yellowslc

A friend here locally is an APR dealer.. he mentioned that VW has an active recall on certain model year engines due to oil sludging issues. Those K03's aren't the greatest turbo as well. Texas heat eats those! R

simple.. if you own a vr6 currently, turbo it.. if you own a G60.. aba/16V conversion and turbo it. leave the 1.8T's and their oil sludging issues to the mk4 chassis. R

Proper installation! Bumper is simply stunning..

268's just begin to breathe at 5500rpms.. wind it out to 7000 and you'll feel it pull although I wouldn't suggest it with stock valve springs. A friend of mine whom I built an 83mm balanced/blueprinted bottom end, 42mm ported/polished/flowbenched cyl head, 268's, supersprint header, etc etc.. shifts between 7200 and 7500 on a regular basis. Ceramic coated ABV intake (port matched of course), fully ported/ceramic'd lower intake, ceramic coated velocity/ v-dubz.com TB.. car is amazing.. We should have dyno #'s on it within a month. So Kev.. you're next upgrade is a proper cyl head. :D

The first engine to go in will allow me to finish fabrication of the cooling system.. hoses.. etc.. setup the autronic and play around with tuning. If it blows up.. eh.. oh well.. once i am satisfied with my tuning skills, the proper engine will be fitted and the original sold off. I view it as my insurance policy.

cheers.. planning a holiday to UK/Ireland next May.. would definitely like to meet you guys. Phat is being dragged along with us :)

Thanks for the input Sanjay. I dont plan on leaving the car outside nor unattended at any point. The alcantara is UV rated so it should be durable. Will definitely reduce any glare. I'll see how confident the upholstry shop feels with doing it. R

it's going to be a royal pain to fit all of the gear in the car. need some honest opinions on interior bits. headliner/sunroof trim A/B/C pillar trim are for sure going to be recovered in black alcantara should I do the hatch trim panels? the dash? my only concern it with it lifting center console? trying to figure out a good texture blend.. R

ceramic coated bvh.. combustion chambers/valves and exh ports coated JE pistons, manley connecting rod and crank thrust bearings coated crankshaft counterweights polydyn is neat stuff :D

Love the color.. always have.

many thanks for the comments.. none of these photos will ever been seen on vortex.. Phat told me you guys would appreciate them. R

The gear linkage I am prototyping and having machined.. the cables can be found at http://www.bildon.com although I'm 99% certain I know where he is buying them. Estimated power with the "race" engine will be 500+ whp. In theory it should make much more yet while on the track, I'll keep it under 400whp. Autronic allows me to program in boost level per gear.. intregrated traction control, shifiting at WOT w/o removing my foot from the accelerator pedal.. fun stuff. Progress will be slow as the chassis currently isnt here. Look for some serious events the first week of November. R

:twisted:

we had autotech springs fail and trash a $5000 USD engine.. New engine has schrick springs. Not a risk i'd take again. R

some new.. some old pics.

Mark as stated in a PM to you.. If you are saving a loose 2.9 block.. JE 83mm pistons are the way to go. They are suited for the added cyl pressures and heat of forced induction. Check your bore tolerences and we'll discuss from there. A proper big valve head with p/p done with a flow bench combined with schrick 268's/springs is a wise upgrade if you plan to stay n/a for awhile. Otherwise, go get the SC kit now.. get used to the power and then do the cyl head. That is unless you are due for a cyl head rebuild. Vr's are very picky about tolerences, they are only happy if they are within the OEM specifications. R

Agreed, always upgrade to the mk4 style parts. 1750lbs for a complete rebuilt OEM engine? Seems very very inexpensive. R

FYI with oem bushings, even castor is slightly adjustable. The rear pivot bushing's ID is larger than the bolt OD. To adjust, loosen all subframe bushings and pull the subframe forward, retighten the subframe bolts. I only suggest doing this is your car is on the alignment rack to ensure you get both sides adjusted evenly. As noted in another post, the audi TT motorsport rear wishbone bushings are amazing. 80 shore rubber and SOLID! I've installed these on at least 10 cars all with favorable results. Robert

I lucked out and found a set of the vwms bushings. Had to purchase the special press tool to get them in though otherwise you risk destroying them. FYI for the front control arm bushings, use the audi TT motorsport "rear" pivot bushings. The pancake ones. solid hard durometer rubber. Center steel sleeve is much beefier than OEM. R

Here is the order of parts installation starting at the rear axle beam itself: rotor dust sheild stub axle the part you have arrowed presses on to the stub axle and covers the stub axle retaining bolts. larger OD side is outward rear rotor (with abs ring on rear side, bearing and seal) outer bearing washer castle nut cotter pin dust cover :)

Confirmed with C2 this morning that they are currently working with a euro market customer for proper chip tuning. I'll report back once I hear something. R

the afterrun circuit is controlled by both the fan control module (what you have circled) and the yellow temperature sender in the thermostat housing. Robert

I have had great luck with the OEM pressure plate and a clutchnet fiber disk. Pricing is right too.

C2 motorsports seems to have the best package going right now. The dual idler pulley makes total sense and the chip tuning for the US spec cars is top notch. I'll be contacting them for another user and will report back with information. Robert

vacuum leaks, dirty idle stabilizer valve, dirty mass air flow sensor, poor connection at mass air sensor, poor connection at distributor/coilpack. Or even a cracked coil pack. If your car is coilpack I would start with that as they are prone to failure. R