Roger Blassberg

Thanks Kev, just to be absolutely sure, though, if anyone can quote the part numbers I would be grateful. Best wishes RB

The time has come to replace front discs and pads due to general wear, so I am looking at upgrading the existing 280mm set-up with 288mm. Can anyone tell me the part numbers of the calipers, carriers and hoses please? If anyone has these surplus to requirements, please PM me; (request also under "Parts wanted") Best wishes RB

Yes, sorry Mod Sir. Quiet afternoon, but no excuse. Best wishes RB

ooooohh, Matron!! Best wishes RB

Has the battery been tested and proven to be fully charged and in top condition? If not absolutely conclusively proven, try jump-lead starting from your car; if that works, the Mk2 Golf battery is suspect. If the earth strap to the block is ok and properly terminated at both ends, maybe it is the live feed to the starter/solenoid, or its battery terminal connection that is loose or corroded. You say that the starter was recently replaced - was that with a new/reconditioned unit, or just a second-hand one that may be defective? Try turning on the parking lights (position 1 on the switch) before cranking the engine; if they, and the dashboard lights, die almost completely when you try to start it, then the battery or its terminal connections are suspect. If they don't dim appreciably but the starter is sluggish, it points to the starter motor or its own terminal connection. (The main headlights themselves would be cut anyway by the load relief relay during cranking). Good luck - I heard that it was very cold in Scotland last night, so you need a tip-top battery/starter motor. Best wishes RB

Yes, it always gives me pleasure. Best wishes RB

Steady now !! Not so much of the "Old". Best wishes RB

Look in the Parts for Sale section; Dinkus has one for £120 (plus my commission...) Best wishes RB

Cue "Oilman" Best wishes RB

Yes, mine is a rattler when cold, a bit of piston slap I think. It goes away after a minute or so. Definitely not tappets as the complete head is almost brand new. Oil consumption used to be a bit worrying, but since going over to 15W40 Magnatec from 10W40 Syntha it has dropped to about 3000 miles per litre. I have now bought a 20 litre drum of Chevron 15W40 (less than £18 from Costco, fully compliant with the appropriate VW specification) and will use that at the next few oil changes. Best wishes RB

...but does he let his Mummy drive it ?? Best wishes RB

...and talking of peanuts; I am told by an eminent authority that the black plastic exterior trim on your car can be cleaned effectively and cheaply using peanut butter!! Apparently you spread it on, rub it in, wipe it off and hose down, leaving a clean surface. (Dont use the crunchy variety, and definitely don't put it in your sandwiches afterwards). Best wishes RB

That's the price for the part number quoted above. I did specify to my intermediary that the car is RHD, and assume that this info was passed on. Best wishes RB

If it fits, it will have the capacity to charge the battery better whilst running all your electrical equipment at the same time. It will still be rated at the same nominal 12 Volts, so it shouldn't do any harm to anything. Best wishes RB

Thanks Chris, I'll give it a go. Best wishes RB

How do I get the handbrake handle cover off so that I can get at the cable adjusters? Best wishes RB

I have just spoken to a contact in Germany who in turn has been on to his local VAG parts dept. The price for the panel and gauges is currently 112.52 Euros, including VAT, and apparently it is available still. Best wishes RB

Thanks Bruno for your suggestion; I really don't think that this is the problem, though. The discs are brand new. I'm going to check that there is no play in the bearings this weekend; maybe it's time to look at new calipers. Best wishes RB

It would be a good idea to replace the hub/strut bolts and nuts with new ones. Best wishes RB

Could it be a slipping clutch........? Best wishes RB

I have replaced discs, pads, bearings etc., very recently. All is working well, including handbrake operation. The guide pins are sliding freely. BUT, I still can't get rid of the annoying brake squeal when on the move, almost like a high-pitched whistle, which disappears as soon as I put my foot on the brake pedal. I put copper grease on the back plates of the pads and on the guiding surfaces of the caliper carriers. So far as I can tell, the brakes are releasing fully, but there is obviously a very light contact between pad and disc somewhere. Is this the preliminary to seizing caliper syndrome? Having read various threads recently it seems as though some people are going through hell trying to get a firm pedal after putting Mk 4 calipers on, so maybe I'll replace with standard calipers if it comes to it. All comments gratefully received. Best wishes RB

I didn't lower it, but it is a bit stiffer than usual 4 cyl. Passats being a 16V GT ('94, LHD supplied im Germany, same suspension as VR6), and the back can get a bit wayward in the downhill/braking/heavily loaded scenario. Best wishes RB

Yes be carefull with altering spring and damper rates and also ride heights; you can totally mess up the operation of the rear brake regulator valve. A Passat Estate has a very much greater rear overhang than a Corrado and a higher potential rear axle load as a result of this and its being a heavier anyway. Once one of those baby's gets it into its head that the back is going faster than the front, especially when braking downhill, you need to be quick to catch it. ("The Voice of Experience" has spoken). Strictly speaking, you need to tell your insurer that you have altered the suspension. Best wishes RB

Yes it does look upside down to me too. It's quite difficult to get the straps out - there's a conical non-return connector and if you try to force it out it will enlarge the hole. Cut them off and fit new ones, they are quite cheap. Best wishes RB

Well, overfilling can lead to seals getting blown in the extreme situation, and also catalytic convertor damage if oil gets to it. Of course it depends on how much over you filled it and how long it stayed overfilled - not long if you are losing oil at the rate you describe... As Kev said earlier, check the consumption over a few thousand miles before getting too worried. By the way, what oil are you using? I now use 15-40, a bit thicker than the recommended 10-40 but it has cut my oil consumption very significantly to about 2500 miles per litre. The Chevron stuff complies with VW spec and you can get it in 20 litre drums from Costco for about £20. Best wishes RB