Kevin Bacon

VR6? Could be the TPS but more likely the MAF sensor or Blue temp sensor. Kev

Stealth fitted a plastic slave cylinder to mine, not sure if VW have gone over to plastic yet but it solves the problem of the piston not returning back to the start of the bore when a new clutch is fitted. Kev

I've driven a VR6 with Spax and it's very crashy and a bit too hard for my liking. It's not undrivable, but you will prefer other brands. Kev

I am having H&R's/Koni's fitted at the moment.Is that 1.5 turns the front and back or what? 1.5 turns front, 3/4 turn rear. On the rear TAs, move the C clip to the middle slot on the strut body and the ride height will then be even. Kev

ala early MG metro turbo boost guage!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: keep us posted on this kev might be the new must have subtle mod :lol: I must admit, I saw this done on Jereon Dik's MK1 G60 monster. VERY VERY subtle and stock looking! An AF meter is essential imo. You can also rig up another LED to monitor open or closed loop circuits and Knock sensing! VAG-COM's day's are numbered!!! Kev

Cool, did a little research into this and I've decided on one from http://www.dawesdevices.co.uk It's just a tiny little 4 light unit that has ultra bright LEDs so you can see it clearly in your peripheral vision. I will look at fitting these LEDs into the blanked off LED slots in the instrument pod :lol: It's £50, so not too bad.

Is summit the make or the name of the supplier? I went to summitracing.com and there's only a handful of air/fuel monitors there, none are 'summit' ones. I know they bounce all over the place on the road but when hard on the throttle, it should stay at stoich. They normally drop into rich at idle from past experience! Kev

That's a good tip that. I'll get Vince to do the same to mine when I'm there next as mine still cuts out with a brand new ISV. It might be a duff one. I wonder if it's worth polishing the vane with a dremel to alleviate any chance of sticking? Kev

Dunno mate, same could be said with Sunrooves and ignition switches! It's always the way, as soon someone mentions either of the above, a wave of people all fall down with the same problem, maybe we should delete the problems section and just keep schtum!! Anyway......it is an easy job. Get a pump from G&S as it's cheaper and made by Bosch (as per the VW one), then..... 1) Remove boot carpet 2) Remove 3 self tapping screws from the large black cover plate and lift the plate away. 3) Get a large screwdriver or blunt instrument and tap the large white retaining ring's ridges with a hammer anti-clockwise to slowly remove it. If you've got a huge plumber's wrench, you can use that instead. 4) pull the hoses off the pump, noting their orientation. 5) Do the same with electrical connections. 6) Now...the pump is clipped to the bottom of the tank and it needs a good twist and yank from memory. 7) Once out, remove the float mechanism (as the float on the G&S pump is wrong). 8) Put the original float mechanism on the G&S pump (after binning the supplied - Golf VR6 - float system). 9) Aquaint the new pump with the motion potion and push down and twist (again, from memory) 10) Reattach all the gubbins from the previous steps. 11) Start car and enjoy :lol: I'm not sure if the VW pump comes with a float and fuel level sender or not, but use VW stuff if you don't want to muck about swapping floats/senders over etc. Kev

Can anyone recommend any suppliers? I've done a google search and it just comes up with some silly priced ones. Larkspeed do a nice little Lumenition 10 LED one but even that is £110! I don't really want to pay much more than £50 if possible! Cheers Kev

Mine still does it and it's had a new pump and a whole load of other electrical goodies. It's probably something really stupid I haven't found yet, and probably costs 5p. I have heard that VR6 throttle bodies can wear out and since the throttle position sensor provides the main trigger for the idle valve (also temp controlled), there could be something in that as knackered bearings in the TB would upset the TPS signal fidelity. Kev

Yeah I agree with Henny on the inner CVs making the noise. They tend to make a light clicking noise under load whan pulling away, when wearing out. When completely knackered, the click turns into a full on crunching/louder click noise! Once the car is on the move and overcome the initial pulling away strain, the noise goes. Could be that....not saying it is but get them checked for peace of mind's sake. The aux pump is a sealed unit I'm afraid and cannot be repaired. That and the main pump leak when the internal seals have worn down. The main pump is only £25 though. God knows why the aux one is over 4 times the price. If VW fitted a proper main pump in the first place, it wouldn't need an assistant! For your info, the aux pump comes on when the coolant reaches 100 deg C and during the fan cycle when the engine is switched off. Kev

I love Momo wheels. It's amazing how a steering wheel grip can alter the way the car feels :lol: RE: the grinding horn contact! I left it too long to fix on a MK2 Golf once and it wore the contact away completely! So it do as soon as you hear the noise!! Kev

Yeah I do prefer the H&Rs to the Eibachs but that's just my choice :lol: One thing to remember though is the Corrado is not a softly setup car to begin with, so you shouldn't expect a better ride quality after fitment of uprated kit. Don't get me wrong, the ride is completely trashed but you will definitely feel those bumps more than before. What you do notice though is vastly improved body control on undulating B roads. I can't really recommend fitting stiffer springs to standard dampers. Stock dampers are designed to control the oscillations of a specific spring poundage. Stiffer springs will have the dampers working overtime and they'll wear out quicker. They will also not supress major bump compression, or control the resultant rebound aswell as an uprated damper. With my Konis on the softest setting, the car just bounces too much, so even they cannot control the H&R properly [on that setting] and the Koni on this setting is WAY stiffer than an OE damper. I have to crank the Konis up to 1.5 turns to get proper spring control. The beauty of Konis is you can set the damping rate to suit any circumstance. You can compensate for tyre compression, ambient temperature (cold weather stiffens damper oil and bushes) and driving mood. Just my tuppence worth.... Kev

