Kevin Bacon

Like your humour mate :lol: Kev

Shouldn't use cereal packets for critical parts like throttle bodies and G laders. Fair enough if running a 1.0 fiesta on a shoe string but G60s deserve the best parts to keep them running at their best. VAG gaskets are made of a dense, fibrous pulp and wax coated to make them oil and water resistant, among other things. Kev

I've mounted a green light (12V, 1.2W interior bulb) in the hole so it illuminates the cubby hole at night. Useful for finding my fags when driving at night! Kev

You have to stick at it. It looks really daunting and fiddly when all the dash cables and wires are hanging out, plus you have to be a contortionist to get the cables on and off the heater column! When all the cables are free of kinks and stiffness, the whole lot works perfectly. Just have to remember not to force the knob if it goes stiff again. I've also found that on fan speed 4, there is a lot of pressure exerted on the direction flaps, so it's best to lower the speed to 2 or 1 and then adjust the direction - just to be on the safe side! Kev

Nice one, I might get mine done too then as my VR6 is standard (even the filter and exhaust) and it kicked out 200bhp exactly and 193lb/ft torque on Stealth's rollers in march. I'd say it's possibly giving a little more now as I've since replaced the MAF sensor and throttle potentiometer and feels way quicker now. I'd be extremely pleased if I also see 213bhp! Incidentally, the most powerful standard VR6 Stealth have seen was 212bhp. Kev

You need one of these. Excuse the state of my car and the crudeness of the brackets, but it's held very firmly in place and is deadly effective. Kev

Cheesy, fantastic mate. I would agree with the majority of folks here in that the styling is, err, interesting (said in the politest possible way) but the mods have been very well executed and the front lights look superb. Great paint finish too. There can't be that many Cs on the Channel islands, let alone one as unique as yours! Give yourself a pat on the back 8) Kev

Do 1.8s have 1 peice top mounts like the MK2 Golf? VR6 mounts will go on anyway and are much stronger than MK2 mounts. You need to order the bearing and the rubber donut as they are seperate items. You may also need the VR6 top plates. I fitted some VR ones to one of my MK2 Golfs no problem, so you shouldn't have any problems on your valver. Yes they are a bit stiffer but you won't feel it through the column. Kev

Yes Corrado shells do suffer from lateral twist, as do MK1, MK2 and MK3 Golfs. Nothing to worry about. The only car I've had that didn't do it was an E30 BMW 325i tourer. Astounding build quality. You wanna know just how much your chassis twists? Jack up one side at the front and try and open/close the door. The only way to completely erradicate it is to fit a roll cage. Front and rear braces, especially a triangualted rear, do help a lot though. Kev

That's true, I do less than 6K a year in my car! Kev

Indeed, you need one of these:-

Two more pics:

Sorry, they are £45+ VAT. Had conflicting advice from a few dealers. How do you know if you need one? Flat spots and hesitancy at particular rev ranges, normally around 2000rpm. Why? Because the carbon resistor tracks wear down. The MAF and throttle pot work in tandem with one another, and each can run the engine independantly of eachother but for maximum performance and engine refinement, both items must be fully operational. The MAF only needs to be 0.2V out of range to muck up the fuelling, so go easy on the K&N oil. The MAF is ny on impossible to diagnose, even when hooked up to an oscilliscope (waveform analysis), so when it's dead, it's dead and VAG-COM will not report it unless the unit is totally and utterly shafted. HTH Kev

The late controls are fine so long as the heater cables aren't stiff/jammed. Some Passat ones have an extra lever which can be deleted if desired. The Passat one also has a 5 pin fan connector, Corrados have 6 pin connectors but the 6th pin is inactive, so don't be put off by that upon initial inspection. You also need to swap the passat optics over with the Corrado ones and the fan swich. But these steps are only strictly necessary if you want to maintain the original corrado look and feel. I paid £10 for two good passat controls, so they are very cheap but many Passat ones in the scrappers are busted also, which is a pain. I had to look through 8 passats to get mine. Kev

Just to make you sicker...I paid £450 comp for my MK2 Golf 16V Turbo with a 220bhp engine limit from Brentacre insurance. I could do ANYTHING I like to the car, except a roll cage and it wouldn't affect the premium 8) Ring Kerry or John and ask for a quote. Their number is in PVW somewhere. Cheers Kev

