RS VR6

Any progress on my vent Steve? :norty:

Heres a diecast one on Ebay.de http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Corrado-VR6-1-18- ... dZViewItem I want one so bad!! Anybody have any leads?

The FSI in the orange car just ran the motor. Its still on the Digi 1 engine management. In the pic you can still see the dizzy on the motor. The whole point of the "FSI" is the engine management and fuel delivery system.

To check if your thermostat is opening...when fully warmed up, the lower radiator hose should be hot...if its cold...chances are the t-stat is stuck closed. To check the T-stat out of the car...drop it into a pot of boiling water and see if it opens.

Make sure you use a bit of lube on the ring.

Its right above the coilpack, next to the secodary waterpump held on by one hex bolt.

It depends on where the MAF location is. The early SC kits were post charger MAFs...that did not run anykind of pressure relief valve. So some people put a BOV TO protect the SC's from compressor surge...a BOV would be put in place to bleed off the excess pressure. The more modern setups (VF and C2) use the pre charger MAF setup and run diverter valves.

Heres something from the Corrado Club of America site. This is the method I'm eventually going to try (the second method)...after all its free. I haven't tried it yet...well because in So Cal...we don't get much rain. Lol...I don't even have wipers on the car anymore. http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/detail_faq.CFM?FAQID=78

Normally the driver side has the longer blade.

Check and see if its leaking oil around the sender. Another possibility may be the oil pump is going out...maybe.

Heres how to jump the temp switch: by animaniac from VWVortex. "Sounds like a bad fan temp switch which is located in the radiator, this is the only switch which turns the fans on and off. The ignition doesnt feed the fan or the fan temp switch, the fan temp which has a constant 12v live feed, and when the switch senses the correct fan turning on temp it allows the 12v to flow to the low speed and then the high speed. Unplug connector on the rad fan switch and you will see 3 terminals, one will be a 12 volt positive feed and the other to run to the fan. if you bridge the outside terminals the fan will come on either low or high speed, and if the one of the outisde terminals is bridged to the middle terminal the same will happen the fan will come on and will be the opposide fan speed to the other terminal. with the connector on the fan switch unpluged, connect the battery, if the fan doesnt come on then there you have it its a bad fan switch and this is conformed when you plug the fan switch connector back in and the fans come on." To check if your thermostat is opening...when fully warmed up, the lower radiator hose should be hot...if its cold...chances are the t-stat is stuck closed.

You can always jump the switch. The other thing you can check is the connector that plugs into the fan itself. When you unplug it you'll see four connectors. The left and right (large) negative and positive and the upper and lower (smaller) connectors. The upper connector switches on the low speed fan and the lower one switches on the high speed. See if the plastic around the lower connector (high speed) is melted away. I had an issue with a poor connection with the high speed fan connector, that when the high speed fan came on...it actually caused my car to sputter and hesitate. The plastic around the conector was completely melted away. I ended up replacing the entire plug along wth the connectors. Not my actual pic...just for reference.

I thought he mentioned that he's going turbo or has a turbo. Raising compression on a turbo motor is normally something you don't want to do. For turbo you'd probably want to bring compression down to 9:1 or lower depending on boost level. If your running low boost stay with stock compression.

That sucks, your car is a beauty... Thanks...I'm getting another door. So hopefully soon it'll be painted and installed.

There should be guys that do "paintless" dent removal. The ones here usually charge between 80-100usd per panel.

Be aware that the Mk4 headgasket will bump your compression up, from 10:1 to 10.5:1.

Hit n runs suck...I was left with a pizza size dent on my door last weekend.

A bad igniton switch will cause all kinds of strangeness. When it went bad on my mk3...my radio stopped working and my idle would hunt up and down. Its a fairly cheap part at 15usd...so I got one and replaced it. It was cake on a mk3...but a pain on the Corrado.

The MAF will not always throw a code when bad. A faulty igniton switch in my Golf caused an erratic idle when it went bad. Over time and hundreds of times it was cranked to start the car, the terminals will become worn and have poor contact with the ignition. Since you said it got replaced...you can probably rule that out. From the bad O2's that I've seen...it just causes the car to run rich. The easiest way to rule out the guesswork, is to get your hands on another ISV and MAF. Try one then the other. The car should idle (roughly) with the ISV unplugged...well at least mine did. :drinking: Also try unplugging the Throttle Position Sensor (Plug on the TB). The car should still idle...if the MAF is bad...the car should stall (not 100% sure though).

Have you tried another MAF? If the MAF is bad...no amount of cleaning is going to help. The MAF could be the problem...eliminate that probability by switching it from another Corrado. See if you can borrow one for a few days. Mine was doing something similar last week. The idle would randomly "hunt" and when crusing, I can feel the engine sputtering. I switched to a spare MAF I had...and so far the issue hasn't returned. Another thing that can cause strange idle issues is the ignition switch. Check your fuel pump (see if you have consistant fuel pressure) and fuel filter. An extremely dirty fuel filter can cause sputtering issues. Maybe the Crank Sensor....normally if thats bad...the car woun't even start.

Check the voltage on your alternator? You may have bad or corroded grounds...check them too. The ISV clicked when I did the output tests on my Vag Com.

Check your Idle Stabilizer as well. I had a similar issue a few days ago...where the car was sputtering and had a random jumping idle. I switched out my MAF, and so far the sputtering is gone. Maybe try cleaning your MAF, throttle body, and Idle Stabilizer...those are free to do. :)

I really want to run my car on a Maha before and after the cams...but the runs are so expensive. The pre and post runs is about the same cost as the labor to install the cams. :roll:

It also depends on the type of dyno used...and the dyno operator. The Mustang, Clayton and the Dynojet...the latter being the more popular will all give different readings. The Dynojet will normally use a 15% correction factor vs. the 25% for the Clayton. I've run my car on both. The Clayton ran super low numbers. Dyno numbers can often be confusing, just due to the fact that people are using different ones to begin with. Here in the states, we just about always quote Wheel Horespower numbers. It makes it a bit less confusing. Like the original post...it has the wheel hp, then the flywheel hp and last the corrected hp. You've already gone through two number corrections from the original wheel hp number. The only dyno that I've heard of that accurately measures BHP is the Maha. It measures the drivetrain loss on deceleration. http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/site/dyno/main.htm The R32 guys ran the dyno a few times and they say its pretty dead on. If my engine is still in the car on the 20th...I'm going to run the car on a Dynojet.

French spec, with black painted housings and clear Lamin X. When I had the Rieger and Inpros. From my experience...the Ipro lighting is poor compared to the Euro ones.