Kevin Bacon

It's all a big compromise. Too big an intercooler and you get a pressure drop, too small a one and you get ineffective cooling. Water spray only kicks in when the car is moving slowly, to boost cooling. Certain imprezas use this method and it's very effective. Kev

Nah, what you need to do is cut the whole front off the bumper and replace it with chicken wire. You'll so gain maximum respect from the Nova boys for that. Kev

A nice small, black oval is what you want :lol: Don't like rice pipes. Kev

£1300 for the G60? Blimey! I pay £550 comp for my VR6 through Axa. That's one benefit of being 30 I guess! Kev

Chargecoolers are not as effective as intercoolers. The best intercoolers are large front mounted ones with water spray (not water injection). Kev

Count me in. I've had 6 turbo chargers (1 per cyl) fitted recently and I'm keen to see what the results are. I don't think Vince's rollers will go as high as 12,465 bhp though? Cheers Kev

All Corrados have the diffused lenses I'm afraid. No clear ones available that I'm aware of. The turn signals are just plastic, so you may be able to fabricate some clear perspex ones yourself. Kev

Just aswell considering my two front Konis have failed after 2 weeks! Kev

A schrick 276 cam with a vernier pulley is a good mod. But as with all forced induction engines, cam profiles are critical as you don't want a huge overlap where the boost just goes straight out of the open exhaust valves. The dyno torque curve would show a monster trough half way along, not nice. The biggest restriction on the G60 is the head. Eurospec used to do a very nice big valve head which was a new cast, not a re-worked stock head. Therefore it had much bigger inlet and exhaust ports, not to mention bigger valves. I'll try and dig up some info on Jereon Dik's old 8V G60 engine which had 50mm exhaust ports, VW Motorsport charger with toothed pulleys and numerous other bits and peices. I think this thing was generating 300bhp, or there abouts. Having driven 'Supercharged's' G60 recently, I can really see the potential these engines have. Go for it! Kev

I think my other front Koni popped today aswell as the ride has all of a sudden become a lot more pliant....hmmm. I'm sorry but Koni are not in my good books at the moment. Kev

Sounds like one of the heat exchanger hoses has ruptured or the HE itself has blown. Oil comes out of the block into the HE and water enters and leaves the HE via the small hoses, so the O ring is unlikley to be the problem otherwise you'd have oil leaking out of it. Kev

Actually, it's £92.40+VAT! Moral of the story - never try and dismantle it to try and clean the carbon tracks. Needless to say I have repaired mine 8) Kev

The information from this thread has now been compiled into a Wiki article, so I've locked and un-stickied this thread. ================== Got a very stiff or non-functioning heater direction control? Here are some hints and tips. Picture 'Controls' shows a couple of Passat (from a 91 H reg) facia panels I picked up from the scrappy for a tenner. The one on the right is perfect and has been modded to Corrado spec. The one on the left is standard Passat but look at the sheared plastic where the Bowden cable retainers sit! VERY VERY common problem. Passat ones fit the Corrado OK but there are a couple of small things to change. These are described in pics 'passat' and 'passat1'. Picture 'bowden cables' shows the root cause. Basically, the screen vent cable is very stiff and becomes even more so over the years. This reluctance to move causes the control mechanism to struggle and eventually shears off the plastic cable clip and the metal detent plate slips underneath the main gear wheel, causing that grinding feeling when you turn the knob. Picture 'vent flap' shows another problem, whereby the face/feet vent flap lever jumps teeth, causing the air to go nowhere in particular. You need to prize the lever off and reset it's position so that the bowden cable resumes it's normal on/off cycle. You can hear when the flap is sychronized properly by means of a 'thunk' at the limit of each cable direction. Well I hope this helps. You will faint when VW tell how much a new facia control panel is, believe me. My scrappy has loads of passats, luckily, and £10 for two of them is a real bargain. I have made one perfect panel up using bits from the Corrado one and the passat ones. Cheers Kev

I fitted mine today and it made a big difference. The engine is a lot smoother than before and really takes off past 3,500rpm. 4th and 5th gear acceleration is where you notice the change the most. The way the engine feels in first gear is also much better, a quick dab on the throttle when you see a gap on roundabouts is all that's needed for a rapid get away. Before it needed a bootful of revs to pull away cleanly. Well worth it imo. And of course, if anybody knows of a cheaper source of MAFs, then please spill the beans!! Cheers Kev

