Chris M

Sound like a worn bush to me, i'd check them all before getting a 4wheel settup.

I thought this was going to be a thread about a really hard to get off exhaust :lol:

Bit of Tcut will sort that :shock: If that was my missus she'd better be better at giving head than she is at driving

I did the grind the two stops off on my front wipers but they sill jump off the screen at high speed So what I’ve done is weld a small m4 nut to the inside about 6mm further up than where the spring used to attach and hooked the spring around that and it works a treat. Had a quick squirt up to 110 in the rain tuther day (private road blah blah) all in the name of science and perfect wipe was achieved. You need to flatten the bit where the flat arm kicks up to accept the spring because the new mounting point makes the main part of the spring clash with it, I just put it on some cardboard and used a hammer and chisel.

same thing happened to me but my one looke like it had been eaten by battery acid and had a 5" corroded section down its length, half a roll of gafa tape later and all was fine apart from looking like crap.

I personally think the back of lee's car looks like a renault 11, sorry. I am with H8RRA and others, in making a car punch above its weight on the road and achiving as much as possible with your own two hands. But you are builing a show car and i understand that a car in a field being looked at is nothing to do with performance and all to do with looking good. A mag feature is a different story, this should take every aspect of a modded car into accound before labeling it " The best corrado in the world" but i suppose thats max PoVWer for you.

H8RRA :notworthy:

in the VW

yeah 1p per ron, i think i'll wait for the tesco's stuff

just found this clicky. Gives a list of tesco's selling it. there is some other funny stuff on there, not sure about the ECU thing might have to give that a try lol

i bought a compressor from my local tools shop to run a die grinder and they just kept running flat in no time, i they let me try a few larger ones and the same thing until they got into silly money, so i went to my local scrapy and bought this monster for £50 and all it needed was a new pump, that i got from machine mart for £100. So far its laped up everthing i've ran off it. its still suprising how little it needs to top up even when running a die grinder for hours at a time. you get rather cold hands though :lol:

No way now i know. After buying some rims from Awsome for my mk1 years ago, i was lying on my back fitting a new chin spoiler when i noticed one wheel stuck out further. I went back to awsome and kicked off big style saying they had sold me wheels with different offset and i'd had them painted and the rims polished. Any way they checked the rims OK spent half a day measuring the car from top to bottom to make sure it wasn't twisted, all OK. I ended up just forgetting about it. Cheers for that

alls not lost mate, you can leave the zaust ports as are, just ruff up the inlets abit. at least you know before putting it back together Edit: nice car by the way and at least your having a go

Sorry dude but I think you've polished the ports too much. You need a slightly ruff appearance for the same reason a golf ball is covered in dimples. Its to cause a cushion of turbulence just above the surface and allow the air in the centre to flow freely, with a highly polished surface it will create drag throughout the whole cross section of the port and hurt the flow and performance. Have a read of this http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb120121.htm

here's a test for you'r rings, with it up to running temp get some one to sit in and hold the revs at 3000rpm for 2-3mins, if the rings are worn it will blow clean at first then it will blue smoke after a min or so and gradually get worse depending how bad they are.

usually its in my pocket or in the door, i'll try it in different places and see what happens. thanks for the help.

yes my spoiler still works fine, the speedo only ever realy played up at higher speeds so it never dipped low enough to send it back down. every time i think about electrics is sends waves of dread over me, all i see is a bird nest of wires, give me some thing mechanical with moving parts and i'm happy as larry. after nearly having a bashboard fire in both my mk1 and mk2 due to the headlight switch electrics realy scare me.

Its a 91 with a speedsensor but the speedo seems to have repaired itself now and its just revs. after getting home last night i just sat and watched it for a bit with the MFA rev couner on aswell and they are both the same, they keep dipping and going off now and again like its loosing signal but the revs are stedy. i've never had the clocks out, but i have recently fitted a new head unit, come to think about it it was about the time the speedo stoped playing up. but that was 3 weeks ago and the rev counter only started playing up a couple of days ago. any idea where the earth point is. thanks

