RS VR6

The 138c your getting is abnormally high. Mine never got any higher than 117c...and thats on a 32c day and with the AC on. Here is something you can try. Remove the oil temp sending unit on the oil cooler and clean it. If there is corrosion on the sensor...it could vary the temprature up to 10c. Here is the original thread on Vortex. They also mention the oil cooler could be either bad or clogged. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3271547 As for your coolant hose busting...any part has the potential for premature failure. My secondary water pump and coolant temp sensor both failed within three years of purchase.

The dual idler is not a direct fit for the V9. If you want to make 15psi...I would go with a V1, intercooler, lower compression...or maybe a turbo. :lol:

Have you checked the light switch yet? Its is what turns on the dash lights. 8)

http://www.eurosportacc.com/oilcooler.htm 299 usd = 152gbp

If you know how to machine parts or can find one that does...you can always get an adapter plate made. Denon and Autotech are distrubutors for Schrick in North America...lol it might be cheaper to buy and ship from here versus the UK. :?

Take it out and clean it along with the throttle body. See if it fixes it.

Vacuum pump bad? Check the fuse?

Well...its because FK made the grill for the VR6.

Nope not going to happen. Your going to have to modify the VR grill. Mattig made a G60 badgeless grill...not sure if its the same as a 16v. The only way your going to get a VR grill to fit right...is to get the VR rad support. :drinking:

1.8t's are good for midrange...but they run out of breath in the top end. The power on a 1.8t drops after about 5500 rpms. The tiny KO3 just can't produce power after that. When I was stock I'd pull on 1.8ts(even remapped) all day long...in the top end.

Maybe a bad fan control module. Also check the plug and see if any of the plastic is melted around the terminals.

The bearing caps will be loads of fun to put back on. On yeah...while your at it...replace the cam sensor trigger wheel while your at it. Sometimes thay go bad after removing the cams. Mine was causing a CPS code after the motor was back together. Its a cheap part at 17usd...why risk it.

Just get the red overlays from Empire GFX. Much simpler and not as messy as spray tint. http://www.empiregfx.com/shop/home.php?cat=289

I would go to the point of purchase and throw those parts at them.

Check the drainage hole next to the air intake on the raintray.

You can remove it if you want...there is no advantage to removing it.

Your foam is so nice! :D

I have all three of the VF mounts and it still it the hood. I still had to "modify" the support rail.

Thats lame...make the other insurance company pay for it. This idiot hit you...and the insurance company wants to write it off? Get a lawyer. Same thing happened to my friend two years ago...he was in the exact same type of accident. Some retard hit him at a stoplight. The insurance company wanted to salvage his car. He mentioned that he was going to get a lawyer...and the insurance company fixed his car. :D I'd fight it. So you lose your car because some moron hits you? Screw that!

The 205's will be just fine. That shop is lame. 205 40 17 on 17x7.5.

The RH's look spot on!! I have some 301's...with an extra pair of 8.5in lips...but I'm across the pond. :mad:

I remember being able to get the paint in the factory colors from the dealer. It came with two cans...one the actual color of the car and the other can, the clearcoat.

t'was a joke people.

Final drive? Will you even hit fifth by the time you reach the end of quarter mile? :D

150 shot of nitrous.