paddyg

Forgot to reply to this thread, but in the end i took it to a garage to sort it as i didnt have time myself! The bushes turned out to be fine and it was the rear shocks, got two new ones and replaced the two front mounts as well cos they were almost shot as well. Now I have that sweet cornering feeling back again... Thanks anyway folks.

ok here's a simple how-to for anybody else's future help... Changing Water-pump and thermostat on 1.8 16v 1. Remove Alternator, two bolts on sides and 1 on top, then 3 nuts to disconnect wiring. 2. Remove bracket used to hold PAS pump that covers over the water pump, 4 nuts and 1 long threaded nut and bolt at bottom. 3. Remove the outer water pump pulley, 3 hex-headed screws on side of pulley. 4. Disconnect in/out hoses to pump and thermostat housing. 5. Remove water pump and thermostat (connected together), 4 bolts into engine block. 6. Take inner pulley off water pump and put onto new pump. 7. Put new thermostat into its housing and attach to new pump. 8. Put all bits back together, connecting belts appropriately. my waterpump had a hole come in it at the bottom of it as in pic and it was leaking down on top of the PAS pump. As well as the hole at the bottom, the part where the pulley was driving the pump fell apart when i took it off the old pump, see pic...

Ok, so got water pump and thermostat changed today. Car's indoors overnight now just to make sure there're no leaks while its cold. Will go for a drive tomorrow and check for any "hot" leaks. Not difficult a job at all just making sure to take your time and not shear any bolts. Had difficulty getting the allen-headed pulley bolts out but got them in the end, thanks to Mr. hammer. I've a few pics too so ill put them in a simple how-to guide and post it up. cheers

Ok, I changed the subject to something more suitable in case this might be needed by anyone else in the future. I'm hoping to change the water pump tmrw so I'll post up how it goes and hopefully a few pics. I think i saw on some thread that I can do this by just taking out the alternator first to get at the water pump because its on a 16v. Hopefully I wont have to do what VR6 owners have to do...(remove bumper & rad, undo engine mounts and raise the engine to remove the pump, I think!!!)

I see that i should replace the thermostat as well while i'm at it, i dont suppose there is a guide to replacing the water pump & thermostat in a 16v that anyone has? does the bumper have to come off and the engine be raised up to allow the pump to come off?

ok thanks, Is replacing the waterpump a big job? vr6 replacement looks like a big enough job, does the vr6 and 16v have the same waterpump?

ok, think i've resized it....

So after replacing the side flange and expansion tank it hasn't helped my problem at all. Another look around showed the radiator entry and exit points looked ok, but looking at it from underneath, i found that all the water/coolant is leaking out down at the bottom near to a belt pulley (see pic below). I dunno if its this part or whether its dripping onto it. The leak has been getting progessively worse now to the point where a full top-up now goes after only 30 miles! So it's something major. Is this where the water pump is? or i've read in searches about a secondary water pump? its an early 1.8 16v. i've recently done the heater matrix myself (6k ago), and had the engine refurbed, seals, guides, rings, gasket (where they replaced the water pump (15k ago). [/img] So whats my problem? water pump? secondary water pump? anything else? cheers

thanks v much, tried searching but all topics were related to replacing hoses and how 5 of 7 hoses from 16v pack will fit and other two wont. anyway i know what to ask for now anyway. cheers...

so ive a coolant leak and its quite obvious where it is. just where the hose from the bottom of the expansion tank connects to the engine block. there is a rubber flange type thing (see pic) that the hose connects to that seems to be where the leak is coming from. I dont want to go changing all the coolant hoses and then find ive not solved the problem. what is this rubber thingy called and where can i get one? ps: there is a hole the size of a £1 coin into the gearbox ??? well you can see gears anyway that its leaking on top of which cant be good! should there be a cover or something for here? (see pic)

Is replacing the axel bushes a big job? expensive? Do they both have to be replaced at the same time and where exactly are they?

It feels like im getting oversteer on each right hand turn. When I turn the wheel to go around a corner, the back of the car feels very unstable. More so at high speed and espescially when the road is not very smooth. It feels like the back end is moving about 7/8 inches left and right as i drive along. Sometimes i don't even have to be going around a corner. Its as if the wheels nuts are loose and the wheel is "playing" left and right. Obviously they are not as I've double-checked em! Cheers... p

ok, but i still want to change it as it is the noisiest part of the fuel pump which you can hear over the engine noise! I think if changing over to a different fuel pump and accumulator doesnt fix my problem i will have to start looking at the MAF... so i guess I need a hammer so and hit it a thump in the vice to get it open!!! Cheers...

