Chris M

That seal goes on the injector to seal it into the brown socket, your seals will probably look like part of the injector being so old, clean them up and you should see them at the top of the injector near the conection nut.

i had this problem with my boost tubes, it was mainly due to not having an edge to grip onto but partly due to the ptfe grease coming out of the newly built charger and getting in the joint. Giving them a good clean sorted it for a while but i ended up taking them off and using a small hammer over the edge of a vice, and rolled the edge out bit by bit until i had a slight trumpet.

This is what i've come up with (see pic) and its going just before the CO pot i'm not sure about them both being at the same point but i can always make another for somewhere else

I think it kind of goes 25bhp shot gives you about 25bhp and so on :wink: I heard you have to run your car stightly off tune to make the most of it when you use it, or have the systems improved since i then, or i'm i just talking through my brown eye.

No way, me and Rob spent ages down here on my computer trying loads of different words AND engine AND codes AND just AND about every thing we could think of AND found nothing.:wink:

A mate of mine was thinking about doing it in his M3, and worked out he needed 50K for entry, fines, toll roads, fuel and whatever else. He was trying to get me to buy some add space on the BMW :lol: Does anyone realy pay any attention to what the stickers are when you watch the DVD's, i don't. I'd love to do it though.

I'm not much for the later bonnet, my mate ben has a 92 g60 and next to my 91 g60 i think it looks like its had a front end shunt and bulged it.

Got this off another forum, there is some good info on there and i've signed the E-petition. http://www.fuelprotest.com/

Was just about to say use Elring, as far as non gen gaskets they are the best IMO, infact i was once told Elring make all VW's gaskets. Yep 16V's have sodium exh't valves also. To dispose of them you are supposed to cut inhalf, bung them in a bucket of water, stand back and wait for the reaction to stop. :lol:

I was thinking that. only realy 3 reasons i'd have removed the head. 1/ something went clatter, clatter bang 2/ oil/water burnage 3/ to port/polish it. if it ain't running right its always fuel/air/timing/electrical first. Good luck with it mate, atleast you will know your head is spot on after.

its a fair machine, but looks like its been sucking a lemon.

this might be a silly answer but are you sure the circlip hasn't fallen off gear stick, the one half way down the shaft under the trim.

On my flywheel there is an 0 with a line under it like this 0 | for the TDC mark, and the 6deg mark is just a line, but is quite hard to see because of the tipex :lol:

Try lineing up the tdc mark on the flywheel through the hole in the bell housing and then check the pulley in relation to the cambelt cover, because the flywheel will be correct but if the pully has moved it will be out. This is what mine looks like. you need to look realy hard to see the cam belt cover mark.

I think you need to take your RSR back off and rotate it 1 notch towards the engine so that it kind of points at the N/S strut top mount like this.

