VR6

You will notice that this thread is now roughly 2 pages shorter. Keep the thread on topic (and friendly!!) or it will just be locked, which is very unfair on the thread starter.

It's crossing my mind. I think the better alternative is to delete the drivel and leave what was, an interesting topic.

Good man Darren! Moving to General as well.

True Rob, the information isn't finalised yet. But, I would say that there isn't too much more information to be added - quite the opposite in fact, I'd say that some of the information will be pruned out.

This is kinda on-topic, so I'll put it in General.

You mean a 20VT with a G-lader?

MFA switch, Position 1 1 . Engine Map Code 2 . Country Code 3 . Speedo Drive Ratio 4 . Upper RPM Limiter 5 . Lower RPM Limiter 6 . Deceleration fuel shutoff pressure 7 . Segment Test MFA switch, Position 2 1 . Test sum of programmed bytes 2 . Intake manifold vacuum/pressure 3 . Engine RPM 4 . Momentary fuel consumption 5 . Signal from Speed sensor 6 . Oil temperature 7 . Ambient temperature HTH

Oh, and multiple accounts won't get you anywhere either, Chris. Edit: Oh I apologise in advance if there does happen to be another Corrado fan in your household.

Sending money to Europe isn't that expensive you know.

This one might be hard to beat.... A ex-colleague of mine now manages a country estate over here and they have a collection of classic cars and bikes. I went round one day when they were giving all of the cars and bikes a 6 monthly run. I drove (not that using all those levers and pedals is actually driving!) a car that had an insurance value of £1,000,000 :shock: Suffice to say, it was a very slow drive and not for very long - imagine writing that off!!!!

Shall we call you 'kingster' or just plain Russ?

This is the cut-down checklist I was talking about. http://members.lycos.co.uk/manxmuppet/Corrado%20Checklist.doc Would be more usefeul to actually print off and take with you to a viewing. Opinions?

Coil-pack is one that could be added Roddy - cheers. As for a few of the others, such as late/early style bodies/interiors, wheels etc - I think this might be straying a little bit from the purpose of becoming a buying guide. It seems to be turning a bit encyclopaedic (is that even a word? If not, it should be! :)). Question - should this thread maybe become a reference guide for Corrado facts (including the buyers guide & potential problems/fixes) and we have the separate word doc as the Buyers checklist?? Or should it stick to it's original purpose of a purely a buyers reference guide?

Cheers lee, James, Ice White, Steve, John, Rodders and Steve again. :D I'll update the thread in the morning. Thanks - keep them coming :)

You beat Rodders!!? Only kidding Roddy, mate ;) Yeah mystic blue is/was a Storm-only colour. Could be a respray I suppose. Nice looking motor anyway 8)

Cheers Rob - all added. Also added back in the G60 boost check with amended narrative re idle for UK cars. Keep the comments coming :) (Anyone reviewed the shortened checklist yet? :? )

Yeah I was thinking that about £300 might be the top-end but £200-£250 might be a more reasonable target. I'll stick em in all the classifieds I can think of, once I've agreed on some leathers. Cheers Alex - others opinions still welcome :)

Right, as some of you may know, I'm after some leathers for my C. (Thanks again for the offer of some Aberdeen Angus, Brian! :D ) What I really have no idea about, is how much I would get for my cloth interior. It is absolutely mint with no worn bolsters, rips, burns etc etc. It had the centre arm-rest in the back. Colour is as per the picture. I suppose it would appeal to people looking to replace their worn interiors or to people who want to stick it in a different dub as a project car. But what's it worth, and would it sell???

Don't worry Steve, the comment was taken in the context it was intended. Criticism is welcome as well :) I think now that it's probably best to leave out the boost check. Do people actually do this when looking at potential G60's? The boost check information will still be available on the forum but it's probably a bit unnecessary in the buying guide. What do you/others think?

All comments taken into consideration - thanks guys. At this point, I'm adding as much info as possible so that later on, the information deemed not so important, can be preened out. I have also prepared a chop-down version as a Word document. This would be more useful to take with you for a car viewing, whereas the above list is more of general guide, which includes costs and more detailed descriptions. Could you review the Checklist and let me have any comments please? Cheers

Great stuff - thanks David. Amendments made.

thats a great check list VR6, i agree with this perhaps change to idle around 400-500??

