Roger Blassberg

No, you don't have to wait for fouling to happen again because it is probably the result rather than the cause of the problem. A good test for worn guides/seals is to run the car down a steepish hill in 3rd or 4th gear on a closed throttle; at the bottom of the hill, give it full throttle and if you see lots of blue smoke from the exhaust then it's valve guides/seals. That's because your engine sucks oil past them when revving fast against a closed throttle, and then burns it off once you open up. By the way, how much oil is she using, and what grade? And, (excuse me if this is a cheeky question), are you using the correct plugs? Best wishes RB

The irregular clattering you hear from the timing gear has been likened to that of marbles being shaken in a biscuit tin, and is usually at its worst when the revs are held constant in the range 1000-1500. There is also the possibility that you have one or more worn tappets rattling, but that tends to be a more regular ticking noise, akin to a sewing machine. Do you know and trust the garage that made the diagnosis that a total rebuild is necessary? It's not possible to give a definite opinion over the wires, but all I can say is get a second opinion from a reputable specialist like Stealth. Southam isn't that far from you. To be honest, I wouldn't go to VAG because, in my opinion, they are interested only in the new cars and will just do what is right for them, not necessarily for you. Best wishes RB

Valves will only hit pistons if 1) the timing gear fails, 2) a valve drops. At 123K the timing gear is past its best and some on this forum would advise that it is due for renewal because they have been known to fail catastrophically. This will cost about £900, including a new clutch which is usually done at the same time, or about £350 for the parts if you are a brave soul and do it yourself. Does it rattle badly from the gearbox end at 1000-1500 r.p.m. ? If so, you do need to consider it seriously. Stealth do a cylinder head rebuild, clutch and timing gear complete for about £1500 That mileage is not enormous for VR6 engines by any means so long as everything has been looked after, especially oil changes, and it hasn't been overheated. Maybe the plug looked fouled because it had developed a fault itself and was not burning any contamination off, but at that mileage a head rebuild would be indicated. Have a compression test and oil pressure reading done to see if you are looking at serious bore and/ or crank bearing wear. Only then consider a total rebuild. Best wishes RB

How many miles has the engine done? Could it not just be leaking valve guides/oil seals which are leading to plug fouling? A top end refurb may be all you need at this point. I suggest that you get a bit more evidence of the need for a full rebuild before spending a few thousand pounds. Best wishes RB

Since the VR was sitting around for 2 weeks whilst I was away, it seems that the pick up from closed throttle to small opening has become ragged. The idle is also a bit irregular and surges a little, more than it used to, and often very nearly stalls. Trickling through traffic is marked by lurching from closed to open throttle. It sounds like TPS trouble - am I on the right track here? What are the solutions? Presumably a new TPS ultimately, or is a Basic Settings the first step? Or both? I haven't disconnected the battery or anything to upset the ECU (And compared to the TDI which I hired on holiday, the low revs torque is poo !!) Best wishes RB

The cam cover gasket is not under engine oil pressure as such, but if there is a blocked crankcase breather somewhere there may be some pressure build up. Anyway, if it's coming from that high up at such a rate of flow, it would just go everywhere with the airflow around the engine. Are you sure that you are not overfilling it? Sorry to ask such an elementary question, but if you are, maybe the engine is just vomitting it out. Best wishes RB

Er, anyone for a discussion about the availability of high octane petrol..........? Best wishes RB

just to conclude this. I was confused by the numbering of the pins in the ECU multiplug, and all wires were ok to there from the CPS. It turned out to be a broken wire to the fuel rail. Thanks to all, especially to RW1 for burning the midnight oil on my behalf. Best wishes RB

Looks as though it's in Pforzheim judging by the reg. on the bike; it rains there all right. Best wishes RB

OK RW1. This has been above and beyond the call of duty, especially at 2 o'clok in the morning !! Many thanks. I now have no more time to sort this out as I am away for a couple of weeks, fortunately not dependent on the Passat, so I'll pass it on to my local specialist with your notes. It sounds as though I could do with a decent set of wiring diagrams, particularly for the pin connections to the plugs including the ECU. Where can I find these? I am slightly confused by one thing; if there is a battery voltage between pins 1 and 3 of the CPS plug, how is it that there is no connection on that plug to pin 33 on the ECU? Your last question is very perceptive - and as yet unanswered.... Lastly, as I said at the beginning, there is a spark but apparently no fuel being admitted to the injectors - I assume that is because the CPS is seeing no rotation of the engine and is shutting down the supply. Best wishes RB

