Keyo

Has anyone fitted the bbs alloy 16 none split version in the link off eBay . 7j wide and et35. Is it a straight on fit or do you need spacers , once fitted do the tyres stick past the arches a little ?

Thanks P.

Its has no real purpose anymore but is a desired retro look to an alloy wheel. You can get these alloys with out the splits as well Fend https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BBS-RX-ALLOY-WHEELS-7x16-5x100-VW-GOLF-MK3-MK4-SET-OF-4/283512104755?hash=item4202a36733:g:v9QAAOSwSnRc~laf Not sure they are a direct fit becayse of the ET35 amd also 7 inch wide which is a good thing I guess. Splitrims vs. One-Piece Wheels Three-piece, or composite, wheels came into vogue in the 1970s, and reached their peak of stylishness for street use in the 1980s. In the beginning, they provided several benefits. At the time, forging a one-piece wheel was not economical. Porsche's factory forged Fuchs alloys, especially in the wider sizes, were and are today considered very special, expensive items. One-piece centers could be forged, however, and bolted to spun aluminum rims, giving a strong, lightweight wheel. Additional benefits included flexibility of fitment and repairability. Rims could be built for nearly any width or offset, so if you needed just 40 or 50, or maybe only eight, for your racing program, tooling up was a piece of cake, and the costs to be amortized quite reasonable. A damaged rim could be replaced separately, making it cheaper to keep going in the rough world of racing. A three-piece wheel's advantages of exact fitment and repairability remain today, as ever, and are significant. Most high-end composite wheel manufacturers deal in low enough volumes that custom sizes and offsets are a regular part of their business. Unfortunately, manufacturing a composite wheel is extremely labor intensive. A human must assemble the pieces ‘humans are slow, and cost a lot more than machines. A one-piece forged wheel is comparatively more expensive to tool up for. The process is faster, though, so these extra costs can be spread out over a larger number of wheels. In a one-piece forging, all the material is structural. There are no bolts, no flanges to be bolted together, and no extra material for the bolts to bite into, so a one-piece wheel may be a pound or two lighter than an equivalent three-piece wheel.

Spot on Dox, they are pretty close on the front calipers compared to the stock speed lines but enough distance to be safe, rears have loads of clearance on calipers.

Thanks Shaun. Yes mate 16 , got them off ebay last year and they were finished in dark grey so reverted them back to more of a stock look. Also think dark alloys sometimes don't look right on a black car but can look good on red, white etc. Seen them on ebay for as low as £200 needing a refurb , got mine for a few hundred refurbished in the grey , I think that's a sweet price for a split rim set finished. City alloys of Birmingham did the whole set for £280, that included a specialist coming in to split the alloys and put them back together and replace any tatty bolts, also 2 tone paint on paint. Sitting on Eibach lowering springs + B4 Bilstein + Tyres Avon ZV7 205/45/16 Specification VW BBS RS771 Golf Anniversary Mk3 Mk4 Alloy Wheels Brand: BBS Number of Studs 5 Metal Type: Aluminium Manufacturer Part Number 1J0601025E Rim Structure: Two Piece Type: Split Rim Offset: 42 Stud Diameter: 100 Rim Width: 6.5J Rim Diameter: 16

RS BBS alloys back on the Rado after refurbishment, very happy with the outcome. Went for diamond metallic silver centres and polished lip. Think they look right on the car and the RS BBS are the bargain split rim alloy for the Rado imo, straight fit on standard brakes. [ATTACH=CONFIG]97137[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97138[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97139[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97140[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97141[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]97142[/ATTACH]

Unplug the crank sensor and spray it with some contact spray. How high was the flood , you ha ent sucked water into your intake ? Check air filter is dry .

I was reading up on the 2.0 8V and I believe they uprated the engine because they had to fit a Cat to apply to new emission laws and the variation lost a lot power therefore introduced the 2.0 8V.

I think the 16V need to be safe guarded because they are most lighly the ones to be stripped, I bet they are all ready the rarest model in the Corrado line up to date ?

Yes It just controls the valve that triggers the round solenoid on top/middle of the Shrick that opens the flap that changes over on 4000 revs I believe , must also get the information from the ECU of the rev measurement, I believe you can program it to trigger the flap on certain rev readings, also the light changes colour on the piggy ecu when you hit the rev trigger for the flap. Here is a good thread of someone who just managed to buy the Shrick Manifold without auxiliary components, the flap was broken and he manufactured a new one and managed to source the Solenoid and valve off Ford I think . https://forums.mwerks.com/showthread.php?7181683-attn-SCHRICK-VGI-guru-s Another great thread on the Shrick. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6862263-Schrick-VGI-Installation-and-Information

I wouldn't let that put you off a Shrick it's nothing major and sparks don't get changed that often. One thing I do wonder about though, what if the piggyback ECU failed would it be possible to replace this.

