dubweiser

Main dealer want £160 for the pair...they can kiss my arse ha ha ha

Nope,eurocarparts only do one version for my reg and thats the one i ordered but it doesnt come with bushes or washers or nuts and they dont do them.It comes up on their computer screen as unavailable as i saw when i took them back. Volksparts of durham have managed to source me some complete so going to pick them up tomorrow.Fingers crossed they are right. The lads in their have helped me a few times with parts so i would recommend them to anyone in the north east

Are golf ones definately the same? I got told they were different?

I just took the ecp ones back as they cant get the bushes and washers and locknut for the end.Phoned gsf as they advertise on the photo that it all comes in the kit,but when the guy checked,again they only come with the link itself,no bushes for the wishbone or washers and they dont do them.So i just rang the stealers and they have quoted me a price of £81 per side!!! £160 for two feckin droplinks!!!!. Does anyone know where i can get these items from without having my eyeballs taken out aswell?Need them desperately for mot retest Supercharged,you mention bolts on the list you put up.Can you tell me what the bolts are for? Also by bearings do you mean the 2 bushes? £55 per side or for the two? And where can i get discount :-) Id rather get vw ones but i feel its daylight robbery the price they quoted me ---------- Post added at 6:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:38 PM ---------- Ive just seen these on vwspares,does anyone know if they come as the complete kit?If not,if i buy these would the bushes and washers etc from the stealers fit on these links?This looks like a cheaper option to do it this way. http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=741

Does the offset face to the outside or inside?

Cheers meth,can anyone verify if these are the correct ones? http://www.gsfcarparts.com/427vg0100 .Its just that i ordered some from eurocarparts and they look different,they seem longer and are offset and dont have any kind of "shoulder" as it were on the top for the top part of the bush to press up against?Either the eurocarparts ones are wrong or these gsf ones are wrong?

Just a quickie......Just failed MOT on two knackered droplinks.Aside from the droplinks can anyone tell me what size/type nuts they are held on with and is there washers i need to order aswell? cheers The droplinks came in the post but they only have the bushes in them on the end that goes over the anti roll bar.Is it a wishbone bush that i need also for the other end?(i assume the threaded end of the droplink fits through the wishbone bush?) Ive never taken these to bits before so not sure how they even fit !!

mmmmmmm baaaacccconnnnnn (said in a homer simpson type voice)

heres the fronts http://wiki.the-corrado.net/front_brakes_removal_and_refitting_guide.html Dunno about the vr6,but im assuming they are similar to the 16v in that you need a wind in tool for the piston when you do the rears.I hired one from a local motor factors place for about £3 so you should be able to find one cheap enough. heres what i mean with the wind in tool... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3950797-Rear-Brake-Pads-Change-DIY hope this helps

Nice one lol :-)

You cut the lambda sensor off? How did you screw the new one in place mate if you didnt take the old one out?

Get underneath and look at the downpipe to the exhaust and you will see it mate.As for being easy to replace....you could be lucky,but i know when i got mine done,the lads in the garage had an absolute nightmare trying to get it out.Its subject to heat and crap all them years and the threads can become seized (as mine was).They had to use a blow torch in the end (very carefully so not to cause damage) and a lot of persuasion with penetrating fluid etc.Took them ages to do.

Low speed knocking sound on a car that happens when the steering is on lock,usually means the drive shaft is knackered.Put it on full lock and drive away slowly,you should hear it.I reckon thats ya problem mate

Spoke to autowatch today and they said i needed a new alarm ecu module to replace the old one.I can get the part from them and apparantly its just a case of unplugging the old module and plugging the new one in its place.However,the unit is hidden (as far as i know) somewhere behind the dash.Any tips on getting into the dash please?The most ive had off is the steering cowling and the instrument trim ring.I would think the best access would be to remove the clocks.Anyone know how to remove them and is it easy before i go smashing things i shouldnt?Are they just screwed in place?

Is that with the car running or with the engine switched off?

Stick a multimeter on your battery and check the voltage,then start the car and check it again.If the voltage doesnt increase,then its not charging from the alternator

I just put new batteries in today mate,and tried another fob i had and the same thing happens.Ive been reading that it could be an antenna fault???God knows where the antenna is located

Interesting.Tried it again today and it works but only when i have the fob right next to the window on the drivers side.Any farther away from that and it wont work.Any idea what this problem could be?

