Kevin Bacon

Blimey, where to begin? The VR is notorious for coolant problems. Mine did exactly as you describe and it turned out to be a duff thermostat that was intermittently jamming shut. The coolant level would be fine for a while, then it would spit loads out of the expansion tank (look for water marks around there) and then level off again. I changed out the thermostat and it's been fine ever since. The VR6 coolant system is quite complex & troublesome. It consists of twin two speed fans, an electric aux pump that activates at 107 degrees and when the igntion is on plus on the after-run program. These pumps are prone to failure and leaks. It's next to the coil pack. You should hear it whirring with the ignition on (engine off). Are there any obvious coolant leaks? Does the fluid in the expansion tank smell of exhaust gases? Kev

But you also have over 20lbft of torque more.... :lol: If you use the torque of the engine to pull you round the corner you will more than likely go into understeer......... :? That's the problem with open diffs :? You can push any Corrado hard round the bends but common sense prevails. I personally like the weighty feel of the VR6. It's confidence inspiring and compared to the flyweight Ford Ka my other half owns, it feels like it's forged from solid granite. Kev

I drove Mr Haywire's car the other day and ever since my G60 has felt like a big heavy noisy lump! :? Kind words Mr Basmati, but the old girl still isn't 100%. I'm really not sure what's up with her. After our fun and games at junctions etc, the idle valve is definitley up the swanny. It's cut out on me a few times too :x Your motor pulled hard in the power band mate and it still feels tight to me. I reckon your charger could do with an overhaul to restore the low end back to it's former glory as for some reason, even my VR6 feels livlier at the bottom end, it should be the other way round :? Kev

I've only replaced things on my car to satisfy my pursuit for perfection, so strictly speaking, many of the things I've done weren't strictly necessary. The car is better for it though. The only essential job I've had to do on it was to change a jammed thermostat. To sum up the Corrado VR6 I'd say, Engine and Chassis are Peaches, trim and ancilleries are total lemons. Kev

That's a good point. Ovalised or dented wheels are often over looked as potential culprits. Might be worth swapping the rear wheels with the fronts and see if that helps. Kev

Replacing the chains and the tensioners is a quite a chore and it's the labour involved in dropping the gearbox (good time to include a clutch change) and removing the inlet manifold, rocker cover etc that adds up. The parts themselves aren't that expensive. I don't know how much the overall cost is but bargain on 5 hours labour + parts + VAT. The box has to be dropped because the flywheel has to come off to access the lower chain etc. Sounds like a daft strategy of VW's but it was the only way to make the VR6 engine compact enough to fit in the engine bay and a one off bill at 100K isn't THAT bad. Audi have used the same method (no cam belt) with the V8 so that it fits in the A4. Guess what owners of this car will need doing at 100K? Also, E30 BMW M3 owners face exactly the same problem at 100K also. But it'll cost them a £1000 :( So it's not just VW that have crazy ideas! If you're planning on keeping the car for a few years, it's worth doing. If not I wouldn't worry about it. They don't always go at 100K, that's just the general finding over years of the things going wrong! Kev

Didn't Lancia use that exact method with it's Delta Intergrale EVO 3 or something? A real monster by all accounts! Kev

Funny how when a female related thread is generated, we suddenly get two newbies on claiming they are girls. Or am I just being too cynical? That's the only problem with forums, anyone can sign up pretending to be the King of Oman or something! Prove it by introducing yourself and your car in the members gallery!! Kev

VR6 engine mounts are solid rubber front and rear. Only the gearbox one has the cr#ppy viscous fluid in it. VR6 head gaskets are known to weep. Have you checked around the head? Kev

Quite alright, everyone's entitled to their own opinion! Glad you've had good results with your testing. I've seen two pace chargecoolers in action, one on a 2.0G60 and the other on a 300+bhp 1.8T and on both occasions, the level of cooling was way off what an intercooler would provide. In fact, on the 1.8T engine, a full size car radiator was used during road testing for the chargecooler and inlet charge temperature remained constant. It just simply wasn't up to the job of cooling the engine's charge. Utter cr#p for the money. And that was my learned opinion :lol: Kev

Turbo definitely :lol: Wouldn't touch a G lader if it was the last forced induction device left on earth. Kev

