Chris M

that could have been me :D, i've been on holiday in north wales and went to anglesey on saturday, putting some miles on my fresh charger. not sure though heading from llanbedr a4085 and a487 towards bangor

i was loading the shoping into the boot on an asda carpark and saw a couple walking upto there pug, the bloke just stood staring key in hand, when i heard his bird say "are you going to let me into the car or what"his reply was "corrado", and as we drove past the back of there car i saw him dislocating his head to watch us drive down the car park. made me smile

my charger is at G-Werks as we speek, can't fault him. he is pulling out all the stops to make sure i get it back for Thursday so i can go on holiday in it on friday after TNT let me down on the delivery. he is even chucking in a new oil feed line, some thing jabba didn't replace when it was s4'd, so far i feel like a proper valued customer. top marks Darren

PeteJ that could have been me its a black g60 and i live in Hanley what time was it?

most i've ever got is 34 on the MFA (never actually done it the old fasiond way) My lady recons she's had 38 out of it. don't you just know how many times i've heard that.

most people don't apply copper grease and most tyre fitters wouldn't know a torque wrench if it hit them in the face or that there impact gun has more than one setting. its just worth thinking about if you apply the same ft/lb's to a plated greased bolt you are you are applying 2x the holding down force of the same ft/lb's on a dry old bolt and are running the risk of cracking the alloy bolt seat. the info is there take it or leave it

hi, some might already know this but i thought i'd share anyway. you need to be carefull with your alloys when using a grease or lubicant on your wheel bolts, because the torque needed is reduced. torque is twisting force and the bolt aplies pressure in a horisontal direction if you know what i mean. the reduction in torque goes like this:- - No lube, steel 0% - Plated and cleaned 34% decrease - SAE 20 oil 38% - SAE 40 oil 41% - Plated and SAE 30 45% - White grease 45% - Dry moly film 52% - Graphite and oil 55%

i had the same problem with my mk1 after spinning it and loosing a 6in chunk out of the rim on a kerb, turns out the previous owner had stuck a vauxhall steely in as a spare but i couldn't even get the bolts to catch. ended up limping it into work and borrowing a workmate's mk2 spare. it wasn't like i was going to make any more of a mess of it lol if they are non standard vauxhall alloys though you should just be able to get the plastic spigot rings to suit.

i thought about using some kind of metallic leaf but not sure how well it would work check this website out http://www.tryrelics.co.uk/catalogue/K/02 i wonder what the hologram metal foil would reflect like. 8)

This is all providing that the petrol station is actually filling the tanks with super and not just sticking bogo unleaded in and charging you super prices, i have it on good authority that it happens at at least 2 stations around my area.

yes thats the same part number i found on Etka but it is the same part number as the mk2 beam bushes on Etka

Hi, I'm trying to get my head around this passive rear beam bush malarky after owning a couple of mk1's and a mk2 i'm not sure if i just need to get used to the fact the the backend does more that just get draged around but so far i don't like it, so i've decided to replace the bushes for new ones to see if they are worn (after 120K) and moving too much. i've looked on etka for the part number and it apears to be the same as the mk2 items (191 501 541) and also spoke to the guys at euro car parts and found the same? can any one shed any light on what the difference is or am i just looking at the wrong bush. i need to sort this soon because christmas week is going to be the only time i will get chance to work on it. oh its a 91 g60 thanks, chris.

sound like he knows what he's doing. the best way to hear the click is to croutch by the door and listen by the lock mech from out side the car.

lol now you say that i can remember my lady getting stuck in the car after the remote went off in my pocket as i walked into the house, i was wondering what was taking so long then the alarm started going off. she was having a right good flap trying to get the pin to come up PMSL :lol:

feels like ages when you are waiting for it, when i first heard it i tought it was unlocking its self lol don't think i've ever actually locked or unlocked it with the key. it must be something electrical because surely the pump can only blow or suck?

mine does the 30sec lock thing, i've never stood at the back though to see if the pump makes any noise i just hear the lock click. its got a full closure scorpion alarm!

oh forgot to say you need to wagle the socket off before you fully unscrew the bolt otherwise you will have a nightmare trying to get the socket off the bolt. leave it screwed in quite a way so you don't wreck the thread in the hub.

the tyre fitters way... get an old spline type socket that’s not too big as it goes over the locker but not too small, and get your finest 5lb persuader and hammer the socket over the locker so that the splines cut into the edge. then just breaker bar them off. if they have the rotating sleeves you will need to chisel them off with a screwdriver before doing the above method I found this out after a tyre fitter did my lockers up with his impact wrench and when I came to undo them all the teeth sheared off the key so I went back and they got the hole set off in under 10mins this way and payed for a new set. I’m not a wheel blighter honest but it has come in handy afew times since Chris.

yes i have removed the carbon canister but did't put it back on when i put the boost return back on because i've used the hole for a cold air feed when i first took the boost return off i was driving it heavy footed just to hear the noises lol :oops: but like i said its been off for 2 months now and i've been driving like i've got a glass accelerator lately because i can see my bank balance lol

cheers henny

need to speek to G-Werks any way, so i'll see if he can shead some light on it. what sort of MPG figures are other people getting with removal kit on? sorry G60jet if i've hijacked your thread maybe i should have started a new one :oops:

Even if there was a leak where the plate meets the charger it wouldn't make any difference apart from drawing in un filtered air. If you think about it the fact that there is pressurized air being forced into the charger all be it warm, it has to be helping it spin plus surely the charger wont have to work as hard to pressurize already pressurized air thus taking loads of drag off the crank when not at full throttle. That’s my logic any way. I just can't see any other explanation for the fact that my MPG has doubled over night and that is the only think that’s changed.

Hi, I’ve had my g60 4 months now and in that time I’ve had the boost return removed for 2 of those months. I do love the sound it makes and have noticed the difference it makes when going through the gears, it seems a lot more lively as you enter your next gear. BUT and it’s a big BUT The fuel economy is absolutely SHAT it even made me consider getting rid of the car, but I thought I’d try it back on again and thank fook alls well again. with the boost return removed with a blanking plate on the charger and two filters on the breather and the ISV (until i could get a catch can) the car wouldn't do any better than 18mpg and that was serious Miss Daisy driving on BP Ultimate. On Saturday I thought I’d try it on again, so I piped it all back up and Sunday I was helping a mate move house (Corrado not the ideal car I know) but anyway did quite a lot of stop starting and a few blasts up and down my local duel carriageway but mostly round town driving and it was never below 26mpg and averaged 34mpg at the end of the day. I know there are other benefits to this mod and the noise is nice but i just cant justify the amount of fuel it was using, maybe when I’m more flush it might come off again. Just thought I’d let you guys know what I’d found and you can make your own decisions. I was going to start a new thread but found this one. Chris.

cheers, think i'm just going to hold on for a bit and get a new one from GPC.

does anyone on here know what plastic grade the 91 g60 chin spoiler is so i can get some rods to weld it with or even know of one for sale in good condition. cheers.