Skimask

Nice one Kev! I know people want to put up BHP figures at max..when they aren't accurate. Dialling in allowances for drivetrain is false. To get some proper BHP increases why don't the figures reflect BHP at wheels before and after the mod?

Hey Louie, Just by chance I compared my original 15" wheels (205*50*15) with my 16" (205*45*16) this morning. The tyres are the same make -and the 16's are about 7mm (radius) larger, give or take a couple of mm for tread wear on the old 15's. I dont know iffitting 40's would make the total wheel size the same!

At one time cars had proper gutters - and the rain cascade just didn't happen!!

Cheers Guys! I think I'll buy a real cheap set of springs for the moment. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep the car at the moment, and don't have the bucks to renew the suspension. The existing has been on the car for about 4 years. Thanks guys.

Unfortunately, Venom only do sets od springs...damn. My buddy commented "I bet I know where the spring broke"......that's when I remembered the Council had jusr fitted speed bumps and hadn't painted them - no signs on the verge or nothing. I saw them at the last minute and hit the brakes. My buddy was sitting beside me, no seat belt on - I think his head hit the dash then the windscreen..He S**T himself big time. We still laugh about it yet.

Drat...its MOT time and the car failed on a broken spring. The existing springs are lowered (40mm I think). The problem is most suppliers only sell them in sets of 4. Does anybody know where I can buy a pair of lowered front springs for a 91 16V? Maybe some of you most excellent members who are in the automotive trade could give me some pionters :lol:

The best bet would be to do some research on both engines\gearboxes. Probably best 2 options are (a) fitting a conversion plate so the Scoob engine would mate to the gearbox. Problems arise with flywheel sizes input shaft, not least the conversion plate which would have to be made probably as a 1 off. The other option (b) is to change engine and transmission, but then you have problems getting driveshafts to fit, if there are any! also Mounting the combined unit to the engine bay and ensuring everything lines up. At the end of the day, the conversion may not be safe or driveable. Alternatively, You would probably be better buying a cheap scoob with blown engine, replace the unit. Sell it for much bucks - and buy another Corrado. :wink:

[ski you cant knock a good dump valve, one of the best noises in the world ] Yeah just like the old Volvo F10 tractor units.every time they braked. The noise isn't something new. Dumping boost is like the LED washer jets..totally useless.

Bought Autotrader last week, there were at leat 50 Scooby WRX's (never mind the 'normal' ones) and only 2 corrados. It kinds of says it all really. Where I live there are 2 scoobys almost identical, both have bought dump valves. Every time they pass my house they push the revs and change gear as they pass the house, just to make the hissing niose. That says a lot really, they have a bit of an inferiority complex about them.

Hi Coullstar, It didn't make any difference to the noise. But that may be due to me having a supersprint exhaust( more or less straight through anyway). I don't know what it would do to an OEM exhaust. Performance wise it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference either! I think the original downpipe just cut out some of the frequencies before going to the next exhaust section.

Hi coullstar, I had the same problem, just didnt like forking out the £140 for a Vw one. I got the down pipe from a G60 at the scrappies, cut off the 3 bolt manifold and got my buddy to weld a bit of pipe (just to give it a nice round bit). Then its just a case of buying a section of pipe from the motor factors and clamping it between the down pipe and your existing exhaust. Its held for the last 3 years! When i got the altered downpipe back from my buddy, I flooded the inside with High Temp paint, That's probably why its lasted so long! My car doesn't need a catalyst, don't know about your one though.

If the plugs are dripping oil, then that may cause higher cylinder pressures. Because the oil will seal the compression rings, giving a higher than normal reading.

Aint sure about sizes, but I bought a new wing for my 91 corrado, and the dealer checked my VIN number for an 'L' in it. I gather if the VIN has an L then its the earlier model, don't know about later ones though, should,ve asked!!!

White smoke...yeah its Redex. We used to pour it onto the tarmac and burn rubber on the stuff.....The amount of smoke it produced was unreal. Even the police were called out at one time, just plead ignorance...wasn't us gov!

