Jump to content

BigTartanJudge

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    1,813

  • Joined

Posts posted by BigTartanJudge

  1. Posted

    The chrome badges are no longer available......I know because I bought the last 2 in the UK ordered from VW UK in Milton Keynes, and one turned up broken, so I got that one for free and glued it back together. There is no more in Germany either.

     

    You can still buy OEM ones on eBay for a price and can spray them silver, won't look as good as OEM chrome, and as mentioned above you can get replica ones from a few companies.

  2. Posted

    Hey all,

     

    I currently have a set of black half-leather Recaros in my rado fited to electrically height-adjustable Recaro subframes. I was just wondering if there was any way of adjusting the height so the seats are on the lowest setting WITHOUT having to pull up the carpets and plug them into the fusebox. I have a loom already, so can I do summat with a charged up battery etc ? Just don't have the time at the moment to mess aroound and get them plugged in etc.

     

    Cheers,

     

    BigTartanJudge

  3. Posted

    For your info, the half-leather Porsche seats including the retrimmed rear bench, were in my blue G60 when I bought it (I have pics), the guy who had who owned it previously had bought the seats from Renshaw, then I sold the Porsche seats to Peter Munns about two months after I got my blue G60. Then I got my cloth electric Recaros (now sold and replaced with half-leather electric recaros).

     

    Still a sweet car, whoever had previously owned the seats, but whichever way you look at it ya'll, they are definetely my old seats ;-)

  6. Posted

    AFAIK,

     

    You need S2, RS2 or custom pistons to lower the comp ratio, as when fitting the 16V head the placing a 16V head on an 8V G60 PG block lowers the CR approx 1.8 Points. Since the G60 engine already has a CR of 8:1 then dropping that CR 1.8:1 points lower will bring it to about 6.2:1,definitely too low for a 16V G60. Now for the conrods, you can use your stock/OEM PG G60 rods but it is recommended that you use PL 16V Rods + custom (or S2/RS2) pistons due to the fact that your rod ratio using the PG rods will be too short.

     

    Thicker metal head gaskets are used to lower the CR if you start with a 16V lump as base engine. Also, I think Audi S2/RS2 pistons drop straight in and are cheaper (about £80 each new, set of second-hand ones for about £100-£150) than getting custom ones (Wiseco, JE etc. - about £450-£500). Have also found another couple of sources for the 16VG60 integration kits (RP-tuning includes custom manifold and pipework) [these kits are VERY similar to the BahnBrenner kits, but are still in stock and readily available, and around the same price]:

     

    http://www.rp-motorsport.de/en/g-lader/ ... werkit.htm

    http://www.orz-motorsport.com/16VG60%20engine.html

     

    Also, here is a "How to build a 16V-G60" guide from VW Vortex and Fourtitude forums, and also Kompressor Kanada and another guide:

     

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1784212 (VERY GOOD GUIDE)

    http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread ... 212&page=7 (VERY GOOD GUIDE TOO)

    http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/howto/16vG60.htm (GOOD GUIDE)

    http://mysite.verizon.net/laurin99/g60.htm (NOT BAD, BUT PART NUMBERS ARE ALL VW MOTORSPORT ITEMS, SOME NOT AVAILABLE ANYMORE AND ALL VERY EXPENSIVE, BUT BASICS CORRECT)

     

    The best resource of info on how to build this engine is probably these guide above and the Yahoo discussion group which I suggest you join up for help:

     

    16vg60 group on yahoo http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/16vG60 (FOUNTAIN OF KNOWLEGE)

     

    As far as manifolds go, it is easier to source and subsequently modify an Audi S2 inlet manifold (and I think it looks better when fitted, as doesn't encroach over the top of the 16V head), or you can buy a custom one (these are basically custom-built, CNC-machined copies of the Audi S2 intake anyways, with one runner cut-off and overall length shortened). There are several sources of these, including Roma Tuning, SLS-tuning RP-Motorsport (mentioned above) etc. These are all used in the EU.