Hi i have an autowatch cat1 on my car which ive had fitted since i owned it and never had any bother whatsoever with it,then today i pressed the button on the kefob and nothing happened (supposed to beep and unlock doors) after a couple of attempts it worked so i started my car as normal and drove home from work.After i turned the car off and tried alarm fob again,it now wont work again.I can lock the doors and open them no problem just with the key,problem is,the immobiliser is on because i cant turn it off with the keyfob.So the immobiliser part of the system is working fine,but the alarm/lock/unlock part of it wont work.Any ideas anyone?Someone said it could be a blown fuse as they had the same trouble with the same alarm and thats what fixed it,but ive just looked at the fuses and they are all ok.Is there more than one fuse board?(down under the drivers side,the one with a few relays on the board aswell),or am i missing something or other fuses. Im up S**t creek at the minute cos i cant start my car as i cant turn the immobiliser off with the keyfob and i need it for work. oh and i just tried phoning autowatch to get my emergency override code to find out they are only open mon-fri.Quality! not

Nice one mate.Glad to help,hope it cures the starting problem

Welcome to the corrado ignition switch mate.It took me two days last weekend to get that bloody screw out,but it can be done so dont give up.There are a few guides around how to do it and the guys on here gave me advice aswell.I found in the end the way i did it was to remove the instrument trim first (pop the two triangle shaped bits out in the bottom corners to reveal screws),then remove the steering wheel cowl.If you have a small mirror you can angle it up backwards to see exactly where the screw is.After smashing 3 screwdrivers trying to bend them,i found the easiest way was to put the steering wheel in a position where i could best get the longest thinnest screwdriver i had,up between the barrel and the switch where the screw is and using a pair of long nose pliers,turn that screwdriver by the handle.It only moved a tiny bit at a time so be patient and it was just enough to start working the screw out.Then if you drop the steering wheel a bit,and peer over the top you can just about see the head of the screw start to appear.I then used a watcmakers screwdriver to just about make contact with the screw head and slowly turn it bit by bit til it came out.I kind of used a mixture of the guides i had found and mixed them all together until i found a way that worked.Good luck mate,but it can be done and you dont have to start drilling shear bolts and stuff off your lock to do it.I know some people have done this but it is possible without. ---------- Post added at 2:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:52 PM ---------- This helped me a lot (ignore the bit about the bolts as you will most likely have round shear bolts instead) but it gives you an idea what you are looking at http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8617 ---------- Post added at 2:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:53 PM ---------- P.s,try getting into it from the top.I never went at it from underneath so there was no need to be stuck upside down

if you got the old one out then you have done the hard part mate.Did you get the screw out ok?You can just connect the new one up and secure it with cable ties instead of fannying about trying to get the screw back in

It might be worth trying to get someone with a multi meter to test it for you mate if you can.Its a good thing to change it i suppose as it could be worn,but it can be right pain in the a**e lol.The tiny little screw holding it in can be an absolute bugger to get out

Theres an ignition switch that is fitted to the bottom of the ignition barrel.Its quite a common fault for these to pack in as i found out recently.They can cause allsorts of ignition problems and starting troubles.I had all my dash lights on like you and the pump was priming and everything but the car wouldnt turn over.It was dead as a dodo.I think a good way to test if it is your starter thats sticking is next time it wont start,run a cable from the battery straight to the starter solenoid,then if it turns over you can rule out the starter.To test the switch you need to get a multimeter and check the voltage at the connecter on the starter solenoid (unplug the red/black wire and stick the multimeter on there and the negative to the car body ot battery somewhere) and when you turn the key you should get 12v on the reading.If not then your switch could be to blame.Mine was worse when we had that hot weather recently and it wouldnt turn over at all if it had been left in the sun all day.Its due to the switch heating up and the components inside having worn/broken down over the years and probably expanding in the heat so not working correctly. When you couldnt get it to turn over,did you try bump starting it?and did it go then?

Its not the ignition switch thats at fault is it?I just had to replace mine at the weekend and it seems quite a common fault