Hi, I'm trying to replace the fuel pump and associated accumulator in my 1.8 16v. I have just put in a new lift pump (also called the in-tank pump) and also a new fuel filter but I'm still having the same problem where the car becomes jumpy and juddery when I floor it in any gear. This usually happens aroung 3k-4k revs. Its like the engine is not getting enough fuel causing it to misfire or something. Oddly, sometimes when i turn on the lights the problem disappears, although not always, but it could be misfiring and then switching on the lights might fix it? I cant explain this. So anyway to my original question, does the fuel accumulator actually seperate from the fuel pump as it was pretty rusted and i cant open the nut connecting the two?

will this flush all the parts of the cooling system even if the engine is not up to average temp?

Having just fitted a new heater matrix in my corrado the next job is to replace the coolant. I still have the new matrix disconnected from the engine block as there should be no need to flush the new matrix right?, so I want to flush the rest of the cooling system (the block, radiator, expansion tank, ???) If I disconnect the bottom rad hose and open the expansion tank cap and continually fill the expansion tank with tap water while the car is running will this flush out all the parts? (minus the matrix of course as it will be disconnected). Or do I have to let the car run for 10 mins or so, so the engine heats up and opens a thermo switch(?) which will allow the block to be flushed? Or is this switch just used to turn on the fan? Or does it do both (fan on and valve to block opening)? cheers paddy

I would decide based on which is cheaper: new alarm or get an auto-electrician to look at it for an hour?

Maybe too small a fuse? I think it was a 10A fuse i saw anyway, maybe put a 15A fuse in there and see if it'll still blow that? probably not the most correct thing to do, but it'd rule out incorrect fuse sizing??? Other than that I'm out of ideas, how old is the alarm? Mine was the original and while troubleshooting the problem I rang an auto-eleccy about it and he gave me the impression that if the alarm was over 5/6 yrs old then they cant be relied upon! Although you'd think they'd last a bit longer!

I had a similar problem with my laserline alarm. The fob armed and disarmed the alarm but never locked or unlocked the doors! and I couldn't hear the usual vacuum pump noise (whirring) which drives the door pins up and down when I pressed the fob buttons. I thought it was the vacuum pump and so replaced it, which didnt solve it, but recently while changing the heater matrix I found a 10A fuse located above the fuse panel which I had never seen before. Mine was on top of the relays and very difficult to find which is why I never found it previous to this. Have a good root around for this and change it first likecarpy25 mentioned above to see if it fixes your prob. Paddy

on the test drive check for 1. blue smoke from the exhaust, indicates a worn head, valve guides, seals etc ie expensive job. 2. turn on the hot air blower when driving, make sure the hot air is hot to show the heater matrix is working. and no damp footwell like mentioned above. just finished putting my matrix back together this weekend (dash in method) so i know all about it...messy job but good fun!!!

Update on this old thread... Gave car to specialist mechanic who kept it for a few weeks and did timing belt, water pump, head gasket, valve guides, seals, rings and a few more things as well that i've forgotten, all cleared up now, and no more blue smoke thank god! Not burning as much oil either.

Update... I know its been a while but i was searching on here and i remember reading about a guy who had the same problem and found a single seperate fuse on top of the actual fuse box panel which had blown... well low and behold I have found such a fuse when I was messing about recently so its on my to-do list... It was hidden away on its own right up behind the fuse panel... cheers folks...

Update... I bypassed the matrix using copper pipe, although I did break the input pipe to the bulkhead when removing the hose but I think/hope this will be part of my new matrix that should arrive tomorrow from the vw dealer. (€117) In the meantime I've been sorting out that fueling problem I'd been having, turns out a new lift pump was required! Will prob clean the MAF too though! So its a heater matrix replacement job next week. Still havent decided whether i should go dash out route or leave it in... decisions decisions.... Anyway thanks for the help...

Thanks for the help, Replaced the lift pump anyway and havent had my problem since. Although I think I'll clean the MAF while I'm at it anyway! P

Ok cheers for clearing this up! Lockable....