You're welcome mate. Hope you get the leak sorted. Kev

I've found with 020 boxes that when you replace a seal on one side, the other side goes shortly after, so it may be wise to do both sides whilst you're down there as I'm pretty sure the 02A is very similar in that respect. You don't always need a new flange, depends on mileage and visual condition. The flanges aren't that expensive new and neither are the seals. I've just had a quick snout at my VR box and the diff appears to be symmetrical, so the seals should be same for both sides. Do double check with the dealer first. You need to see which seal is actually leaking. There may be a wet spot on the bulkhead and/or the steering rack. If not, you'll have to climb underneath and do some detective work. The only special tools you'll need are a 10mm spline key for the driveshaft bolts (always replace these as they are stretch ones), a flange removal tool (a long bolt through a short peice of metal) and maybe a pair of circlip pliers for the clip under the flange dust cap. The box will need draining before you pull the flange out. The old seal can be levered out with a screwdriver but the new one must be fitted carefully, making sure it's square and flush with the diff casing and avoid touching the inner seal lip as they split easily. Doing both sides should take no longer than half a day on axle stands and the parts (2 x flange, 2 x seal, 2 x dustcap) should be no more than £100 but it's been a while since I've done it, and it is a Corrado, so costs may have risen over the years. Cheers Kev

£54.30 + VAT :cry: Kev

If anyone needs a MAF sensor for their C VR6. They can be obtained from Bosch directly for £150 exchange or £200 new. VAG price is £276 inc 10% CCGB discount! All prices plus VAT. I think Euro Car parts do them for £200+VAT too but I can only find an AAA sensor (Golf hot film) on their site. G&S don't do them at all. If ordering from Bosch (via a garage) the Bosch part number is - 0280 213 021 Double check with your dealer before ordering as there are two MAFs listed, one for non-DIS VR6s and the other for later DIS equipped cars I suspect. The difference between exchange and new is simple. Bosch re-use the plastic tube and install a new voltage sender, plat wire & temp sensor and stainless meshes. The extra £50 for a new one just means you get a new tube aswell. I went for an exchange and the whole unit looks new to me, so better off getting the cheaper one. How do you know if you need one? If the VR feels down on power and nothing comes up on VAG-COM, it's usually the MAF. The throttle pot is used as a back up but if it's carbon tracks are worn down, it'll cause problems also. Kev

Are there? Fair enough, I'll shut up then :lol: Kev

I'll wager squidgy engine mounts is the primary cause of failing VR6 hoses! It certainly was on the MK2 Golf. A good afternoon's thrape was enough to see the rad top hose part company with the radiator. VW, tsk. VW are also tight with hose lengths and wiring loom lengths so they tend to suffer fatigue from the constant rocking. A few pence invested in longer cables and hoses would certainly aleviate the problem. Tight arses. I have a good prod of the hoses every so often when hot to make sure they're not balooning or on the verge of splitting. If Samcos weren't so expensive..... Kev

Apart from the corporate nose (too Passat like) and the headlights, it looks great. Very bold of VW going back to their RWD roots too :lol: They're really starting to get some serious grunt out of the venerable VR6 lump aswell, 265bhp, nice one :lol: Kev

A long shot but does anyone know off the top of their heads how much a VR6 throttle position potentiometer costs? I accidentally broke mine inspecting it, oops. Part is 021 907 385 B Cheers Kev

Don't worry about it, they come with a lifetime warranty so free labour and parts should the worst happen! Kev

Best bet is to fit new bushes but then if the axle isn't right to begin with, you'll have invalid reference points for the new ones. You'll need to consult the official VW workshop manual for the precise parameters. If you think your axle is bent, I suppose you could nab a rear axle off a Passat and start over? Might just be that your current bushes are so knackered, they've collapsed into a different position? Bit of a long shot I know. Kev

That's a first, an airbag mod to a Corrado! Can't help thinking why, though? Even if you could fit them, the only way to be sure they'd go off is to crash the car because factory air-bag installs are optimised on the crash rig, as are the impact detectors. 18s look daft on a Corrado and all that unsprung weight and width will kill your ride and handling. Kev