Roger Blassberg

relay in position 12 (right hand end of the second row down, has number 67 or 167 printed on it) is the fuel pump relay. Best wishes RB

...and they won't fit behind standard 15" rims. Best wishes RB

It may be that the previous owner mixed them up. I think you should completely flush out your cooling system and then refill with G12+ Sorry, I can't help with the tank question. Best wishes RB

The goo may be the result of mixing different types of antifreeze. G12+ is compatible with G11 and G12, but G11 and G12 are not compatible with each other. Best wishes RB

Yes, yellow one controls the temp gauge. The blue one tells the ECU what the water temp is. Quite easy to change it, make sure you change the sealing ring and the retaining circlip as well. Just be careful - the housing for the sensors is quite fragile. Have a litre of G12+ to hand because your coolant will fall out when you remove the sensor. Best wishes RB

Well, if it's the belt tensioner bearing it will fail eventually and then sieze solid and then shred the belt, maybe on a rain-swept country road in the middle of the night....... Best wishes RB

Can you give us a clue about where, more precisely, the noise is coming from?? Could it be a slipping belt, a noisy water pump, alternator, PAS pump, belt tensioner bearing, aircon compressor???? Best wishes RB

It sounds to me as though there is every likelihood that your front brakes are binding on. On a gentle incline does it roll freely or maybe you can judge this by very gently rolling up to , say, a set of traffic lights or similar, and feeling if the car rolls unhindered by the brakes. A new set of discs and pads may sort this out especially if there is a substantial ridge around the perimeter of your discs. Best wishes RB

Knock sensors are a bit of a difficult thing to check - they may not give a fault on the diagnostics, but could still be the cause of your problem. Make sure that they are bolted up to exactly the correct torque (15lbf. ft) and that the mating surfaces between it (them) and the block are clean. By the way, what grade of fuel are you using? If your cylinder head or piston crowns have carbon deposits, this may also give rise to pinking - the only real cure for that is to take the head off and scrape the deposits off. Plug grade is important too. Look on http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk for the correct application; they do an excellent mail-order service and are good value. Finally, could your distributor be playing up and not be giving correct timing over the whole rev range. Best wishes RB

have the clutch replaced too - it has to come off for the chains job anyway. Stealth quoted me about £800 plus vat including the clutch. At that mileage you would benefit from a cylinder head refurb as well - about another £600 Best wishes RB

wheel bearings will groan very much more when going around a curve than when in a straight line. It could well be a tyre structure problem or one that is close to being worn out. Best wishes RB

errrr........a forlorn hope I fear. Best wishes RB

well I didn't mean, "Beat the bejazzus out of it with a three pound club hammer", but the point is taken. Perhaps a copper mallet would be a good compromise but probably not an item in most people's kit. Best wishes RB

and use a good quality 8mm hexagon bit in your socket. There's a lot of rubbish tools around these days and a marginally undersized bit will slip and wreck the Allen screws. Also make sure that the bit is driven (hammered) fully into the recess of the Allen screws. What I did was to apply a steadily increasing torque to the socket handle and at the same time hammer the back of the socket/bit into the recess. All 4 came undone without rounding the screw head. It's worth putting new screws in for the sake of a few pounds. Best wishes RB

There should not be any oil in the bell-housing; it sounds as though there is a leaking seal on the input shaft to the gearbox. Best wishes RB

It could be due to a broken engine/gearbox mount, or imperfections in the (normally smooth, flat) flywheel surface which you should check if you have a new clutch. Best wishes RB

If you have an obvious oil leak but the oil level isn't dropping, and you are losing coolant, maybe the coolant is topping up the oil via a blown head gasket. If you think that this is a possible scenario, my very strong advice is to rectify it immediately otherwise the contamination of the oil will lead to bearing/crankshaft/bore/cam wear. Best wishes RB

Front or rear?? Best wishes RB

There must be a water temperature input to the fuel injection/engine management, (via a sensor equivalent to the blue sensor on a VR6). Best wishes RB

There is such a contrast between the yellow and the black that the alignment has got to be absolutely spot-on or it sticks out like a sore thumb, unlike with a dark paint colour, where a very slight mis-alignment is concealed. I tend to be wary of removing factory fitted bits, and the strips most definitely save you from the carelessness of some of our fellow citizens. Best wishes RB

The idiotic grin and the rather ill-advised hat, these should have been a clue to mentality of "Honest John". Now he has confirmed it. "The Hyundai ( 2.0 coupe) is quite a nice car to drive, a bit like a VW Corrado........" :shock: :roll: :cry: take your pick. Best wishes RB

Thanks Tom, I'll have a go Best wishes RB

I can't see the most recent Top Gear video - I get the soundtrack and a pattern effect, but no proper video. Do I need a different player, or what? Best wishes RB

I bought a set from GPC in Luton last week. £81 for the pair including the rear hinge covers and VAT. Tel 01582 728892 They are quite easy to fit. Lever the rear end (!!) off the pin fixture with a wide screwdriver against the hatch-back hinge cover (put a cloth under the lever to save scratching the cover if you are not replacing it), then peel the trim out of its recess towards the front where it is located onto another pin with a slotted hole in the underside of the trim. Clean the recess of dirt and the remains of the old adhesive strip; I used a plastic scraper and a rag soaked in white spirit. It's a tedious job. Now give the roof a really good waxing - it's so much easier when the strips are out of the way - but don't wax into the recesses as this will inhibit the adhesion of the new strips. Take the protective foil off of the adhesive strip, and thoroughly heat it up with either a hair dryer on full heat setting or even a hot air paint stripper gun (be CAREFUL not to burn yourself or to scorch the strip) to make the glue tacky along its whole length. Push the slotted front fixture fully onto its pin and locate the back cap onto the back pin. Now press the trim into the recess, starting at the back and working forward, making sure that the lip is outside of the recess, facing towards the centre of the car. Don't press it firmly and fully down just yet, but make sure that the trim is completely accommodated into the recess throughout its whole length with no bulges; the sliding conector at the front should allow the length to adjust. Now, progressively press the trim down fully so that the adhesive sticks it into the bottom of the recess and spreads the lip flat against the roof. Finally, lift the hinge cover caps off and replace with nice shiny new ones. Result; a very smart roof. You will now be overwhelmed by the desire to give all the rest of the black trim a complete going over with a suitable cleaner. Takes a couple of hours and is a bit of a fiddle. I think that the secret is very scrupulously to clean out the remains of the old adhesive and to get the new glue strip really hot and tacky. Best wishes RB

Thanks, I am happy to be corrected. Regards RB