paddyg

My heater matrix went bang (cabin full of steam & wet carpets) and im ordering a new one from the vw dealer but he said they dont have "heater matrix" in their computer system! He said he had a "heater exchange" which he described as a square looking radiator which sounds right! Its costing €117 although Ive never seen a pic so im kinda guessing that what the matrix looks like! I know there might be another thing called the heat exchange in the engine bay, but have i ordered the right thing? Cheers paddy

Just joined in 7th place.....

OK the update on this thread.... Changed the relay and then changed the lift pump, and then the fuel filter as well, main fuel pump is still very noisy though so I'll be changing that soon too hopefully. Have been driving it at weekends and I havent had the kangooring problem since although I'm not 100% convinced its gone as it was a quite intermittant problem. So todays question is this: I took a pic of the main fuel pump location and in particular the square part thats making the very loud buzzing noise even with a brand new filter. But what is what in this pic??? The new Fuel filter is on the left, but if the square buzzing part is the fuel pump then what is the cylindrical part next to it that the fuel filter is connected to? Does it get replaced with the fuel pump too? Cheers P.

ok went at this last night but ran out of light when trying to figure out how to get the lift pump out of its assembly! There is a clip around the pipe out of the lift pump that i cannot figure out how to remove... any help? It's circled in the pic...

Thanks for that. Tried 2 different relays last saturday. I tried it with a number 67 relay and also a number 167 relay. (I think the 167 might be for VRs or something, ????) but I had both so I tried them both with no effect. I still have the erratically sounding fuel pump buzz which changed when I turned on/off the lights. I think the next thing to change is the lift pump Which is the in-tank fuel pump. So my next question is where I can get a replacement lift pump? Do GSF or euro-car-parts have them? Part numbers? Have many people done this job before? Any hiccups? Cheers Pat

Cheers for that, Aonther thing to check out. Where is the MAF? Is there much to cleaning it? I presume its take it off and clean out with petrl or something?

thanks for the info, will have a look at it this weekend. Must check the fuel pump relay too! Have found these instructions in a search, any additions recommendations? 1.Unplug FP relay (bottom right) 2.Take out boot carpet 3.Unscrew the three cover plate screws 4.Unscrew top cap, this will be tight and may require a hammer and screwdriver to get it to budge! 5.Remove and unplug connector, undo fuel pipe clips 6.Pull top bit out and place on some newspaper etc 7.Should now see pump unit in tank and this twists to remove like a bayonet fitting 8.Use a good quality rubber glove (the mechanics type disolve!) and remove the lot. Should there be a voltage or someway I can check to see if its operating correctly? assuming I can see the strainer is not blocked? Cheers, pat

Cheers, yeah interesting but not so sure the symptoms are the same as mine! Dont suppose you know where I can get a fuel pump relay? think it should be the first thing i replace to see if its having an influence? Cheers pat

Hi, Just wondering if you have had any success withg your problem? Im having the same issue! very jumpy, with loud buzzing coming from the fuel pump which changes when the lights are switched on, i.e. more voltage drawn from the battery. Ive a new battery in just in as well... Did you find a fix? Cheers, Pat

Thats what i thought, have lost all faith... If you want a job done... Anyway is the lift pump one of the two fuel pumps? and where is the fuel pump relay located?

With no posts in 3 years i assume this thread is dead. So can i ressurect as I've got the same problem. Had given the car to a garage who's had it for a month without fixing my problem. So think I'll have to do it myself. Its a 1.8 16v Corrado. Same symptoms, noisy fuel pump, lots of jumping, kangaroo'ing making it undriveable. The garage said they changed the fuel pump and still had the same problem so they put back in the old buzzing one! I actually am leaning towards the idea that it could be something electrical as when i turn on the headlights it changes the noise coming from the fuel pump as if it's under more pressure and so cant deliver the fuel to the engine... and it's intermittant as well i.e. it might start fine and idle fine for 5 mins but then suddenly I'd hear a different noise from the fuel pump (under drivers door) and start kangarooing. For my own sanity i suppose i should start and change the fuel filter and fuel pump first like the previous messages in this thread suggest... Just wondering if anybody else had the same or similar problem? Also where is the fuel filter in the 16v? And I know there is two fuel pumps but where are each of these located? and which fuel; pump is thr troublesome one! Sorry for all the questions!!! Thanks very much for any help, Pat

Thanks very much for the answers folks! much appreciated. Probably bypass it for now and fix it in the coming weeks! is it difficult to get the hoses off where they are going into the bulkhead? Is there a knack to it or anything? Also anyone have the part numbers for a matrix from GSF? Ill do a search anyway, surely they are already listed in some other thread! cheers p

Hello, ok after all my searching bout matrix's I still am missing some answers. Story so far is this... driving along the motorway I heard a bang from the engine bay and suddenly the cabin filled with steam (bloody dangerous too) anyway pulled in and got home eventually. Im pretty sure its the matrix as I have the driver & passenger footwell wetness and smell of antifreeze in the car and lots of steam if i put the heater control to hot. Anyway my question is this: Whats the realtionship between the coolant level and the heater matrix? does the matrix circulate the coolant (around the engine) to generate heat for the car? And If so, and it went bang does that mean I could keep pouring coolant (water) into the expansion tank and it'd leak all over the footwells? So because it went bang does that mean that I cannot do the temporary measure of using the copper pipe to connect the inlet and outlet hoses to the bulkhead to each other? Ok thats my questions for now, really annoying as i was having another problem re fuel pumps but thats another days issue now as I hope to replace the heater matrix now. Have read the Canada How-To page which is great thanks to previous posts, although it is for a late VR6, and Im an early 16v? will this pose me any unmentioned problems? any early valvers do this? ok sorry for all the questions, but major kudos for any answers... cheers...

