Baz2004

Is there any main difference between the early 1.8 KR exhaust setup and the late 2.0 16V ? I know the 2.0 has a cat but would the same exhaust fit both cars? What about the G60 8V exhaust would that fit the 16V KR?

Found the cause fuse number 21 a blue 15 fuse was out. I remember a while back someone put up a link to the fuse board and relays was very handy. Anyone know the link? Or have a copy of the word/Pdf file?

Does anyone know the fuse number that controls the MFA and interior light? Im fairly sure it’s linked with the cigarette lighter socket also. I think it’s around 19 or 20? Does anyone know what’s the correct fuse for this?

I fitted a new loom at the weekend but took it off as I lost control of my dip beam. Does anyone know where I can get a loom that will leave my existing dim beam at 6V? The way most of these looms work is bypassing the control of the light switch in the car and connecting the lights directly to the battery. This improves the main beam by approx 1-2V and full beam also. I checked the the dip beam on a voltmeter (first stage in switch) its up from the typical 6V to the 12V as in main beam. i.e it cuts out the first stage in the switch on the dashboard. I followed the directions as in the kit am i doing something wrong ? What’s the dim-dip resistor you mention? how does disconnecting it allow 6V to pass through to the lights if they are connected directly to the battery?

I know the thing you’re talking about now. I replaced this when I had the cams out not even a yr ago. Its the plastic ring shaped seal right? It does appear to be coming from that area tho.

where’s the camshart oil seal? are they those half moon shaped seals? Im sick of it at this stage, that’s the 3rd Cam cover seal set that’s gone onto it and its still leaking. I even used bonding on this one to seal around the edges once it was on- I was half tempted to bond the cap on also when I saw it leaking again :brickwall:

Having a problem with an oil leak, it looks to be coming from the left side of the head. I think it might be the oil cap, it’s the 3rd one on it and it appears to be worse than ever. I got a new mrk iv cap last week cus my rocker cover was constantly getting messy from oil spitting out from the cap. It’s no longer spilling out onto the RC but it looks to be seeping out on the timing belt side now. I originally thought it was the small moon seal on the RC but after sealing that up with gasket seal it was still leaking. I’ve had this problem a while now last month I replaced the oil sump gasket and sealed the new one back with a decent gasket seal. I also replaced the rocker cover gasket and all associated bits. I also replaced a number of oil switches both on the oil cooler plate and at the back of the head. Its as bad as ever now leaving a mess wherever I park. Can anyone offer suggestions as to what might be the cause of this leak? I have a small pool of oil on the left wishbone and there is a trail of fresh oil down my timing belt covers on the left side of the head. There is also evidence of oil on the cap and RC where the overrun switch is.

Not yet does anyone know what readings I should be looking for ? What to test it with etc?

Is there any way of testing the sensor? Id rather be sure it’s the problem before going to the trouble of replacing the fluid and getting a new bottle.

New cap old tank. Might have a look at the sensor a the weekend.

Replaced the oil recently and im now getting a flashing water light for some reason. Checked the water level and its fine overfilled it a bit even to rule out any low levels. It could be an air lock as the car has been sitting up 2 weeks but after burping it a couple of times when hot the light still comes on. Its coming on about 2 mins after startup and stays on flashing. I’m tempted to drive on with it but is a bit concerning having a flashing light on the dash when driving. Any ideas?

Yeah im thinking 10-15mm H&R spacers with them. I already have the longer bolts from the previous BBS wheels.

Anyone know if the mrk 3 cabby splits go on the corrado? Im fairly sure they are 4X100 but might need spacers with the offset? ET45?

Age and track days ;) - I just hope thats whats causing the problem.

Doubt it new wishbones + bushes went in 6 months ago :)

Yeah the vibration issue put me off the solid mounts before when I was replacing the front mount. The cars had a couple of track days so Im thinking that might have worn the rear mount out. I get a knock and judder on lift off, Im fairly sure its not the front mount as its been replaced recently.

Yeah not much cheaper than VW, if I was paying that kind of money id get a solid one I reckon.

Thought as much, anyone know where id get one of these hydraulic ones?

Anyone know if this engine mount fits the 16V corrado? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Golf-MK-2-Rear ... dZViewItem VW part no : 191199262A

front mount is fairly new - not sure about the other 2 tho.

The car acts like its low on fuel, it could be the fuel pump but its pulling well, no hesitation when accelerating.

Having a slight bit of trouble with my 16V. It’s tends to get a bit jumpy on lift-off over 3000rpm. I’m thinking it could be timing has anyone had a similar problem?

They are a good upgrade, pads don’t come easy or cheap. I have them on my 16V for track days the only trouble I had with them was getting a decent pedal as they take a lot of fluid. I was considering a new 25mm MC but felt it may turn my pedal into an on off switch, and with no ABS it would be more dangerous than some travel. Does anyone know if 15’ steelies will clear these callipers? Will 15s steelies clear G60 callipers

I’ve found the H&Rs very good much better ride quality than FKs

I have a loose heat shield and Im wondering how to secure it as its making rattling over 60. The white plastic clip on it has seemed to break off leaving the bottom part of it loose. The top part is secure up by the inlet manifold/TB. Ive tried a few cable ties and some heat sealant but its still getting loose. I cut it out and took it off a while back but things didn’t run so well with it off and was getting some funny readings on MFA so I put it back, its looser than ever now since it was off.