buttles

Timo, how easy was it to change the bushes?

Had buzzer come on on a Mk 3 golf years ago. full of oil. Turned out to be the oil pump inlet strainer getting clogged up. Regular oil changes helped. Don't know if Corrado has strainers. :?:

Was told by mate in Volkspares that only real way to bleed brakes is to pressure bleed them. did mine and felt much better. 25 quid or so

Had same problem a while ago. Plastic cable guide had cracked at top of cable run which let cable slip down giving false topping out of window.

Bottom two come from the front. Top two go to the calipers. Top right is very short as it attaches to the flexy pipe on near side of car. (UK)

Got the little sod. Leak from the pressure feed pipe where it joins the rubber pipe in engine bay (see above). Only leaks when cold and no pressure in pipe at first start. Start up again.....no leak. Second clip for now, getting new rubber pipe.

Started car this morning from cold and fuel seen in area (Under brake master cylinder) where plastic pipes join rubber ones that lead to fuel rail. Took air inlet tubing off for better access and by then the pipes were dry. Seems it only leaks when there is initially no fuel pressure. I could not tell if it was the pressure feed or return pipe that was leaking so got to wait a few hours to let the whole thing settle before trying again. Hopefully I can just cut and rejoin the pipes.

You sure you wern't looking at my VR6 Slot? Had exactly the same thing, same place and when I went back to look for leak... nothing! The sponge that protects the pipes as they enter the body channel had perished allowing the pipes to chaff on the body. Not worn through as far as I can tell. The union in the engine bay where they join to the rubber pipes were dry as well????? Going to try again today when the car is cold and been stood for a while as that is when I noticed it before. Agggggh

I think we crossed paths just now. Go with vag-com

Had the same thing a while ago, can't remember if it was the fuel pump relay or ECU relay but changed one of them and problem went instantly. (Think it was ECU relay)

Sure everybody is bored to death by now but to close......Relay 79 failure caused error code--power supply B+. Dont know if all euro VR6s are the same but ABS is a Teves 4 which is a standard servo assist system with traction control and abs added. The pump I have never runs except when the abs or traction control are needed. Very happy now fixed and all error codes deleted

Thanks all. Yes, seems to be ABS relay 79 (grey one) that is not closing. Won't be able to get one till monday to be sure. It cheked out on multimeter OK at the start but went back to it and it didn't close when bridged on battery. Doh!!

Got VAG-COM ABS code 00532 Supply Voltage B+ as well. Did anybody have an answer to that one. Tis the only fault that comes up but light is on and no ABS. 94 VR6

This is on a 94 UK VR6. The motor and guide rail are riveted in. They drill out easily enough, some did spin though. The puzzle is how to remove the whole assy from the car, with the window trying to drop on your fingers all the time (tape it up). Once out I fixed the cracked guide back into the runner with lock wire wrapped around. The only tool you will need is the riveting pliars and the correct sized rivets. The water membrane can be used again if you remove it with care. The window still makes a funny noise but goes all the way up.

Keep the area at the rear of the engine bay clear of leaves and crud. If that area is full it will direct any water straight down the air inlet for the fan. This showed as a wet passenger footwell

Did the same to me. The plastic guide on the cable runner had cracked allowing the cable to slip down the guide. You can bodge it back with wire but I had to remove the whole assy first. (rivets and all that)

Had to change bias valve a while ago and was told to tip the rear calipers to get all the air out (make sure the pistons dont come out cos they are a b.... to get back in)

Had same problem with passenger window. Turned out to be cable guide at top of runner cracked and allowed cable to slip down giving false topping out and juddering