Cheers people, @ Henny, I dont know which pins are which on the plug! suppose I could try all of them couldnt I? good point! @ 33hz, I dont know which pins on the vacuum pump are the power and gnd so i cant do this? I will try to suck on the pipes to see if I can unlock the doors though, good check of the pipework though. @ davidwort, I seem to remember some loose wires alright behind the fuse box panel which were for the alarm! I'll have a check of these also Cheers all, will do these when I get a chance and update ye...

Thanks for responses, I checked the fuses in the alarm module under the bonnet which were fine and I think I tried the pump without the pipe connected but I will check that again... I have already replaced the pump and it didnt solve the problem which leads me to think that it isnt the pump, but everything else is pointing that it is the pump that is broken (alarm still working, using key doesnt lock both doors, no sound/whimper out of the pump). Is it possible that the 2nd hand pump i got is knackered? surely too concidental, and the seller said it was working! Is there a way to check the vacuum pump in a stand alone way? If I could supply power to it... does anyone have a wiring diagram for the connector maybe? (just thinking out loud here) any ideas or help anyone? Oh its a laserline alarm, and it has full closure (i think, well it locks the doors and boot all together, my C doesnt have leccy windows or a sunroof!)

Anybody???

Update: Got a replacement central locking pump (Thanks Gaz) and fitted it but the problem remains where the key fob is still arming and disarming the alarm but not locking and unlocking the doors! So it's not the central locking pump, or the alarm, and the interior lights still work so its not the fusebox! Any ideas anyone?

Had a look, and its not the fuses. One fuse does the interior lights, central locking, and a few other things so thats that ruled out. Think I'll just replace the vacuum pump and see how it goes. PM coming your way gaz the geezer.

Eh.... I thought that it used the same fuse as the interior lights (from previous searches on here), so seeing as they were working i never checked the fuse at all. Any idea what number fuse? Better check it out...

Sounds good, i looked at http://www.partsgateway.co.uk and they seemed to be expensive, surely i could go to the local scrappie here and pull one from some old golf/audi (what cars) for cheaper? How much are you looking for it gaz the geezer? It'll have to be posted to Ireland so is it heavy at all? any idea on postage to Ireland? Thanks v much, Any other opinions on whether it is the vacuum pump or what it is?

ok after searching on here, I think I need to replace the central locking vacuum pump? am I correct in think so? Formerly my alarm key fob used to unlock all the doors and disarm the alarm until one day when I found it wouldnt unlock the doors although it did disarm the alarm! so I had to use the key to unlock the drivers door and drive home. Doing this only unlocked the drivers door and the passengers stayed locked. So... Q: Should unlocking the drivers door also unlock the passengers door? The alarm still arms and disarms off the key fob as normal but now I cant hear the central locking vacuum pump whirring any more as before even when I use the key. Q: So am I right in thinking the pump is knackered? what cars have the same pumps? (golf/audi) does anyone have a picture of what i need to look for? Thanks for any help, Pat PS: Both the interior lights still work so I dont think its any fuses?

I feel for you. I parked my C in tesco car park in cork and some langer in a 4x4 left an awful 6" scrape/dent just on my drivers wheel arch as he was pulling out i reckon! Gutted.

Ok here's the issue and my understanding from what I've searched already. I'd like to know If I'm right/wrong and what to do please. I've got the "no Hot air from blower problem". My symptoms are as follows: Car=1.8 16v and when car is off and I move the slider control I can hear what sounds like a flap moving about behind. Turn on the ignition and the blower works in all 4 positions. Start the car with slider in COLD position. Let car warm up first (5 mins) then move slider to HOT, turn on blower and I get a blast of warm air first for a short time (2/3 mins) then it gets gradually colder. Not as cold as when in the COLD position but not as warm as it should be either. This is especially evident if the car has been running for a while (20 mins). Questions: 1)Where are the two pipes coming from and to the engine? can u edit attached rado_bay pic? 2)Should these be hot or cold in normal operation? (I assume its 1 hot and 1 cold correct?) 3)If these are hot and cold does that mean the heater matrix is delivering hot and cold air to the system correctly? 4)Can I then assume its either a "flap/slider" problem or a "stuck valve" problem? 5)Is there anything else it could be? Also just to help me understand my problem.... 6)How does the heater matrix use the coolant (G11/G12/G12+ whichever) to deliver hot and cold air to the interior? Is the block diagram I made up there similar to what is going on? The heater matrix is just a radiator right? I cant seem to find exactly what the heater matrix does in my searches and I'd like to know. Thanks a million for any help, pat

My 16v doesnt have the sunroof or e/ windows either. I think its all the early valvers that came without. less things to go wrong i say.

So I'm being too cautious when I'm driving miss daisy about the place waiting for 90+ to come on my MFA before giving it some am I? Although I've just had a full head rebuild too so I stayed below the 3k revs for ages to wear in the tappets, seals etc. But it's all good now, although I really dont find the need to go over 4.5k anyway? not the roads around here!!!