Chris M

Personally I don't touch cross drilled discs with a barge pole the amount of stories I’ve heard from racing circles about the holes cracking and the discs breaking away from the hub :shock: nice Don’t care how good they look don't ever want to know what that feels like. I always go for brembo std replacement and pagid FR pads that’s what the mk2 had on all round that I part-ex'd for the corrado and the corrado's got cross drilled on, and i know for a fact that even though the corrado's discs are 24mm bigger the golf stopped sh1t loads better than the C the guy that’s got the golf now says he cant believe how well it stops. Even though the ones on the corrado have loads left on them I just want them the fek off the car.

:lol: turns white when mixed with water aswell does say on the tin can afect rubber and plastic but is safe on paint work.

i've allways used Jizer its good stuff, has rust protection in aswell.

Has any one had any experience with them. I've bought one for my N/A mk1 golf track car that I’m currently building (but is far from finished) My idea is that the Corrado will benefit a lot more than the N/A golf with the parasitic power loss that the charger takes from the engine, and may offset the load on the crank plus you get the added bonus of total control over the engine temp. Also adding an alternator cut off switch at WOT thus removing all but the charger load off the crank. apart from the PAS Oh dear i can see my poor golf getting forgotten about now I’ve bought this dam Corrado, why does it have to be so good. If this has been covered before sorry and please tell me to shut up. Chris.

henny, no worrys mate, i'm just a paranoid person anyway, but you are right i'd prefer to know for definate than have all the whatif's in the back of my mind or even worse the big if only :cry: just PM'd g-man.

Oh and the other thing is what sort of temps do you guys get, at the moment the oil temp never seems to go above 76, is this usual been as i haven't really driven it hard yet as the engine's only done 500 miles since rebuild. The bloke I bought the car off said he regularly got temp's up to 140 :shock: Just wondering it the fact that the bores are sleeved now might have some effect on heat transfer.

Cheers for the help But I thought charge coolers were between 80 & 100% more effective than intercoolers? Don't mean to knock anyone’s advice just don't want to spend the money then wish I’d bought a charge cooler. PhatVR6, how much would your mate take for that rallye intercooler? i don't know how much they usually go for. Henny, cheers for the advice but the cars been back on the road now for a week, got the car week last Wednesday and the engine was recon'd and running by Monday night. You've got me all paranoid now, i could do with g-man telling me how quick he could turn one round if i was to ship it down to him for inspection. this forced induction malarkey is totally new to me, I’ve always been a N/A man myself but superchargers have always interested me.

hi, nice forum i've just bought last weekend a 91 g60 corrado wich the bottom crank pully had fallen off, for my mk2 golf 8v and £1700, so far its cost me £500 to compleatly re-build the bottom end with a mk2 16v crank i had lying around, new big ends, mains, rings and sleaved bores reusing the old pistons. My budget was 1k to get the car back to life so i have £500 left. so could do with some advise as to where to spend the cash wisly. the car: its got a s4 charger chip and pully done by Jabba 5k ago de-cat pipe cone filter coil overs st/st exhaust cat back 17's my first thought was to buy a charge cooler, well just the cooler part and fabricate the coolant side myself. not too bothered about porting/polishing the head and manifolds as i will do that myself maybe next year some time. also could any one give me a ball park guid to what psi bhp and ft/lbs the car should be running with whats allready on thanks in advance. chris.