yellowslc

sure.. how crazy do you want? I can obtain clutchnet, clutchmasters, act, spec, sachs sport..

last i knew.. niko still had that bodykit for sale.

I spoke with jim yet again this morning. FYI aol instant messenger handle is "get mounted" he is on during normal business hours. I have noticed in the past when shipping abroad via USPS that even with a tracking # if the parcel is in customs, that information is rarely indicated. And more often than not, the parcel arrives a day or two ahead of the tracking confirmation. R

greegs.. he's been informed to email you.

Yes.. very straight forward. Be sure to use quality lines and fittings (-AN) so you do not have any leaks.

any transmission from a vr6 donor car will bolt up to the engine.

H&R has released a 9 way dampening adjustable coilover set. Inserts are made by bilstein with h&r's own spring rates. In addition, the bodies are stainless steel to resist corrosion. I forgot the exact name of them offhand. I have pss9's and love them. R

you need the sandwich adaptor plate which bolts to the front of the engine along with or in lieu of the factory oil/water heat exchanger.

greegs.. your name and john's were mentioned to him this morning. He stated that John has received his money back and he was actively trying to track your parcel down. I'm not making excuses for him (if it seems this way) just stating that things happen and in the end, he won't leave you high and dry. I personally had a parcel lost by the USPS for 3 weeks back in May. USPS finally found it in a bulk shipping tote and got it out to me. So, his local postoffice may be partly to blame. R

This is totally not like Jim.. TOTALLY.. Just spoke with him.. He is well aware of the situation and is attempting to track down the lost parcels. For those that do not deal with international shipments often.. 99% of the time tracking information is not available until the parcel arrives sometimes a few days later. Customs usually messes up everything. I've known Jim for years, purchased many products from him and know that he is a stand up guy. R

will not work.. bellhousing bolt patterns are different.

Ok you have the one a friend of mine was using. There is a thermostat per say in there.. think home furnace sprial spring.. they work. :)

would parties PM me their info please

I will contact Jim for you as he's a close mate of mine.

To release the hardlines from the clips, apply even and outward pressure away from the clip centerline. Replacement of the rear flex lines is a total PITA, I actually installed my SS rear lines lastnight. Be sure to use flare/line wrenches on the hardline fittings, otherwise you will strip them and be totally stuck making new lines yourself. R

These are actually fairly easy to rebuild (zf racks), the kit is available from the dealer. Yes the passat vr should have the same rack. zf rack bodies are aluminum and "waffle" patterned while the trw ones are smooth steel bodies.

FMU is a device which raises fuel pressure based on vacuum or lack there of (boost) at a predetermined ratio. To change, you replace the diaphram. Basically under WOT you are doubling the pressure to your injectors and maxing their flow rate out in efforts to get the desired amount of fuel. Does it work? sure.. Is it the proper way to do things? not in my opinion. 100+ psi to injectors not designed to handle that takes it's toll on them. But.. to answer your question.. a new/good OEM fuel pump will do just fine. Fueling for a SC kit is much easier than for a turbo. Why? SC provide a linear load on the engine. You will only get max boost at WOT whereas with a turbo, you can achieve max boost anywhere in the rev range if you go WOT. Boost is load dependant with a turbo not RPM dependant with a SC. R

Did that kit come with a thermostatically controlled sandwich plate? That is a definite plus in cold weather climates.

If buying samcos, use the OEM clamps.. period.. otherwise you will crush every darn plastic flange in an attempt to get them to seal. You must also use thermotec tape.. or something like it in areas where hoses can or may rub. Road dirt/sand between the silicone hoses acts like sandpaper and will cut right through them. The fitment is shoddy at best. I used to suggest them/use them.. now I'd say grab the OEM hoses and be done. R

for moderate boost levels (up to 250).. above that you'll need a CIS inline with a FMU.. over 500hp and you need the serious gear.

I purchased the kit from eurospecsport. Apparently it is no longer available. It is their hubs which push the wheel centers outward 10mm. I will be machining my own rear hubs to retain the OEM wheel center offset. I'll dig out some photos and host them. R

Thanks, I've been doing this for 12 years and have learned from my own failures. Why not help others? I am planning a holiday to the UK and Ireland for next may.. trying to drag phat along with me as well.

I have an 11" vented rear brake kit on my corrado now which utilitzes modified mk4 aluminum calipers. My only issue with this kit was the fact it added +10mm of spacing to each side. This restricts the race tire size I can use w/o spending more $$ on bodywork/paint. I am modeling up these rear hubs and having 1050M steel hubs machined to eliminate this spacing, in addition I am switching to wilwood 280x22mm rotors with custom hats. I run stoptech 328x28 rotors up front with their 4pot calipers and did not want to alter the bias of the system just yet by adding 2 piston stoptech rear calipers. My goal is to have the car roadrace ready by spring.

Exact reason that i personally refuse to use turned down oem flywheels. SFI approval is a must on something like this. http://www.roadraceengineering.com has a tech page with regards to how they inspect OEM mits flywheels prior to lightening them. Yet they still suggest billet ones.

FYI.. JE stocks the 82.0 and 83.0mm pistons in both 9:1 and 10:1 compression. A set of 6 with wristpins, locks and piston rings are $800 (i'm on dialup at the moment so.. http://www.xe.com for the conversion to lbs). I am setup with NASA's thermal barrier coater here in texas so for another $250 you can get the tops gold coated and the skirts dry film lubricant coated. All other bores/compression ratios are custom order. Turn-around being 2-4 weeks at a cost of $950/set once again with pins/locks/rings. For bores larger than 84.0mm clearancing of the block is required (main journals will interfere with piston skirts). I would not suggest using FI on bores larger than 83.5mm.. period.. The torque gains is where the difference is when increasing the bore size. Honestly, I would only suggest pistons if you have high mileage/reduced compression or if planning on serious levels of boost. Remember, the weakest link in the vr is the connecting rod bolts. Spend the money and upgrade to arp hardware throughout. I have built 5 83mm bottom ends for friends and over 20 ported/polished cyl heads some larger valves.. some with extensive porting. I am currently building two engines for my corrado.. the first being a balanced/blueprinted 81.0 mm using oem pistons, arp hardware, etc. to use as my mock up/initial stand alone tuning lump. The second is the race engine. 83.5mm JE lightweight coated pistons, manely 4340 coated rods, lightened/cryo treated/coated crankshaft etc etc. My goal isnt to sell you guys parts.. moreso to help you to not be misled and broke. any questions.. parts inquiries.. send them via PM as it's easier to keep up with them. R