This looks mint.

Pm.

I'am becoming open minded to a 8v now as they seem to be a lot better value, but owned a 16v back in the early 90s, it was runout model, had the rainbow interior and if I remember correctly something like a black edition, can't remember .

Absolute bargain compared to a MK2 golf 16V and handles better. Few faults mentioned but I'm sure they could be rectified.

Some are been advertised for top money and have listed on the sale, oh by the way the roof is sagging, one of the wings is damaged, the MFA is bleeding,on coil overs that cost £100 off ebay , it's a bit of a joke to be honest .

Body work looked pretty good to be honest but I just thought about everything in general and looked at Jam sport(carried out the conversion) which are not a VAG specialist like Stealth , and I just don't want to spend my hard earned money on something I'm not 100 percent sure about . It was an 8V and you can pick a stock one of them for quite a lot cheaper then a 16V so wouldn't be worth it. Also would rather a Bilstein shock and springs set up or stock then a cheap coil over brand . Would rather find an honest one like my Rado that had a stock block with a good service history and providence.

Update. Have pulled out of the purchase , after reading through all the new rules with engine swap just sounds like a grey area and I don't want to get stuck with a car that may or may not be able to be registered down to the individual DVLA member of staff that gets the paperwork. If I had commissioned the engine swap myself I could of followed it step by step to insure it would get registered but that is not the case. Back to the drawing board , best to go for a stock engine MK2 Golf I believe. If anyone knows someone that has a 16v for sale big bumper could they kindly let me know. Cheers.

Hi Ger, I promise you not look on ebay , for an original well looked 16V they are asking 8k and above. 8V are somewhat cheaper. Unfortunately mine is not a wide track conversion as it it's on its original sub frames and the mounts were modded. Not sure I would want the wheels sticking out though on the wide track option. N'Ireland seems to be the place to pick up a VAG classic at a reasonable price. They are asking between 20-25 for a MK2 Rallye.

One thing that did make me chuckle is after reading the VR6 conversion forum a couple of posts said they got hold of a Rado VR6 for donor snd decided to keep it and sell on the the MK2 golf. :thumbleft:

Thanks for the advice swiftkid I have declared the mods. Thankfully I also have the original registration plate of the donor car. MK3 Golf VR6

Spot on Dox it is so, I imagine the OBd2 option would be more favourable/power gains but perhaps the OBD1 was an easier install. The implanted engine number is AAA code 2792 cc - 175BHP. Came off a J reg MK3 Golf Vr6, with 90K on the clock. Would of been nice if it was a 2.9 Corrado engine. I have managed to get the seller to go back to Jam sports who did the install and produce a formal document of the engine change so I can send it with the V5 to the DVLA so fully on board . I would have opted for a clean 16V but a good one is asking 10 k, even seen them for 15k, and I couldn't justify that sort of money, could probably easily spend another 3k on them getting them up to scratch. I suppose the bonus is the Golf sounds immense with the headers and six pot. To be fair what I'm paying for the car is the amount that the seller paid for the VR6 Engine and auxiliaries and the garage to install it. Jam sport charged him 2.5k + Vat Question. The golf is H registration plate 1991, it does not have a cat fitted at present, it has headers and a straight pipe. Does it require a cat fitted by law or did they come out of the factory without a Cat. Thanks

Great Si thanks for the link Ill have a good read of that. Cheers.

Hi Guys, Has anyone owned or driven a MK2 golf modified 2.8 AAA engine. How does the car drive with a heavier engine block, does it feel fast. Do most people that have converted them withdraw the information from DVLA and Insurance companies because I like to be on the ball with insurance myself. Are there insurance companies that are happy to insure an engine swap MK2 golf. Thank You.

I'm a bit bias because I have a Shrick but I actually think it looks better then a VSR , the Shrick manifold sort of looks like a fist grasping on to the engine , showing my arty farty side there ha ! Totally understand why the VSR has more appeal though as it is VW Motorsport so has heritage. There are ways and means gentlemen , I purchased my car for 3k with a Shrick, you could always by a Rado on the market with a Shrick and source a stock Mani and then flip the car . I saw a couple with a Shrick for around 4-5 k , they probably sold for a lot less.