Kevin Bacon

It should solve your problem but be aware that the Fast road insert is a fair bit firmer than the regular grade insert. You may get a bit of vibration, but hopefully not a horrendous amount. Kev

And I used to enjoy trouncing Escorts with my MK2 Golf :lol: :lol: :lol: Anyway....going off topic now :oops: Kev

Picture of new and old throttle potentiometers below. The original M4 x 28 bolts are useless with the revised pot as they're too long. You need M4 x 15, but you don't get any with the part. Kev

OK this is really frustrating me now. After a lengthy chat with VW head office today about the replacement pot (037 907 385 Q) it seems that's all you can get, and now covers 20 odd cars, inc the C VR6. The problem is, when the new one is fitted the car idles at 1200rpm when warm. I checked on VAG-COM that the throttle angles were correct (14 deg at idle and 92+ deg at full throttle) and they were spot on. So the pot should work in theory, but it doesn't! If I put the old one back on, it behaves normally. But the old one is held together with superglue, it ain't gonna last long, so can't use it permanently. Any ideas? Cheers Kev

Avoid the front poly mount - harsh vibration at 4K plus. Their Heavy duty rubber gearbox one is good though. Kev

No you're not barking up the wrong tree. VR6s just have seperate oil filter housings (enviromental reasons - disposable elements and all that bollox) and so don't have screw on filters that attach to the oil cooler as on 4 cylinder cars. Further to Mike's comment on the cooler being a misnomer, the correct terminology is 'Heat Exchanger'. When the engine is cold, hot water 'exchanges' it's heat with the cold oil's, err, coldness, therefore warming up the oil. When the engine is hot, hot oil 'exchanges' heat with cooler water and thus a symbiant circle is formed. I'm not envious of anyone having 3 Cs. 3 time as much maintanence, tax and MOTs! One is more than enough for me! Kev

The winscreen flap is on the driver's side above the feet warmer vent. Take the driver's side shelf off so that you can get behind the centre console. Locate the foot vent and look directly above that and you'll see the screen vent flap lever thingy. Use a lead light or something as you won't see what I'm babbling-on about! Disconnect the screen vent cable from the dash end (see my thread in the Servicing section) and try and move it by hand. You should be able raise and lower the screen flap with the slightest amount of finger pressure. If it's a struggle and the cable bends before anything moves, you need to replace the cable, which costs less than a tenner. Kev

Sounds like it's a used G60 or 16V one in which case if it's moving that much, it's knackered. VR6 ones are solid rubber (internals) and barely move at all but the first generation 16V/G60 VTs did try and emulate the hyrdualic action of the stock mount, but with better damping control - but they often failed more often than the VW ones. The whole VT range has been improved in recent years. Kev

Try a Ford dealer as the Galaxy V6 has a VR6 engine in it. Ask for an Engine Speed Sensor and you should get a 6 inch peice of wire with a white plug one end and the sensor on the other. You get a lot for money these days :x The sensor lives at the bottom right of the block (front) and is held in place with one 5mm hex bolt. Takes 10 mins to change out. Kev

No need to apologise mate, you sound like you know your stuff with suspension, so I'm always open to corrections/suggestions. My VR6 is going to Stealth in a couple of weeks to get a faulty Koni changed out, so I'll get Vince to put the camber to -1.2 Cheers Kev

Sometimes it's an illusion. You can look at your car from certain angles and swear one side is different from t'other, but may not be. For the best result, set the camber to 0.5 degrees negative. Kev

There's one BIG pump in the boot and pipes from that to each door and the boot (AFAICR they're normally rigid orange plastic pipes) The pump works both ways, ie. it creates a vacuum to lock the doors and pressurises the system to unlock them (this may be the other way around, I can't remember!) If you have a leak anywhere then the pump will run, but none of the actuators (the bits attached to the locks) will move 'cos they aren't getting the pressure/vaccuum they need to work. Check to see that the pump isn't working and that it's got power before jumping in with a new pump... :roll: :lol: Spot on Mr Henny. Vacuum and pressure. The connector is a three pin job, an earth and the two motor direction pins. The door handles have electrical connectors in them to trigger the pump. It could even be these that's causing the problem. The plastic tubes rarely break unless people muck about with them but check the common movement areas, such as where the doors open etc. Make sure the grommets are OK. The easiest and cheapest thing to do first is get another pump from a tip. If still no joy, could be your activation circtuitry. Kev

Beats me, Corrados are just Corrados as far as my primitive brain can ascertain! So long as it goes fast and sticks to the road like chung nuts do to arse hairs, who cares what the differences are. Kev

Mine uses half that over the same distance That's a classic get out clause. VW simply refer customers to the handbook if they ring up and complain. Two extra cylinders 8) The general consensus is you can mix synthetic oils, but not expensive synths with cheap minerals. Kev

Cool, was it the same connections? What age of car did you use? Yep same connector. Not sure what age Audi. The scrappy just said it was from a 100, a late MK2 I'd guess. It's slightly bigger than the Golf/Corrado one but the foam packing can be easily trimmed to suit. I paid £5 for it. Kev

H&R springs get my vote. Need matching with decent dampers though, H&R or Koni do the job nicely. Kev

Just think how much that would have cost you at VW at £80 per hour, plus VAT! Kev

Well it's all sorted now. The vent control is now sweet and slick :D So nice to have them working again after 6 months. Total cost of the repair was £14. £9 for a new cable and a fiver for a Passat control panel. I love cheap repairs. At VW rates, I saved myself £400 in labour and £250 for the control panel :lol: DIY rules 8) Kev

The don't exist. All you get now is a sheet of grey foam. Just ask for it at the dealer, they are well aware of it as it's a generic solution for the whole VAG range. You have to supply the adhesive yourself and trim to fit. Kev

Some colours have been discontinued, period. It just means VW don't supply the touch-up pens/sprays anymore. Auto paint mixers are not cheap, about £15 per tin, which is a lot more than VAG paint. Kev

I had the same problem with a MK2 golf and it was the central locking pump. The door pins would go up and down intermittently. Most embarrasing when you chirp the alarm in front of people and the car is still locked! I stuck a pump from an Audi 100 in it (need to cut the foam surround slightly) which seems a bit stronger and quieter. Kev

I've already put a new MAF on and the car is much better. I tried to clean the carbon tracks on the TPS for good measure, and broke it, silly me. There may be a problem with sourcing new TPS as the part number above has been superceded with 037 907 385 Q, which is completely wrong, as I found out today. Kev

9 weeks! Something ain't right there. I just walked into my dealer and walked out with the blades, and had to wait till the following morning for the arms. Mind you, that was in March though :shock: I've noticed BMW now use the same arms and blades aswell. Kev

That looks absolutely spot on Spoier. Right offset, right size, right style. Nice one. I've always liked BBS wheels. Some wheels command too much attention and is usually the first thing you notice, but in your case it all gels together nicely as a neat package. One thing that does stand out rather prominently though is the orange plastic! Why do American market cars have to have those nasty fender lights in the bumpers? Kev

As they say, a picture paints a 1000 words, so have a snout at the attached, which is what you'll need to get if your paint is discontinued. They should be able to find the correct paint code (there are two for each car strangely enough) from your reg number. They did with my car which was how they were able to tell it was obsolete. The number on your sticker is not the number VW need to cross reference the parts database. They need the 2nd one which they can only get from the reg/chassis number. All very daft. Anyway, Anglia Autocolors in Ipswich made up my Ice Grey Violet metallic (LK4U) because VW have made it obsolete, which was very kind of them! The quality of this paint is very good and the colour match is also good. Hope this helps Kev