Steve, Re the boost-check - this is just something I had copied into the guide as it seemed to help someone in the past. I think if the information in it is going to be open to criticism, then it's probably best to remove it. I'm sure if some of the G60 experts want to come up with a UK/USA/Euro version, then this would be much appreciated. :?: Re the Colour - I didn't say that the fading reds was unique to VW ;), but I can add a little bit in so that Volkswagen feel a little better :) Cheers Jim:) Dr Mat, Fogs and Indicator prices - Cheers, very useful. Suspension - Noted, I will try and shift the emphasis onto finding a car with a good standard setup. I considered adding that if the car had neon washer jets, that you should walk away ;) Re guide comments in general - I was also thinking this when I was starting out. Do you have as much info as possible and leave out the 'assumed' car-checking advice? Or do you include everything you can think of that you might check when buying a Corrado? You say 'the main things' - what do you think the guide could do without, in that case? Cheers Phat, and thanks again everyone else - keep them coming

Thanks a lot for the input Rodders. Exactly the sort of stuff I'm after! I know it's a lot to trawl though, and obviously what is probably stopping most people from contributing, but hey ho. I'll update tomorrow as it's getting a bit late now. :)

Right I've spent quite a bit of time hashing together, formatting, and part writing, a buyers guide for the Corrado. This can hopefully be used to answer every new person to the site that asks the age-old question. What do I need from you? I need people to read through the guide as it is, and post to let me know: Amendments [/*:m:17bcb] Things to be added in [/*:m:17bcb] General improvements, such as formatting [/*:m:17bcb] New sections [/*:m:17bcb] Thanks Corrado Buying Guide Body & External Check for accident damage around inner wings and the boot floor, including seams. The rear panel (above the spare wheel as you look in the boot) has a VAG sticker which gives all model information, if this has gone, the car may have had rear end damage and been rebuilt/resprayed. Rusty creases in the inner part of the front wings may mean the car has had some front end damage/repair. Above rear bumper - check that the two vertical 'seams' at each side of the rear panel are perfect, straight and even, with no bubbling/rust coming through (possible evidence of poor rear end damage repair). Also look for rust on the chassis and under the bonnet and door sills and check the valance under/behind the front bumper/lower spoiler for rust. Check body for: Scratches [/*:m:17bcb] Dents [/*:m:17bcb] Rust [/*:m:17bcb] Misaligned panels (inc doors, bonnet, boot) [/*:m:17bcb] Door handles are stiff. Can be replaced with Passat rear handles (de-locked) for around £10 each or genuine Corrado handles for approx £55 each! [/*:m:17bcb] Stone chips on the bonnet are quite common. Although this can just be an indication of motorway driving. For info:- Bonnet cross sections: Early style ------______------ Late Style ____----------____ [/*:m:17bcb] Lights for cracks including spots. Headlights for early models are £60+vat and £99+vat for later complete units. Headlight glass is 22.50+VAT from Euro Parts for both early and late models Fogs from GPC will cost approx £50 for early style and approx £75 for later style Indicators are about £50 new from VW, but can be had from scrap yards more commonly than "good" fog lamps. 2nd hand they seem to fetch about £25 the pair. [/*:m:17bcb] Chassis plates - check the VIN plate on the cross member at the back of the engine bay matches the log book and the sticker inside the boot [/*:m:17bcb] Colour code ("mailshot" size sticker on the inside of the rear panel with the relative colour code or an orange-red smallish sticker on the inside of the o/s/f wing) & also a sticker insider the drivers side door pillar. [/*:m:17bcb] Wipers are notoriously poor – possible remedies include modding the existing setup or using Lupo wipers, which would be a bonus if already done Colours/Codes See attached list for colour codes and details VW's (amongst others) reds are