     

    It's also worth speaking to individuals (especially John Mitchell from JMR, as he self-built a 16V-G60 rado in the past, not sure if he still has it ?, but he is on here as a member though) on various forums who have had experience of actually building these engines, as they will know the best soloutions, and which people at companies to direct you to to source parts and get better technical advice than I can offer. All the stuff I have posted is info I have collected over the years on building these engines when I was thinking about doing it, but I decided in end to stay 8V G60 for now.

     

    Hope this helps answer some questions mate.

  7. Posted

    The reason VOSA, DVLA and police get annoyed when they see plates like this is that the ANPR (Automatic number plate recognition) cameras set-upat side of roads or in police traffic units apparently cannot read the number-plate as the spacing is non-standard.

     

    They are VERY picky about this, well up here they are anyways. Really annoys me too as I got stopped for not having a front-plate (was in window as the sticky pads had lost sticky-ness due to cold weather), and was still perfectly visible. Also got told that it was a non-standard material (pressed alloy, but not german-flagged and was still reflective with correct height, width and spacing of digits), but they weren't interested. Got a £30 fine and told to change them within 7 days.

     

    Also got told that if I got stopped again with them, they would inform the DVLA that I was misrepresenting my plate and they would take it off me and risk a £1500 fine...........

     

    Nice rado though mate !

  9. Posted

    Do a search on here for 16VG60 or 16vg60 mate and you will get all the info that you require. It's not a cheap option and requires a lot of specialist bits to be collected or integration kit purchased (a popular method is to buy the BahnBrenner motorsport [bBM] 16VG60 integration kit, which basically supplies a lot of the necessary parts to convert a 16V lump, together with the 8V G60 lump into a 16VG60 engine, they are based in the USA but even with the customs duty, as the $ is so weak at the moment, it is very good value). Also I think G-Werks over here imports BBM parts as well, however, I think they are out of stock of the 16VG60 integration kits. In addition, I have heard these are going out of production soon (if not already) so I would get in quick and get one whilst they are still available in the States. As of the 7th of January there were only around 6 kits left in the USA..........and they have no plans, AFAIK, to have their suppliers produce any more.

     

    If you use the 8V G60 as your base engine, it's easier and you need less parts but you do new special forged, low compression pistons or Audi S2 ones. You will also need Scirocco 16V upper and lower intake manifolds (very difficult to find, and command a high price as they are so rare), or a modified Audi S2 intake manifold (easier to find and cheaper). If you use the 16V engine as base engine, you need a hell of a lot more parts and have to lower the compression ratio using a metal head gasket AFAIK.

     

    From BahnBrenner website:

     

    Build Option #1 (G60 As Your Base Engine): No matter what engine platform you start with as your base, the best way is to build up an engine with custom pistons and the correct compression ratio for this boosted application. If you want your base to be the G60 engine platform using the G60 block, rods and crank. You will have to use custom pistons with correctly cut value relief's and the right compression ratio for boost. BBM has these custom pistons in a limited quantity.

     

    Required 16V parts for G60 base engine:

     

    * Custom BBM low compression 16V pistons for use in the G60 block

    * 16V Cylinder head complete

    * 16V Scirocco Intake manifold lower and upper

    * 16V Distributor, complete

    * 16V Distributor Block off plate complete

    * 16V oil pump, complete

    * 16V Secondary shaft and gears complete

    * 16V Timing belt and gears, complete

    * 16V Exhaust Manifold or 16V Header

     

    Build Option #2 (16V As Your Base Engine): If your starting base engine is the 16V platform then you can use a thicker copper head gasket to achieve a lower compression ratio for use with the boost. This is not the best or correct way to generate the proper compression ratio on any engine, although it is a simple and less expensive route. The preferred method on the 16V base engine is to also use custom pistons with the correct compression ratio for this Supercharged system. BBM has these custom pistons in a limited quantity.

