Kevin Bacon

You need a 15mm ring spanner to adjust the striker pin. Slacken it off and you have approx 8mm adjustment in all directions. If you push the pin toward the interior too much, the door will need a firm shove to close until the door seals compress over time to the new position. Yes the plastic sleeve does make a difference. Kev

The loudness is down to the brand of exhaust. The choice of baffle material and skin metal have an affect on reverberance. I prefer the VR6s with a muted exhaust note.....they sound so refined and creamy. How has the 2.5" bore affected torque/power delivery? Kev

Yeah the shocks need to come off as you have to remove the spring to adjust the C clip. There are 5 (from memory) height adjustment slots. Middle is default. I always go up one slot and the ride height is then even. Just pull the C clip off with pliers and press into the next slot up, refit spring and refit to car. Kev

Check here for some specs to be getting ideas from:- http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/sr_pvr6.html Kev

I can catergorically state your crashiness is down to the 17s and Eibach springs. As I've stated already, H&R springs are much much better. I have those and Koni TAs on my C and the ride is very good. The rear koni TAs are height adjustable (non TA are not). When fitting them, raise the C clip up a notch and I guarantee you won't get an arse down stance. Kev

Yes the K jet management is very basic and fixed. Popular piggy-back modules such as the K star KS-301 can be made to do a variety of things. I used a KS-301 on my 16V Turbo to control an extra 4 injectors via MAP sensor and various boost maps. Depends what you want to achieve. DTA is a very good standalone management system but you need to add a crank position sensor to the crank pulley, along with a timing wheel - supplied normally. These setups offer sequential injection, among plenty of other things! Kev

Could be the exhaust clouting the rear axle, especially if it's an aftermarket one. Kev

The easiest way to check battery, alternator and earth circuits is with a multimeter. With the engine off, you're looking for 12V + across the battery. 11V or lower, the battery is knackered. With the engine running, you want anything from 13.8 to 14.4V across the battery. If you still get 12V or lower, the alternator diode bridge needs replacing. Kev

Running the car so low that the driveshafts are lower than parallel at the car's static height is not a good idea. They clout the chassis rails as already mentioned and also ruin the handling. If the car is to remain pliant over mid bend bumps and potholes, you need suspension travel, simple as that. I've often followed cars that have been lowered to excess and watched them skip and bounce round corners. Takes twice as much concentration and effort.....and all for the sake of street cred. A drop of 30mm is plenty for a Corrado whilst retaining decent ride quality and suspension travel. Kev

The rear angles can be adjusted with by shimming the rear hubs if need be, but if the values are way off, this is indicative of a rear or side impact or at best, knackered axle bushes. Stealth always set the front to -0.5 degrees camber and 0 degrees tracking, which always works for me. No tugging to the left and dead ahead self centering remains, aswell decent steering weight. I think VW specify +0.5 or even as much as +1 as standard. Kev Kev

Getting the old one out is the easy part, you just sit on the seat and kick it out! Make sure they use a new seal (hence getting VW to do it) as I've seen loads of Cs that re-use the old seal that sit proud of the A frame by as much as 10mm, especially at the top corners. I believe they are also bonded in like Golf G60s, could be wrong though. Kev

Stealth/Gemini do a nice 6 speed conversion. I believe 5th becomes 6th and the rest are restacked to keep the engine in the torque band when changing, i.e. lowered ratios. It costs well over £1000 though or I think VW motorsport sell an alloy end case with a 6th gear conversion kit for a bit less. Kev

Stealth's Corrado VR6 turbo developed 370bhp and 405lb/ft torque, which was a real flyer. It was built to last too. The 2.9 engine is not the most long lasting of engines in standard trim, so go above 500bhp requires a lot of work and expense to ensure it holds together! Kev

Yeah it's the Golf VR6 that has two piece front spoilers. Corrados are all one piece. My car has been lowered 30mm and so far no clouting of the 90mm spoiler on the ground, so I'd say go for that one. Kev

I use a VT front and a turn2 rubber gearbox one. The rear is standard. Seems to do the trick. Using firmer mounts improves the handling too, especially on the VR6! One other overlooked product from Vibratechnics are their rear wishbone bushes. They are absolutley superb and sharpen up the steering no end. Braking stability is also improved, as is torque steer, not that Corrados really suffer from that. They just hold the wishbones in place a lot better than the VAG ones. Kev

Same here. The ride height looks spot on with the H&Rs imo. Kev

The front wishbone bushes rarely need replacing, unless utterly knackered. Have yet to see some, even on 100K plus cars. The rear ones are the biggest weakness. My 80K old ones were split. I had Stealth press in some vibratechnics ones (metal/rubber) and they are superb. MUCH tougher than VW with no harshness. Steering response is also much improved too. Kev

RWD on a VW? I'll believe that when I see it! I know the feature is fantasy, but so are the specs! Kev

There's no way a flowed head on it's own will give 220bhp. Seems like a fair price for an oldish Left hooker with a deep scrape. Kev

You must be referring to the motor show test (Top Gear?) where they put an R1 against a Porsche 911 turbo. I seem to remember the R1 was way quicker on the straights but even on the corners. Remember, cars have 4 wheels and 4 brakes, bikes don't. Any biker that keeps with cars round bends at 3 figure speeds either has a well sorted bike or balls the size of grapefruits. Kev

aaron, try normal VW quantum silver stuff. It's a bit thicker than Mobil 1 (except M1 15/50W motorsport). I used to have the odd smoke puff on one of my 16Vs and VW oil cured it. If that doesn't cure it, then at least it's cheaper than throwing Mobil 1 down the drain and then sell the car like you say! Kev

The 02 plug is on the rear engine mount. You could always tap into it there and then run the wires through a grommet on the bulk head? Kev

The green and red PAS fluids are chassis number dependant. You need to check with the dealer. My 94 VR6 uses the red auto transmission fluid and I confirmed with the dealer it is the correct stuff. The green stuff is a light oil for newer generartion VWs. Always use the right one. Kev

Are you pushing the buttons hard enough? Both the odometer reset and clock buttons require a hefty shove on my car. I also thought they weren't working at first because of this. Just a thought Kev

Agree with Scott. The VW PAS system is one of the best in the industry, especially on the Corrado. It only feels assisted when required and feedback and turn-in are superb. I would hazard a guess at either your serpentine belt slipping or the pump blades are worn. No you shouldn't really turn the steering in large amounts when stationery as the load exerted on the rack and tie-rods is at it's greatest. Just don't do it regularly. Kev