And here:- http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=3373 Also click on picture below. What happens is the screen vent cable jams causing all sorts of problems with the vent direction knob. You'll need to replace the cable if it can't be moved in and out easily by hand. It costs £9 and is called the 'defroster cable' at VW. I warn you now, it is a real b#stard to get to and the dash needs a partial strip down :cry: Kev

Yeah Tornado red had pigment problems which VW never cured, not sure if it applies to Flash (?) red though? If you're brave 'Color sanding' can be done on flat paints (non-metallic) which basically means the whole car is sanded down with 1500-1800grit wet and dry and then buffed with electric buffers afterwards. Sounds scary, but the results are astounding. It's not a common practice in this country but in Mexico a team of 4 guys go over the car with wet and dry etc and have the car ready after half a day. Amazing. Kev Kev

You'll need 2 tubs of G12+ if doing a drain and reflush. Don't use too much coolant additive as it reduces the water's ability to absorb heat and this country will never see - 40 degrees. Draining is simple - Undo expansion tank cap, detach top and bottom rad hoses, unscrew block drain plug (which is on the long plastic pipe on the block face, above and to the left of the oil filter housing) and let it all flow out! Don't get the old or new coolant on your hands, it's very unpleasant stuff. Flush through with a hose for a while throught the expansion tank and then replace the drain bung and rad bottom hose. Now the *IMPORTANT* bit: To avoid an air lock, fill up the engine via the rad top hose, and NOT the expansion tank. Keep pouring it in (you'll hear the air escaping out of the expansion tank - a good thing) until you see fluid appear in the expansion tank. Replace top hose. Drive for 20 mins. Top up the following morning. Done. Kev

Err, 35mm front, 30mm rear I think, on H&R sport (green) springs. H&R springs are normally very pliant but they're not progressive wound, they just have inactive coils that make them 'look' progressively wound. They're firm but not overly hard. Koni just f'cked up the valving. I wouldn't be surprised if Koni are just rebuilding old returned ones, repainting them and shipping them out as new. At the moment, the ride is really good - but only because the dampers have burst. You can tell straight away when a Koni is shot because it makes phssshht noise over bumps, which it shouldn't do as it's an oil damper. Kev

his dont start untill 20bhp so yours wont even show up :lol: :lol: :lol: Oi, that's harsh....I know I only have 16bhp and 8lb/ft torque under my right foot but there's no need take the michael :lol: Only 1 cylinder on the VR6 powers the car, the other 5 just supply hot water for the heater..... not a lot a people know that, guv. Kev

A2 = MK2 Golf/Rabbit. Use a new Mocal, I wouldn't personally fit a used oil cooler. You don't know what might be inside it that could contaminate the engine. Cheers Kev

You don't need the wipers on a 1/4 mile car :D It is a fab install and what you can't see is the sequential gearbox! Kev

First guess is the Idle valve! £133.50 + VAT from Eurocar parts :cry: 2nd guess - Is your engine the distributor variety? Could be something to do with that. Synopsis - Idle valve problems on the VR normally manifest themselves as bad starting or initial over-revving when fired up, after a few cranks, along with rev bouncing on the overrun and coarse engine running at low rpm. Final guesses! - The engine sensors (engine speed, cam position etc) normally cause problems when the engine is up and running, so it can only be the idle valve - or you have a horrendous air leak, or a major fuelling issue. Suggestion - If you can hook it up to a diag machine, check for N71 (idle valve) errors. Kev

Here's his MK1 with the 8V G60 but it's now got a 340bhp 16V G60 in it! I'm struggling to find the specs for the 8V motor as it was done approx 5-6 years ago! The car is a work of art. Notice the Corrado fogs/indicators in the Clipper bumper and the stretched (by 60mm) bonnet, to accomodate the huge full frontal intercooler. The guy is a genius. He's the chap in the stripey shorts. Kev

H&R springs are way too hard for standard shocks. They really need matching with H&R or Koni dampers and then the ride quality and handlng are spot on. Just watch out for duds if using Konis :( Kev