     

    Required G60 parts for 16V base engine:

     

    * G60 G-Lader Supercharger or BBM Screw Compressor Supercharger kit

    * G60 G-Lader mounting brackets and belt tensioner complete

    * G-Lader outlet (silencer box) or BBM RSR outlet kit

    * G60 Serpentine / idler pulleys for water pump and alternator

    * G60 AC pump or European water pump pulley

    * G60 Throttle body, complete

    * G60 Fuel Injectors and FPR

    * G60 Idle stabilizer valve (ISV)

    * G60 Digifant1 ECU and engine wire harness

    * G60 Digifant control relay

    * G60 Oxygen sensor

    * G60 Water temperature sensor (blue)

    * G60 CO% potentiometer

    * G60 Relays, fuel pump

    * G60 Intercooler, IC hoses to and from the G-Lader

    * G60 Lower water pump pipe

    * Upper and lower coolant hoses

    * G60 Radiator and fan assembly

     

    This all said, it is still quite an original option for power, as there are not a huge amount around.

     

    Think there are 4 or 5 members on here that either have 1vG60 that they have built themselves / had built for them or are in process of building / getting built. There is also several useful resources on the net, including other forums such as edition38 and clubGTI on of which have members that have 16VG60's or are again getting built. Also do a google search for 16VG60 and you will come up with a lot of good info on several sites, including a Yahoo discussion group on building 16VG60, with heaps of great info, and the good old vwvortex forum based in the US.

     

    Good luck. Here are some links to get you started:

     

    http://www.bahnbrenner.com/media/php/16v.php

    http://www.g-werks.co.uk/Products_Super ... fault.aspx

    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/16vG60/

    http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4831

    http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread ... 975&page=5

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?i ... d=44933573

  15. Posted

    Usually get between 17 and 20 mpg in town. Most I have ever had in town was 22 mpg. Most ever had on open road was 30 mpg, usually average around 25-28 mpg. But then, my G60 is not exactly standard........ :)

  16. Posted

    The bttom line is that all pressed alloy plates are illegal as this is not a BS-approved number plate material, whether they are german-marked, GB or Euro etc.

     

    I was done for having a German-flagged alloy front, wasn't on bumper as stickyness of pads had been lost due to cold wether and also for having a rear plate of illegal / non-BS material (had US-sized rear pressed alloy yellow plate, even though it was reflective, correct height / width of digits and spacing of digits, was still told it was illegal).

     

    I got £30 fine and given 7-days to change plates. If had not changed them and had been stopped again, I was told they would inform the DVLA I was diplaying or misrepresenting a cherished registration and the DOT would then take the right to display the registration off of me.

  19. Posted

    Have had this done to my bumper. The bodyshop that resprayed some exterior bits did this at the same time. AFAIK, they used an angle grinder to cut through the bumper iron work to cut out that area you have marked. It's easier to remove the whole number plate recess and then the mark the corresponding iron-work behind and cut it back too. The bumper won't be as strong but it will retain most of it's structural integrity as long as too much of iron-work isn't removed. I then had the resulting hole replaced by colour-coded mesh. I initially thought that this would look chav (it did when it was first done and was silver) but when it was colou-coded it looks great IMO. I know some people that have done it and then left the hole there not covered by anything, but IMO this is asking for trouble as anything could end up coming through the recess and busting your intercooler.

     

    Hope this helps.

  20. Posted

    Whilst you say you would sell the 16V and get a VR6 you also state you drive 60 miles to work every day, so if you were to use the VR6 as your daily driver and do 60 miles to work every day, I'd say your fuel bill was going to increase somewhat mate ? But if this is not a consideration or important then I'd say go for it.

  24. Posted

    I had a set of these briefly on my G60 rado, although arch-work was going to be needed to stop them rubbing at the back. Also I used redrilled set of Porsche adapters, but best way is to use 2-piece adapters as normal 4x100-5x120PCD (BMW fitment) are not available off the shelf, as the bolt holes overlap.

     

    However, using the 2-peice adapters means your offset will be quite low as the adapters will be 30-40mm thick (ONLY AN ISSUE IF YOU ARE FITTING TO A 4-STUD RADO), meaning even more arch-work is required, and also not sure how comfortable I would be personally using 2-piece adapters, esp. as won't be TUV etc approved.

     

    I have a few sources for 5x100PCD - 5x120PCD adapters, as these are available both off the shelf and custom-made. PM for details if required.

×
×
  • Create New...