RW1, just to double check, do both of these, the CPS and the Hall sender, go to pin 33 on the ECU. There was a good voltage between 1 and 3 on the CPS wiring with ignition on. Pin 3 on the CPS most definitely has no connection to pin 33, so if it is supposed to then that is the fault. I trimmed the insulation on the wire to pin 3 and tested that for a connection to pin 33, to check for a poor connection at the CPS plug and it was open also. Pins 1 and 2 were exactly as you said The ECU relay passed the tests. There is a good voltage at the Hall sender wiring. I'll be glad when I've had enough of this...... Best wishes RB

the relay in position 3 on the Passat is part nr. 165 906 381, marked 30, and has a different pin arrangement to 109. I tried 109 but it buzzed madly and I pulled it out again. Any further thoughts? If not I'll do the meter test. Best wishes RB

As you were. http://www.lowimpact.org/topicsbiofuels Best wishes RB

Have a look at http://www.lowimpact.org/biofuels for info Best wishes RB

Time to put on "Smug Git" uniform. HM Customs and Excise takes a dim view of excise duty evasion, and the smell of frying is something of a giveaway. Best wishes RB

Thanks, I'll try that. I now have a multi meter, (and a VR6 from which to borrow a relay !!). By the way, the CPS was not the problem but at least we now have a pristine one and a new ignition switch. Best wishes RB

Q1.How many MPs are haulage contractors? Q2.How many MPs are farmers? Q3. Are you surprised? QED Best wishes RB

Sainsbury's Super Unleaded, 97 RON was 89.9 yesterday. I recall that I saw a BP tanker parked there sometime ago............. Best wishes RB

Well said, Nick. I just hope I can be as humble if (when??) it turns out that I was wrong not taking people's advice on my still dead 16v Passat. Best wishes RB

1-3-4-2 is the conventional firing order for a 4-cylinder engine, counting from the "front", i.e. belt pulley end. There is a register in the cap which should stop it rotating - is it clipped or bolted ?- anyway it shouldnt turn more than a fraction of a degree. You'll probably find that the length of the leads will give you guidance on which one goes where on the cap. Best wishes RB

Did you see BP's profits ? Hardly surprising really. They have to pay for their falling-over semi-submersible rigs somehow. I heard that Tesco sell 100RON at a few of their sites; don't know the price though. Best wishes RB

I have now changed the crank position sensor (£ 35 +vat from Murray McDonald in Hatfield, Herts., as opposed to £125 +vat at VAG; a very good man to know. 01707 272686, and he does mail order). What a horrible job, necessitating the removal of the starter motor, the front engine support bracket and the oil filter, all so that I could access the one piddling little locating screw. At least it gave me the chance to free up the sticky starter. The old sensor was encrusted with baked-on black goo, looked a bit like one of Mrs. B's oven trays after Sunday dinner duty. So I am quietly confident that I have located the problem. Famous last words.... No further report as yet because I crushed the oil filter taking it off and haven't had a chance to replace it. Irritatingly, it probably didn't need to come off anyway, but |I was trying unsuccesfully to avoid the removal of the front support bracket. I also managed to break the terminal block off of the reversing light switch on the gearbox next to the starter, so more expense. Never mind: if I didn't have this as a distraction I would only be be wasting time. Best wishes RB

Gavin, it's a LHD Passat GT 16V, chassis number R E 127813. Does that help? Best wishes RB

Latest. I took out the ECU and took off the connector. I sprayed WD40 onto the connector and re-assembled it. I then did the same with the connector for the CPS. It started, ran smoothly and switched off normally, so I gave way to temptation and drove it around the block for a while. It stopped after a few miles, was able to be started again once or twice and then stopped cooperating altogether, so I called the trusty C into towing duty. (Mrs B must be stronger than I thought, because she was able to turn the wheel and brake without power-assistance. All those years with a Mk 2 GTi must have built up her biceps - must mind my manners from now on....) CPU part number is 037 906 024 F Next step is to call in an auto electrician and shove RW1's checklist under his nose, (and get myself a proper multi-meter). Keep thinking chaps, it's good for you. Thanks for your continuing interest. Best wishes RB

Thanks to all. Latest info. I got it started on Friday afternoon after rummaging around with ther wiring to the fuel rail - but it wouldn't then turn off!! The thought occured that the ignition switch was defective, so I changed that (a horrible job to get the steering column adaptor sleeve off so that I could withdraw the steering lock), and it ran but still wouldn't turn off when the key was turned and taken out. Now it is sulking again so it must be one of RW1's alternatives which I will start on as soon as it stops raining........... BTW, RW1 you refer to the engine ECU; this is the big box of tricks under the scuttle, next to the wiper mechanism I assume. If it is bu@@ered, I assume that the one from a 16V Golf GTi Mk 3 is the same. Anybody got one surplus to requirements? Best wishes RB