Kevin Bacon

Detuned S3 engine chap. ED30 / S3 engine has the following upgrades compared to standard GTI engine:- Larger K04 turbo 13% larger injectors Bigger piston wrist pins (21mm versus 19mm) Stronger rod bearings Main bearing pedestals reinforced 87 deg thermostat instead of 80 deg Different piston rings Bigger intercooler Remote dump valve 221lbft torque from 2200rpm to 6000ish with stock boost pressure. For reference an R32 makes 236lbft from 2800-3300ish rpm

Lol, I don't charge, I'm not a professional outfit, just an enthusiast willing to help :D South east mate, miles away! DTA kit will set you back £1500ish. Don't get me wrong, it works OK-ish with the factory ECU, but it's all torque mapping based. Without the 4WD and other ancills connected, it's just not the same. With a standalone you're letting the engine off the reigns and it runs a lot better. I tried both and mine was definitely better with a standalone, but they're not for everybody. It's a steep learning curve!

Yeah I see where Jim is coming from. Could do with being an inch smaller in diameter, but otherwise I think it looks great and different to the usual RS301s.

Absolutely. I can't imagine it's cheap but it looks damn good.

Good idea. Or maybe a pea sized blob of butyl to hold the chip down. When I had my OBD2 rechipped, I had issues with poor quality chip holders and dry joints. The only time my Corrado broke down in 9 years was because of a dry joint on a rechip!

Scarlett Johansson being just such an example of meh, then mmmmm, actually. So he's taken the standard VW wheels, chopped the rims off and built them back up with splitty dishes? I like this!

Car booked into VW for a cambelt change on Monday. I know what you're thinking (and I'm dreading it tbh) but they've got a deal on at the moment, £349 inc water pump. All OEM parts and a stamp in the book. Normally £499 on this engine. I can't be arsed to do it myself for that kind of money and I know I don't normally give a rat's about stamps in the book, but on a car like this, I needed an attitude adjustment in case I sell it on :) In other news, the engine appeared to have a Revo Stage 1 on it. I found this out by accident after I replaced the battery and it felt slow(er). Did some data logging and the boost request has dropped to 1 bar, but according to the MAF logs, that's still 260ish hp!! What a bonkers little engine!! For some reason Revo maps get deactivated when you disconnect the battery. Must be some kind of copyright protection mechanism. You can re-enable it again at a Revo dealer or an SPS switch (I haven't got one), but it's getting a proper map on the 3rd anyway. You guys really should stick one of these motors in your Corrado!

Experience mate, oh the bitter, bitter experience :D

My first thought to those wheels was a comparable to a girl I initially didn't fancy, but another couple of glances and hmmmm, yeah, she's pretty hot actually.

Buy Corrado. Buy R32 engine. Any R32 engine will do. Buy DTA S80 ECU + STC controller (for DBW) Install it and wire it up using OEM harness terminated with DTA connectors. Bring it to me or Stealth for mapping. Not the cheapest way to do it, but definitely the best way, imo. Bosch ME7 sucks big hairy balls when it comes to conversions. Lovely in it's intended home. Shat in a conversion. Or be different and stick a TFSI engine in it. 8P S3 or Edition 30 lump. 340hp with an intake all day long.

Sweet mother of shiney engineness!! Pics like that give me a semi. Stealth are the boys for VR6 engines :)

Yup, those Schimmel cams are toast. As is the head.

When my alarm went off in the garage, with me stood over the engine, I was so p1ssed off I just cut through the siren loom and chucked it in the bin. That one didn't have a batter in it, otherwise it would have been the hammer as Jim suggested! It's easy to remove an alarm. You will clearly see where the fitter has been and the wires are all one colour (black usually), so it's just a case of cutting all the alarm shat out and re-joining the original wires.

Cheers. I will give that a watch tonight!

I think he's talking about the shield that shrouds the engine mount. It's almost like a cloak that covers it. Rubber is sensitive heat cycling (why tyres get harder as the miles pile on) which is probably why VW put the shield there. Oil vapour and rubber makes for a damn good firelighter as well.

Good info. Never noticed that before!

Can you remember what the program was called?

Definitely Jim. The space available and being able to get at most things without taking the front end off is very welcome after a VR6 / R32!

The picture makes it look worse than it is. It's far less worn than VAG deem to be normal, see page 8 - http://www.goapr.co.uk/support/fsi_fuelpump_installation.pdf Mine's on 80K so would have more wear than yours. Some folk in American with 100K+ have no follower left at all and the pump plunger runs directly onto the cam, wearing that away as well!

Oooh, go Australia! Well, then it really is going to be the next 'World' war then.

I was thinking more of an annoying resonance transmitted into the cabin, which the foam would damp out. Dunno, just a theory. Either way, they'll get trimmed back in accordance with VAG's bulletin. In other news, last night I tackled 3 of the TFSI engine's common problems. The PCV breather, the high pressure fuel pump's cam follower and the recirc valve. I caught the cam follower just in time (old one on the left, new one on the right). When the black coating wears off, it can really start to chew the cam lobe up, and that's an expensive repair. My cam looks in fine fettle. The MK5 was another step up from the MK4 in terms of cost savings, as shown by the combined Engine cover / air filter / MAF! Bloody cheap skates!

Nope, and it never will be. As you say, spying has become more sophisticated and much more covert, but an underlying distrust of other human beings is instilled in us all. Well, apart from the usual minority of LSD fuelled happy clappers who chain themselves to military vehicles. What was that computer virus co-developed by the Israeli and American spies called again? It was targeted at Iran to slow down it's Nucleur development. I think they did a neat bit of malware as well that got into motor speed controllers to destroy the uranium stirrers, or some such. This stuff goes on under our noses all the time. My point is, just because the 21st century world 'appears' to be more civilised and free of nucleur threats, it isn't. In Britain especially, we are sheltered from the barbaric acts that go on all over the globe. In Britain, the worst that can happen to you if you p1ss someone off, is some harsh language, or maybe a slap if you push your luck. In other parts of the world, being murdered is a daily threat. It's comparatively rare in this country. If we need to be reminded about there being very real threats out there, think 9/11. Conspiracy or not, it happened. It was blatant war mongering and it's still happening. War is coming, make no mistake. At the end of the day, the handful of people right at the top will push the buttons if it comes to it, regardless of what the rest of the globe thinks or wishes. Canada doesn't have nukes, but America does. They are joined. Australia doesn't have nukes, but are they an enemy of the IS? I don't think so. It would be a foolish act to throw away our defences because a minority deem it a waste of money, or at least wait until I'm dead, and then they can do what ever the f'ck they like :D

£1000 won't even cover the prep work. Labour costs to fix the rust, dents and sand it back will be high. Even higher if new metal needs welding in, or new panels. Once the shell is in a fit state to receive new paint, you'll need a couple of litres of base and another couple of laquer, depending on requirements. You can anything from £200 to £1000+ just in paint. Most paint shops who care about their reputation will not take your job on for that budget. To get anything near factory standard you'll need £4 - £5K Personally I would just treat the rust, rattle can it and save the money for a proper job, otherwise just sell the car and buy one that doesn't need a respray.

1/4" is useful where a torque is specified in in/lb or cm/kg (or what ever the metric equiv' is) but in my experience there are VERY few bolts torqued to such a low figure on VWs.

Does it mean we'll have to pay import duty on Shortbread?