrado !! Best wishes RB

Just a pity that it suggests that Corrado drivers are a bit dim. RB

Bentley wiring diagram 201 shows speed sensor condensors component C17 across each of the sensors. I know where the sensors are but where on the car are the condensors? Inside the ecu perhaps. Does anyone know for sure please. Best wishes RB

I used Vanish carpet cleaner from an aerosol can, scrubbed it in gently with a washing-up brush, let it dry thoroughly then vacuum it off. Finally buff it up with a stiff brush. Even on a beige panel it looks absolutely clean, it even took the dirt lines at the side trims off. Incidentally, I reinforced the corners at the sunroof/reading light panel opening, where it could break when you put it back in, by bonding some thin plastic onto the fibreboard at the back with superglue. I did the same at the tabs which locate the liner into the back of the roof near the hatchdoor.

VW do a specific, very expensive grease for the sunroof. By all accounts it is the only thing to use in the long term as it resists oxidation and hardening, and contamination with dirt. Best wishes RB

If you are talking about the rubberstrips that run along the edges of the roof I will buy them. Please pm me with your wanted price,and then we can arrange postage. Best wishes RB

I suggest, particularly in this weather, that you heat up the plastic moulding very thoroughly with a hair dryer before you try to fit the clips, in an attempt to reduce its brittleness.

Thanks for your quick reply. Any idea about getting new terminals so that i can install new wires into the terminal block?

Does anyone know of a toolkit for taking multipin connectors apart, taking individual pins out to rewire broken wires?

Nick I'll take it . Tried to do a "Buy Now " but my browser won't let me. Anyway consider it sold. You still have my mobile number? Best wishes RB

Nick I'll take it . Tried to do a "Buy Now " but my browser won't let me. Anyway consider it sold. You still have my mobile number? Best wishes RB

Oil won't pour out, it's too high up. The oil isn't at full pumped pressure there in the crankcase. Best wishes RB

Crank position sensor (it always shows a fault when the engine is not running, quite difficult to check definitively). Fuel pump relay. ECU relay. Best wishes RB

What plugs have you put in? I had something similar years ago when I tried something other than the standard (non-iridium) NGK plugs. Best wishes RB