Roger Blassberg

Thinking aloud; if the suspension has been lowered, there is a lessened tendency to roll due to the lower centre of gravity, so the ARB could be reduced in diameter. An ARB is certainly a compromise as it causes the suspension on one side to have an effect on the other in roll (but not in pitch), so if that effect can be reduced it's all to the good. Best wishes RB

Assume 1 bar=14.5 lbf/sq.in., so 11 bar(g) = 159.5 lbf/sq.in. above atmospheric. Best wishes RB

er.... maybe not. It will tell you if there is a continuity fault with the knock sensors (ie broken wires or such-like) but I don't believe that it will detect such things as incorrect through-bolt torque. Nick, I went through this about a year ago. It turned out to be a cracked knock sensor. Your are probably aware that there are 2 of these, one on the front bank of cylinders and one on the back. The front one is difficult to get at. There is a bolt through each one, holding it to the block. This must be tightened to precisely 15lb.ft. - too loose and it won't hear the detonation, too tight and it will break. The contact surface must be scrupulously clean. They are not cheap - the pair cost about £125. I still get some pinking, even on 97 RON petrol, but the sensors do what they are supposed to - sense it and pull back the timing. I have heard it said that a faulty cam position sensor can interfere with the operation of the knock sensors; does anyone have an opinion on that?? Does the engine run with a faulty CPS and is it reported by VAG-COM/1551?? Best wishes RB

I believe that there is a plate at the flywheel end that needs to be removed to get at a few of the bolts - not difficult. And do the bolts up rather as you would a cylinder head, i.e. from one side to the other and progressively tighter. Best wishes RB

The pistons are kept out by the threaded bar inside the caliper - that's why the piston has to be wound back in, not just pushed. Once the handbrake has been adjusted so that the actuator is just sitting on the caliper endstop with the lever fully released, it should not need further adjustment during the life cycle of the pads. Best wishes RB

He's just trying to keep his daily post average up....... But he's right. Best wishes RB

Sounds like valve guides and/or seals, which will explain oily plugs. Best wishes RB

The first fan is driven by the enormous-great electric motor behind it. The belt runs from the first to the second fan. You should be able to change the belt without taking the front off of the car; it's a fiddle to be sure - (my goodness, I've started talking Irish !!). The first fan should run even if the belt to the second fan is broken. If it doesn't, there is an electrical fault; the thermostatic switch in the side of the radiator, down in front of the battery, is the first suspect. Alternatively, the drive motor, or the fan control unit (which sits towards the back of the engine bay near to the washer bottle). Or a fuse. I'm sure that you don't need to be told, but I'll tell you anyway; "VR6 engines are very intolerant of being overheated". There. You now have no excuses. The heater matrix is generally accepted to be a horrible job; some say that it can be done without stripping the dashboard out, but I am sceptical that it can be done satisfactorily and without setting up all sorts of future rattles and squeaks. Best wishes RB

Henny, could you please post a link to C&R ? Thanks Best wishes RB

Dave, No, afraid not. One of these days the good one will fail or get lost and there's going to be a very difficult situation.......... Best wishes RB

It's just that a new set of pistons may cost many hundreds of pounds if you have to get them independently of the block. This may alter your decision back to the one on eBay. Incidentally, you can't use 2.8 litre pistons - they are 1mm too small. Best wishes RB

Hmm. If your old engine failed catastrophically through overheating, your pistons will have been well and truly cooked. Are you getting "new" ones with the block? And what was the cause of the overheating in the first place? Best wishes RB

ABV is the VW engine code for the 2.9 litre Corrado VR6; yes, it will go straight in. Having looked at the eBay photo, it looks as though the inlet manifold may have taken a knock so it would be worth swapping that with your original. Head and block?? What happened? A catastrophic timing gear failure or a grand overheating seizure? Sounds like it's unlikely to yield much return. Best wishes RB

You are unlikely to get a warranty on the 2.8 AAA are you ? I assume that you have all the ancilliaries to complete the 2.9 ABV - what damage was done to your original engine? My advice is to find out as much as you can about the history, mileage etc of the ABV, and then buy it if it seems reasonable. If inspection shows it to be necessary and if funds allow, change the chains etc before fitting it. Even the Buy Now price seems fair. You may be able to recoup something for your old engine unless it was completely shattered. Best wishes RB

yes, took it out and gave it a stern look. It has been ok ever since, so maybe just a loose contact. Thanks all. Best wishes RB

there's a sticker near to the fuel pipes on the pulley end Best wishes RB

Yes, it will look even better when you get the wheels the same on both sides...... (only jealous) Best wishes RB

At the risk of returning to the original question.......... :roll: I have black mats with a beige interior, and it looks alright, especially with green stitching around the edges to match the body colour (the car's, not mine). But........ it's all a MATter of taste. Best wishes RB

Apologising for my ignorance - "Pepipoo"?????? By the way, the Honest John article was just great. Best wishes RB

Yes at least some of the parts can be bought from other sources. But my attitude is that this is such a fundamental job that it's best to have the genuine articles. Especially if you are having the work done by a garage, the saving you may make using pattern parts is relatively small. Best wishes RB

The tool is made by Hazet, and I bought one from VAG with no trouble (Wayside in St. Albans), about £18. Nick, if you want I'll see if they still sell it - a nice metal one with a plastic handle. The OE all-plastic one has the durability of a chocolate fireguard Some time ago, someone here was talking about making them out of 22mm copper water pipe - the same enterprising chap who makes door handle repair kits?? Best wishes RB

OK, I have now realised that I have a repeat of last summer's problem. Whenever the ABS warning light is on, there is also a failure of headlights, wipers and heater blower, so it's related to the operation of the load relief relay/circuitry. I replaced the relay (position 4) last year and the problem seemed to be cured, but since the hot weather returned it's playing up again! It seems to occur totally at random, eventually clears and stays ok until switched off. So the impending MOT will be something of a nail-biter... Best wishes RB

Well, those prices look good to me too - except that duplex chain. I think the clutch, genuine article, can be had for a bit less if you LUK around... Best wishes RB

I was standing waiting to use the airline at the local garage at the weekend; in front of me was a lady with a Mk 3 Golf Estate. The air machine was the type where you set the pressure you want, connect the line to the tyre valve and it adjusts the pressure, up or down, then beeps at you. I noticed that the lady had set her front tyres at 19 psi and was about to drive off, so I said to her that I was sure she had under-inflated her tyres; she said, no, that's what the little sign on her fuel cap said. So we had a look. And sure enough she had mis read 1.9 bar as 19 psi. The sticker value was written only in bar, the airline only in psi !!!! She had dangerously low tyre pressures, by about 32%, due to a common misunderstanding, enough to cause a serious or fatal accident in an extreme situation. The purpose of this is not to make fun of lady drivers, but to ask you to make sure that ALL the people you know are aware of this potential hazard and to be very careful when adjusting tyre pressures with unfamiliar equipment. It is of course everyone's responsibility to know their car and maintain it correctly, but surely ignorance shouldn't be a capital offence........ Best wishes RB

The ABS warning light is sometimes staying on on startup, especially first thing in the morning. If I turn off and then restart, it goes out and stays out although sometimes it takes several goes before that happens. Even if the light were to stay on, I get a kick from the brake pedal. Am I right to assume from that that the ABS pump is working and that the warning light is coming on due to an intermittent sensor or wiring fault? I'll have it put on the analysis, but I wondered if anyone has thoughts to share. Best wishes RB