Hi Guys, Its a relatively easy job, better to try and clean the underside before starting as it is quite messy. Once the car is up on axle stands you canget into it better. 1. Drain the oil, and replace the sump plug. Remove the lower flywheel cover (2 bolts) 2. remove the 10mm bolts around the sump around 20 of them IIRC. 3 Remove the oil pump - 2 bolts and thats really it! 4 Clean out the sump (if not renewing). fit new pump and gasket, and then the sump. The only really tricky part is trying to get the bolts on the flywheel side started, as they are offset, its not easy getting them onto the correct thread. 5. Torque up the sump bolts (cant remember the figure) and refill with oil, better with another filter as well. 6, I usually remove the High Tension coil lead and crank the engine for a few minutes to get the oil around the engine and filter. Refit the HT lead and start it up!

Hi Dan, I'd already bought another oil pump, so I just fitted the new one. The blockage was my own fault though..I wasn't carefull enough in taping up the cylinder block when scraping the carbon off the piston heads! :( Some of the carbon got into the sump. The oil pressure readings on the new pump weren't too different from the old one, just that the pressure shot up once over 2000 revs. On the old blocked pump it was a bit sluggish.

Steve, It may be worth your while visiting Halfords, They do an oil pressure gauge for around £29. At least you'll know if there is a problem with oil delivery, or dodgy wiring. My problems with the buzzer were due to low oil pressure!!! At least its not a lot of outlay for some peace of mind!!! My oil pressure problems were caused by the gauze on the oil pump pick up pipe being blocked.

Cheers guys! I was considering the upgrade to existing for 2 reasons (a) No Cat and (B) my Corrado has no sunroof (making a stiffer bodyshell). An upgrade wouldn't be too expensive or too much problem doing it myself.I wouldn't like to do anything with the 16Valve, I still don't like thrashing to to get it to move. A G60 - mmm maybe! The VR6 I've never tried, but it seems to be more 'relaxed'. Have you noticed driving a Corrado, that every man and his dog wants to race, I can't seem to overtake anyone, without them accelarating as I'm passing. All in all, a Corrado is an awesome looking car I dont think anything comes close, if I'd wanted something thats fast and a hissing dump valve I'd have gone for a Scoob! However, I probably will go down the route of buying a VR6, If I can find a decent one. Thanks for the input though!!

Hi steve, See the pic attached, on my 16V the front switch is white, and the rear is Brown, also note the colour of the wiring to them. I also attached a new connector to make sure it's getting a good connection. I had a similar problem!

Hi Folks, A quick question for you guys, I currently have a 1991 16V C, and considering going for a newer model, a VR6. As the VR6's have catalytic converters, I've considered fitting a VR6 unit to my existing car, thus eliminating the requirement for a cat. If I buy a newer car, a standard VR6 , I believe a 'cat bypass' can be fitted. Does this eliminate the cat or just works alongside the existing one? Any thoughts on this??

Hi goofrado, On mine the yellow wire is connected to the front switch. The switch on mine is whjite (the rear one is brown). My 16V has started beeping again, I have checked the oil pressure, but the readings are ambiguous. I have tried on this forum to get some accurate oil pressure readings! I guess to be on the safe side I'm going to change the oil pump, at least it'll give me some piece of mind!

Hi folks, I've fitted the white oil pressure sensor and it doesn't beep any more! I checked the oil pressure and it seems to be OK. The readings are: Air Temp 19 DegC oil temp 104 DegC Water Temp 90 DegC On 15W/40 Magnatec oil, with new oil filter. 850 RPM - 20PSI 2000RPM- 40PSI 3000RPM- 50PSI 4000RPM- 50PSI (approx) Hopefully the readings are as they should be!!

Cheers Guys, I've just picked up the white switch from the dealers and awaiting the brown one, I'll fit it tomorrow depending on the weather. While I was in I also bought a new Offside (drivers) front wing - £140 I think its a good deal!!!

What if it rains and it shorts out ...fire. Also in an accident same result.

Cheers KVwloon! Thats what I'm looking for, I'll just have to get it up to temp and then fit the oil pressure gauge and see what reading I get!