The G60 weighs 1160Kg. I'm with you Joe on the VR nose heaviness but you can't tell these heathens can you :lol: Kev

Have you got a good dentist then? Kev

If you buy the most excellent VAG-COM, you can do all the engine and brake diagnosis work yourself and just order the parts accordingly. I'd say a good 80% of all common corrado faults can be rectified by any competent DIY mechanic. The VR6 is a little more tricky due to the timing chains (gearbox off job) and the lack of space in under the bonnet but a little patience and tenacity pays off. Here on the forum, we have amassed a vast pool of data, common faults, hints and tips, recommendations etc etc. So there is no need to be afraid of buying a Corrado VR6, or ANY corrado because we're here to help and the Corrado is just a big pussy cat under those aggressive lines. Did you know the humble Ford Galaxy V6 shares many of the ancilleries and mechanicals as the Corrado/Golf VR6? And Ford being Ford, the parts will invaribly be cheaper. The key to successful Corrado ownership without filing for section 21 receivership, is knowing where to look for parts and who to speak to about fitting them. You've done the first step and found THE Corrado forum.....now go and buy that VR6 Kev

http://www.turn2usa.com/Merchant2/merch ... gory_Code=

Only change the serpentine belt if it's knackered. They cost £28+VAT You can tell when it's on it's way out because the flat side will start cracking and look very shabby. The water pump runs off the flat side, so it's kind of critical to keep an eye on the old serpent! I can't see the point in paying £200 for a dealer service personally. On a car over 10 years old, FSH adds virtually nil to the car's value. Kev

There's not an awful lot on the 16V [engine] that's really expensive to be honest, so you should be OK! Kev

I had a MK1 16V also and you're not going to get much lighter than that! Saving weight all depends on what you're prepared to sacrifice. For starters you could lose all of the interior except the dash essentials and the driver's seat. But would you be happy sitting in a bare metal shell with no soundproofing and nowhere for passengers to sit? There are other ways - billet brakes, magnesium alloys, titanium exhausts, GRP body panels etc etc but these cost mega bucks. I would recommend you keep the creature comforts and look at increasing the engine's power output instead. Kev

I dont think they do the chronos in a 16", 15 or 17's only. :x Arse, Oh well, not to worry. Kev

No offense to anyone that has 18s fitted but I stand by it. 18s just look silly on a Corrado imo. I just don't understand the mentality of it. VW produced arguably one of the finest handling cars ever, and some folk just seem intent on ruining it by fitting huge wheels. They're more interested in the challenge of actually squeezing them under the arches than what affect it would have on the handling. Wheels are always bottom of my priority list. Start with the suspension and go from there. Not fit 18s and then spend a fortune hacking the car to peices so that they fit. Steps off soap box...... :?

Do you need a strut brace is the question and here is the answer:- Tie a piece of cotton across the two front suspension towers (use the damper threads or something) and leave it slightly saggy in the middle. Now go out and give the car death round the corners. Back at home, lift the bonnet and if the cotton is snapped, you need a strut brace. If not, you don't. Kev

Have a look in a Corrado handbook, it's in there. I'd look in mine for you but I'm at work. I do know that the VR6 weighs 1210Kg though. The G60, suprisingly, isn't much lighter, about 40-50Kg difference IIRC. Kev

VR6s use MK3 Golf 'plus' running gear, which has longer wishbones. Easily identifiable by the 5 stud hubs. Kev

'Sealed' would assume you cannot get inside the "unit" to change fluid though. Dunno what he's talking about. Ah....unless he means the oil pressure relief valve or something? Probably best to ring your mechanic and clarify what he was talking about. Kev

From what I've read about your car Dalek, I think you're going to have to budget for a full suspension overhaul. Mine did exactly as you describe on back roads and even now, after replacing the dampers, bushes, springs, top mounts etc, it still does it a little. Golfs/Corrados just generally clonk about and feel sloppy over bumps. I bet there's not one Corrado owner that hasn't heard a knock from their suspension! I once had a MK2 16V and changed every single suspension component possible, including the upper and lower steering column bearings, steering rack bushes, steering rack itself, ball joits, tie rod ends, you name and it STILL clonked and felt sloppy. You just can't win, get it as best you can and just drive the car and not worry about it. Kev