Yeah, Almost like they could see the future!!! Yeah, CHEERS VW!! :mad: :lol::lol: You get one with Beemas too but you never need to use it :? Interestingly some BMW tilt/slide roofs are also made by Rockwell international, so where did they go wrong with the Passat/Corrado ones?? Kev

Mine does that occasionally too and to save you some money, do not buy any of the following (because they've been done on my car and not solved it):- MAF sensor Idle valve Throttle position sensor Cam position sensor Plugs and leads Engine speed sensor Coilpack What I would do is check the condition of all the hoses at the rear of the engine as these are prone to cracking/splitting because of the heat. The brake servo hose can sometimes leak but you'd notice a drop in braking performance first. The VR6 just does this from time to time, but if it does it every single time you pull up to a junction, I'd definitely investigate but if it's an occasional thing, I shouldn't worry about it too much. I bet it does it the most when you're crawling along in slow moving traffic? When it does cut out, don't use the car's inertia to bump start it otherwise you could stretch the timing chains. Use the starter motor instead. It might be the blue temp sensor (middle one of the three on the thermostat housing) fooling the engine into thinking it's permanently cold, therefore over fuelling it. It's the same sensor as the Digifant 8V GTI, so doesn't cost an awful lot. Kev

Yep the actual allen key you need (shaped like a crank handle) is clipped to the motor housing, very kind of VW to supply that. On the motor is a little black plastic cap which you slide across, revealing the emergency crank hole, into which you insert the allen key. Turn clockwise to tilt and anticlock wise to slide back. The plastic cap has a microswitch in it, so you must close it again in order to use the motor again. Kev

I wish that were true :cry: I've decommissioned half a dozen alarms in my time. Mostly a mixture of Cliffords & Scorpion jobbies. Unfortunately, as good (or bad) as these alarms/immobilisers may be, the fitters just leave far too many clues as to which wires they've snipped, which wires they've spliced into and which wires they've bypassed - despite all the alarm wires being the same colour!! Takes [me] about 2 hours to unwire an alarm and resolder the original wiring loom together. Not boasting, but just had to do it a few times due to complete failure of said alarms. I personally hate them and think they're a waste of time but the damn ins companies insist on That Cat 1 on my car, so that's the only reason I've got one :? Kev

I think it's been a long time coming. I walk more often than I use the car and I regularly see dozy twots drive through a red light because they're too busy holding a phone to their ear and gassing. Lets face it, if you're on the phone and your bird dumps you, or you win the lottery, or you hear of a family berevement (god forbid), do you think your concentration will be on the road at that point in time? I totally agree with banning hand helds as a lot of drivers in this country are poor enough as it is, without a phone putting them off, but hands free kits should not be banned. At the end of the day, you WILL get 3 points on your license if caught, so don't use it! Anything urgent can be dealt with by pulling over somewhere and calling back etc. Kev

Any committed car thief can bypass an ignition switch and won't need to logon to the Corrado forum to get the wiring codes. I worked it out in less than a minute. Besides which, the alarm/immobiliser still needs to be dearmed before the car will start. I'll leave it up to the Moderators to decided what to do with these posts but are you really that paranoid? Kev

Sepak Elngish adn wee mghti be albe to hlep.

Told ya Vince is the man :lol: Kev

I hate to be mister picky, but the Black is the ign live. If it were an earth, you would be telling us a story about a fire engine. :shock: Big up to Kev, for the 'Bentley free electrics' though. :D Cheers Gavin Erm....it is a common connection, or earth, for the 3 pole ignition switch. The 30 amp red cable is the ignition live I think you'll find. I checked it with a multimeter last night when I replaced the switch. Ta Kev

Same here, no damage (touch wood) inflicted on the car as yet. I think having a drive helps as it's off the beaten track and therefore away from malicious plebs. The spineless tw@ts always do it in the early hours or when they're p***** and don't care. If they're man enough to attack a defenseless car in the small hours of the morning, then they can damn well try it with me standing there watching during the day. I too hear noises during the night and fear the worst. I woke up once at 3am to an almighty bang, looked out of the window and some drunken muppet was walking down the street kicking car doors. He shouldn't have kicked the Alfa 166 because it's owner came out and duly put the punk down. That was well worth waking up for :lol: Kev

Yeah I think my kit was around that sort of price. The fitting kit and sandwich plate are the most expensive items. The metal and bolts depends on where you fit it, but if you put it behind the grille like I did, you just need some metal which you can bend into shape and drill. I used those universal strips with pre-drilled holes and some M6 bolts/nuts. As for differences, I noticed a good reduction in oil consumption and the oil takes longer to turn brown/black. No performance increase noticed but that wasn't the main objective. Kev