Baz2004

Got a new rad myself recently made a huge difference to overall temps down 10% - I moved the horns down under the bumper also for a better airflow to the rad.

Problem sorted for now! I adjusted the TB a bit by adjusting the small screw and nut the switch is being clicked in fully now. It seemed to do the trick brought the revs right down to 1000 when idle + warm. It’s a bit jumpy now ill prob have to tweak it a bit, let out the air flow screw a turn or two to keep it balanced. Or I might just get it done next rolling road. Thanks for the suggestions I recently put in a new ISV and Rad so it might have thrown it out a bit.

will do cheers

Yep

I just want to be sure all these switches are working right before I go getting a new ISV

The idle switch is the C switch in the diagram, I replaced this last yr with a GSF switch but I couldn’t remember the VW part no. There were no wiring outputs included just the switch I used a spade terminal to join it to the red and green wire. Are you sure A and B in the pic are the exact same part/switch - Im sure they size and thread is the same but do they have the same function - degree thresholds? - whats the GSF part no on these?

Does anyone have the part nos for the switches attached to the right side of the 1.8 KR cylinder head? Im looking for switches above and below the water flange and the idle control switch model nos.

I Have the idle screw in all the way. Could be a temp sender but it runs at 1100 when cold then 1500 after a few mins. I discounted the ISV yesterday to see what would happen it idled at 600 rpm but cut out every time the revvs went over 1000

With my original one (1989 KR) it was always cutting out when the revvs dropped. The part no on it was worn off so I didn’t know what to replace it with. This latest one I have in the car idles at 1500rpm but no cutting out. Its not as bad but way too noisy in the car with it idling so high in traffic. Im thinking it might not be the right one. If this is the case would it cause such a problem? Part nos I have so far are 035 133 455 F - looks to be replaced with 50-N-009 000 037 906 457 D - ? 2.0 16V? F 50 -N-009 001 - Replaced 2.0 16V ?

Does anyone have the part number for the 1.8 16V ISV? Is this a different ISV to the later 2.0 16V? How about the G60 ISV is this different also?

Cheers mate I reckon its leaking from the top.

Its tricky to see it with everything back together, I didn’t want to go taking it off to find the part no cus its working Ok I think its weeping a bit of oil so I want to replace it. Id rather have the part no going into GSF/VW cus I’ve been given the wrong switches in the past without part nos.

Id start with upgrading the rears to begin with a decent upgrade and do from there - might also be worth replacing the rear bias valve also I found this helped a lot with the recent replacement. That said youll need to bleed them a few times to get a decent pedal. Give it a bleed then do the same a day or two later. Bring up the revvs a bit when bleeding also helps get good pressure when bleeding.

Can anyone help me with the part no on this oil sensor? It’s an early 16V KR 1.8 engine, cant get a part no/details on my version of etka.

I got the switch in GSF! makes me all the more suspicious. As I said it did stop the 3000rpm idle speed but the cutting out is like the signal is being delayed or something. I might try and throw an original switch off a 1.8 16V a friend of mine is breaking see if that helps. If not its prob down the timing.

How does this switch work in 16Vs? I recently replaced it when it broke off, and I’m thinking it may not be the right replacement as the car cuts out now at low revs. When the switch broke the car revved over 3000RPM when idle and this is no longer happening however when in traffic in 3rd and put the clutch in revs drop way under 1000 and the battery light flashes on – sometimes it cuts out sometimes I catch it with 1st gear. I’ve already switched the ISV and it hasn’t improved this issue, is this simply a case of my timing being out?

Before you go fitting a new stat might be worth replacing the bottle lid I had a similar problem with my 16V and it turned out to be a worn o ring on the cap. It can happen from overfilling the water.

Let us know if you put the fan on it wouldn’t mind knowing the effects it has on it.

Threw in a new rad on my 89 valver made a huge difference to water and oil temp the car had the original rad so it was well overdue. Water now sits at 80 and oil doesn’t go over 96 although I am runnin a mocal cooler. Temps dropped a solid 4 degrees all round.

Yeah 130+ is borderline damage, Id imagine 160 is game over.

Fok me mine didn’t even reach that temp when my rad cracked ! was only driving it for 5-10 mins when it happened tho. Does anyone have the part no of the lower temp switch? where does it go on the fan/head/cooler?

idle switch on the throttle body did seem a little dicky alright I have everything jubi clipped up cus I thought it was a vac leak also.

My 16V is revving high when warm; its gets uneven revs ranging from 800-1100 once the oil and water get up to running temp. It’s only when idle I don’t notice it down on power or uneven through the gears. Could it be a fuel mix/lambda issue? When cold it runs fine, the timing is a bit out it can take 2-3 turns to start it usually after 1-2 hrs of being driven. New starter motor ISV Dizzy HTs etc etc

I got one of these for my 16V and it wouldn’t fit RHD cars! IM not sure with VRs but the steering rack was in the way and I needed to get an extra pipe to join it up with the middle box. In the end I just sent it back too much hassle.

I have this on my 16V KR a couple of months now and it does make a slight difference but only 2-3 degrees. I didn’t really have high oil temp beforehand -106-108 max in traffic after giving it some. It has been up to 104 a few times since fitting it in traffic mainly. I got a shock last week when my water light came on flashing I guess it was the stat opening at 80-90 It was prob the first time it opened since fitting the oil cooler. I had to pull into a petrol station and top the water + coolant up. I had a fear when fitting the oil cooler of starving the engine of oil since the stat only opens at 80 - I overfilled it with oil hoping it would even out once the cooler was full. I seemed to have overestimated the levels a bit and my dip is max’d now even with the cooler full of oil! I did notice a slight drop in torque also (16V) with the cooler fitted. The power seems to be more even and the engine runs a bit smoother but the craziness at 4000rpm is not the same. It was a similar drop in torque as when I fitted the 50mm inlet manifold but its not as bad. It ideally suited in valvers where they get driven hard, high revs and abuse – track use is the best use for such an application IMO.