I'm wondering if you guys can help, My C g60's clocks have started waving at me, about a month ago my speedo started dancing about everytime i went over 80 it would go about 20mph each way, and at normal speeds just tootling it would jump about 5mph evertime i came off the throttle, this was intermitant. Now the gremlin seems to have started waving at me from the rev counter and the speedo is rock steady again. The rev counter seems ok after first starting it up but gradually gets worse, as i put my foot down it becomes very eratic once warm. Every VW i've owned seems to have had rev counter deth at some point, i'm starting to think i give off some sort of rev counter fecking field :cry:

Car: G60 Exhaust: stainless steel Scorpion with some home made Cat Bypass all fitted by the previous owner Opinion: crap crap crap. Rattled, knocked and started melting the baffle box under the back seat. Due to not being able to aford a new system, i chopped it up and open at work (what a crap design they are inside no wonder it was melting) and now i have a custom system and decat, 90% improvement, get 5mpg better fuel also. Nice tail pipe though

holy shat you could have a shave in that. god i'm slow at typing, i started /\ that when it was on page one Edit: doh, note to self make sure there aren't more that one page before repying to the first page :oops:

When I did mine I went too far, the little black mark I was trying to grind out turned out to be a hole :oops: and I had to get it welded. If I was going to do another I’d have striped it down and had the cavities filled with weld first and take it that little bit further. On mine I knife edged the back side as well to minimise turbulence. Another good thing to do while its off for those with the boost return mod, if you've removed all the carbon canister related vac pipes is to fill the vac pipe hole situated just under the boost return valve with chemical metal, as this acts like blowing over the top of a beer bottle and you would not believe how quiet this makes it. I’ve done this and with 600mm of 45mm bore rubber hose on the return, all you hear is the dump valve noise changing gear after W.O.T. You just need to make sure before the stuff sets that it not in the way of the valve closing or else you won’t be able to get full boost.

fire&iceG60, i tried to take pics with my mobile but they were no good. i'll do some proper step by step ones when i do my mates. gibber, the same one unit can do both? if so thats a bonus it means i can have the rear wiper back all year round, just hope the group buy goes through coolrado, yes mate finer spray would give a more even coverage. i think the proper kits spay in a fine mist. it would be hard to replicate the air flow of driving on the rollers.

A cossy driving friend of mine gave me this idea and it couldn't be easier. He says people have been doing it to cossy's for ages so some may have all ready heard of it. This is what I did. Go down local scrappy find 2l 8v pinto motor from any ford ganny/siera etc. Remove rocker to find the oil rail that squirts oil onto the cam, this is what you want. Find a golf grab a load of window washer piping (the clear rubbery stuff) and a 'T' piece. Now you can either go for a separate washer bottle and pump setup or do what I did. Pay the man. I chopped my oil rail in half so I had 2 L shapes and discarded the centre section. then I removed the bumper and got the I/C duct, drilled 2 holes so I could pass one half from left to right and 2 holes to pass one half from bottom to top. You can bend the flat ends of the oil rail so that you can use the mounting holes the screw them at the right angle to hit the cooler. I slid a piece of rubber hose up the oiler to block off the first hole on each half so that I had 3 more central jets rather than 4 with 2 right at the edge, but after thinking about it might be better to go corner/corner and use all 8 jets. The way I have done it is to disconnect the back wiper so that its not dry wiping every time I squirt the cooler and plumed it up straight off the washer bottle rear window pump outlet and then T'd the two half’s together. And you can still wash the front window I’m only going to use this during the warmer months so I’ve just stuck water in the bottle, when it starts getting colder I’ll stick screen wash back in and hook up the back wiper again. Any way on the way to All types yesterday I was trying it out against my mate in his g60 (who I’ve usually got the edge on) and every time we hit a clear stretch of road I’d start pulling away slightly, then I’d press my wiper stalk forward and all I can say is guess what were doing to his car next weekend :lol: Its not torque in a bottle but it’s a noticeable improvement If any one need any more info PM me.

yes most people over here quote flywheel figures, i personally hate it, because if your car isn't putting it on the road then the only thing a flywheel figure is good for is bragging. i don't really trust flywheel figures. at least with @ wheels figure the dyno has interpreted what was put on its rollers (1 calculation) where as to get the flywheel figure it all gets very confusing, frictional losses from the transmission, tyre losses and all sorts are taken into account. if you ask me its just an educated guess.