quite infamous for fading/going pink. A good check to see if the colour can be recovered is to rub a wet finger on the paint – if it regains some of it’s colour, the odds are that it can be recovered with cutting compound treatment Interior [/*:m:17bcb] Look out for ripped/worn/saggy seat bolsters [/*:m:17bcb] Sunroof – does it tilt and slide. Any scratching to the paint on the external side of the sunroof Passat glass sunroof can be used as a direct replacement [/*:m:17bcb] Check for damp carpets in the footwells – could be due to heater matrix or could need new inner door membranes If its passenger side (RHD) check that leaves, pine needles etc have not blocked the drains by the bulkhead, as in hard rain the bulkhead area can fill up and overflow into the ventilation intake. Cheap fix! [/*:m:17bcb] Leather is a sought after extra. Available in Black, Cream, Grey [any more?] and on the Campaign model, Brick-Red (but you’ll be lucky to find one of the 6 available Campaign interiors or cars. [/*:m:17bcb] Check the headlight switch action is smooth and accurate - they run warm and this can make the plastic brittle. If its notchy or wobbly, it could be about to snap inside and a new one is expensive. Used one, less so, but rare. Alternative is a bottle of superglue and a quiet night in. [/*:m:17bcb] First aid kit in centre arm-rest (if applicable) - can be replaced with other first aid kits for around £30 [/*:m:17bcb] Warning triangle in rear seat back (zipper at top) - can be bough from dealers for around £20 [/*:m:17bcb] Check that the ventilation control panel functions competely. The fan should work in all four positions and the "direction" dial should also work. For later (dial type panel) a replacement is over £200 and slider type panel used on early cars is no longer available from VW Wheels & tyres [/*:m:17bcb] Kerbed alloys [/*:m:17bcb] Worn tyres (especially uneven wear) [/*:m:17bcb] Missing centre caps [/*:m:17bcb] Signs that the wheels are fouling the arches [/*:m:17bcb] Check the condition of the spare wheel, and more importantly, that it has one! Also check that the jack, wheel-brace, spanner and screwdriver are present All 4 cylinder (2.0 8v, 1.8 16v, 2.0 16v and 1.8 G60) models have 4-stud hubs and all VR6's have 5-stud hubs. Suspension [/*:m:17bcb] Listen for any knocking sounds from the suspension and check to see if there is any leakage from the dampers. [/*:m:17bcb] Under rear wheel arches - look at shock absorber top spring plate, check for corrosion and ensure there is a gap between the plate the top of the strut spring sits in, and bodywork. [/*:m:17bcb] A decent set of coilovers can be a plus point because if you intend to add them yourself, you will need to budget approx £500 for an average (price-wise) setup. VW did spend a lot of money developing the suspension, however, so finding a good standard setup is preferable (might be a sign of less 'spirited' driving as well). Brakes [/*:m:17bcb] Check handbrake. Lots of ‘clicks’ to engage? [/*:m:17bcb] Condition of disks [/*:m:17bcb] Warped disks (brake judder) [/*:m:17bcb] ABS – Should be included on all VR6 and 2.0 16V's (should also have traction control as well). Some later G60's had ABS. It was also an option on the other models as well. There should be an orange ABS light in the dash to the left of the driver (It has been known for cars with faulty ABS for the warning light to just be removed!! Start the car with your foot on the brake pedal – you should feel a pulse and the light should go out. If the light is permanently on, it could mean: [/*:m:17bcb] ABS sensors might need cleaning[/*:m:17bcb] ABS sensors might need replacing[/*:m:17bcb] Brake fluid level is low[/*:m:17bcb] ABS control unit might need replacing[/*:m:17bcb] Brake pedal sensor might need replacing In general, if the light is on and it isn’t one of the top 3 faults above, it could be an expensive thing to fix. An abs light that refuses to go out may also be due to a faulty ignition switch, or, heaven forbid, a faulty abs pump (expect to pay £750 for a reconditioned one - a new one is over a grand from the stealers) [/*:m:17bcb] Check for seized rear brake calipers as this is a common fault (although easily rectified) Engine The important thing with any engine is regular oil changes with decent oil. Also Check: [/*:m:17bcb] Oil cap(mayo) [/*:m:17bcb] Water (mayo) [/*:m:17bcb] Oil filter (should be VW or Bosch) [/*:m:17bcb] Timing belt (all belts when serviced) has been changed. (Excludes VR6's) [/*:m:17bcb] Check oil level & colour [/*:m:17bcb] Engine noise (tappets and knocking) [/*:m:17bcb] Smoke from exhaust [/*:m:17bcb] Oil leaks – after a drive, check for any signs of oil leaks. [/*:m:17bcb] Listen out for noisy fuel pumps Gearbox [/*:m:17bcb] Difficulty engaging gears - mainly 2nd and 1st when cold Exhaust [/*:m:17bcb] As with any car, check for any signs of the exhaust knocking/rubbing against the underside of the car or listen for any signs of the exhaust blowing (hole in the exhaust) The standard exhaust is heavy and runs close to the rear axle and so a knocking from the rear on dips/bumps might be fixed with new rubbers Electrics [/*:m:17bcb] Lights – Corrado lights are poor. An uprated headlight loom (can be made for £10 or bought for £50) would be a bonus [/*:m:17bcb] Heater – does it function on all settings? [/*:m:17bcb] Heated windows/mirrors/washer jets [/*:m:17bcb] MFA computer (check mileage), and that all functions work: Time, Miles traveled, Time elapsed, Average speed, Average MPG, Oil temp, Outside Temp Also check that the MFA is not flashing or that it doesn't rest itself once the ignition is turned off. Both are signs of clocking. [/*:m:17bcb] Electric windows [/*:m:17bcb] Electric Mirrors [/*:m:17bcb] Rear spoiler – Does it work when standing and automatically when moving (45mph is the most common ‘raise’ speed (should lower at under 10mph)) [/*:m:17bcb] Alarm/immobilizer [/*:m:17bcb] Does the stereo automatically switch on and off with the ignition Driving Make sure: [/*:m:17bcb] Doesn’t pull to the side when driving or breaking. [/*:m:17bcb] Engine performs as it should (G60 – low down pull, VR6/16V’s better pull at higher revs) [/*:m:17bcb] Any knocking, droning, clunking or any other noises [/*:m:17bcb] Squeaks from belts such as power steering belt Check documentation [/*:m:17bcb] Log book (No. of owners) [/*:m:17bcb] Service receipts [/*:m:17bcb] Dealer stamps in service book [/*:m:17bcb] Check that the History corresponds with/backs up the mileage VR6 specific checks [/*:m:17bcb] Listen for any noise from the timing chain. Slight noise (rattle) can be acceptable. The guides and tensioner can need replacing once mileage approaches 80k+. £200 for parts alone and it’s quite labour intensive as it can be worth doing the clutch whilst you’re at it. [/*:m:17bcb] VR6’s generally have a rough idle. Check that the idle isn’t overly erratic. UK and Euro VR6 engines should have the ABV engine code which is the 2.9 litre engine. Golfs and USA VR6's (SLC for USA Corrado) are fitted with 2.8 litre versions The UK 'Storm' model [/*:m:17bcb] Only from April 1995 onwards. Some were registered later than N-reg, however.[/*:m:17bcb] Only Classic Green with beige leather or Mystic Blue with black leather [/*:m:17bcb] 250 of each colour[/*:m:17bcb] The log book will not identify the car as a Storm[/*:m:17bcb] Colour coded grill[/*:m:17bcb] BBS Solitudes G60 specific checks [/*:m:17bcb] Has charger been rebuilt? This can be one of the most important (read: expensive) things to make sure has been done properly. [/*:m:17bcb] Remove the big charger outlet pipe and check for oil. [/*:m:17bcb] G60 boost check Do you know how to test your boost levels? Start Motor [/*:m:17bcb] Move the MFA selector to "2" [/*:m:17bcb] Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) [/*:m:17bcb] Stop motor [/*:m:17bcb] Start Motor [/*:m:17bcb] Release the MFA end button. [/*:m:17bcb] Press the MFA End button one time. [/*:m:17bcb] For UK cars, you should now see 450-470 (warm engine) fluctuating with idle. [/*:m:17bcb] Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. [/*:m:17bcb] A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! [/*:m:17bcb] USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 15 200 -23.7 55 400 -17.8 90 600 -11.9 127 800 -5.9 148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended[/*:m:17bcb]