My 1850cc mk1 would hit the limiter in 5th as easy as it would in 3rd :lol: but that was only at about 120 due to a 1.6 gti box. Ive had the G60 corrado level pegging with a 2 door cossy when he hit the limiter in 4th @ 8k (and warmed the side of the car up with a 6ft flame) My car was giving all it had in 5th and was sitting at 6k. Acording to Quaife Speed calculator with the correct ratio's and tyre sizes it was 150. Gearbox:- t5 cossy box Tyre:- Michelin all patterns 205/55 x 15 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top Gear gives 23.683 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 189.461 MPH at 8000 RPM Engine speeds in top gear:- 30 MPH = 1267 RPM 40 MPH = 1689 RPM 50 MPH = 2111 RPM 60 MPH = 2534 RPM 70 MPH = 2956 RPM 80 MPH = 3378 RPM 90 MPH = 3800 RPM 100 MPH = 4223 RPM Top Speed in 1 gear = 51.379 MPH And changes into 2 gear at 5261 RPM dropping 2739 RPM Top Speed in 2 gear = 78.128 MPH And changes into 3 gear at 5526 RPM dropping 2474 RPM Top Speed in 3 gear = 113.111 MPH And changes into 4 gear at 5970 RPM dropping 2030 RPM Top Speed in 4 gear = 151.568 MPH And changes into 5 gear at 6400 RPM dropping 1600 RPM Top Speed in 5 gear = 189.461 MPH ****************************************************************************************** Gearbox:- g60 gearbox Tyre:- 205/40/r17 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top Gear gives 25.019 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 150.115 MPH at 6000 RPM Engine speeds in top gear:- 30 MPH = 1199 RPM 40 MPH = 1599 RPM 50 MPH = 1998 RPM 60 MPH = 2398 RPM 70 MPH = 2798 RPM 80 MPH = 3198 RPM 90 MPH = 3597 RPM 100 MPH = 3997 RPM Top Speed in 1 gear = 30.182 MPH And changes into 2 gear at 3365 RPM dropping 2635 RPM Top Speed in 2 gear = 53.815 MPH And changes into 3 gear at 3792 RPM dropping 2208 RPM Top Speed in 3 gear = 85.140 MPH And changes into 4 gear at 4343 RPM dropping 1657 RPM Top Speed in 4 gear = 117.616 MPH And changes into 5 gear at 4701 RPM dropping 1299 RPM Top Speed in 5 gear = 150.115 MPH ****************************************************************************************** Needles to say he still had another gear and cossy went by-by. Stopped for a chat with him later and got some cool respect (at the side of the track of cause)

Stuff like this makes me mad, i feel for you mate. I heard of a situation like this before (nothing to do with me honest) and one day the said youth whent missing, and found himself 50miles away outside a payphone with no clothes on and a 10pence piece gafa taped to his leg. Funny nothing ever happened again.

I'm having the same problem on my raddo, must be on my 3rd set this year. I've always used the same procedure to tighten them and never had this much trouble, must have changed 20+ sets on Vdubs in my time on my own and friends cars. I leave the caliper off and reattach the wheel then slowly tighten the nut untill there is no play side to side or top and bottom but the wheel still turns freely. I do just like you say stevemac and massage grease into the bearings and put plenty around them but never fill the cavity between the inner and outer bearings. Maybe i need a new bearing supplier.

My car was off the road when i bought it 18months ago, with a bolox'd engine, took me 2 weeks to fix it before i could even drive it for the first time :D luckily it hasn't let me down since (looks for some wood) anything that needed fixing i've done over night or at a weekend, so not really been put out.

What P's me off the most is the money they spend engineering these inverted potholes (speedbumps) when what they should be doing is using the time/tarmac/money filling in the proper pot holes. :mad:

What about a campain to honk your horn evertime you drive over one, not very fair on the local residents (the people that probably asked for them to be put in) but i'm sure as soon a s the complaints mounted up they would remove them.

I once did a head and a couple of weeks later it started smoking, it proper did my head in (excuse the pun) but it turned out to be just a faulty or not pressed on properly stem seal and it had poped off and was ridding up and down on the valve stem.

If you want to make it nice and quiet you need to fill the hole that tee's off the return valve just below the butterfly. This acts like blowing over the top of a beer bottle. You need to remove the TB to do a proper job and make sure when it sets it doesn't stop the butterfly from closing fully. I used Quick Steel and was very suprised at how quiet part throttle briving is now, but without loosing the dump valve noise on changing gear after full throttle 8) I wish i'd have taken some pics when i did it. :roll:

If you get someone to sit in and apply the foot brake on nice level ground and rock the car foward and back on the brake, the wheel should stay prety still in the arch, if there is a lot of movement then its going to be the wishbone bushes are gone and a new wishbone is needed. If its the anti roll bar (ARB) link bushes. These will be visible with the front wheel off, if where the ARB links to the wish bone looks like a dick in a top hat and not nice a snug, they need replacing. non are massive amounts of money but better to make sure than get the wheels aligned then need them doing again because the bushes where knackered the first time.

Any VW i like the look of i tend to give a nod. But i do wave at any mk1 golf's or any raddo's i see, and very rarely get a wave back, whats wrong with these people