andy35554

Hi sorry folks I will put some photos up tomorrow and prices on them all.

All the following are from my previously owned 1995 VR6 A full set of external rubbing strips/mouldings 2 chrome rear vw badges. One has the rear black plastic backplate. both have broken clips so will need to be secured onto the car with an adhesive 1 BBS wheel cap from the standard storm alloy wheels. One clip broken off rear but can be glued onto wheel I am happy to post out the badges but prefer to buyer to collect the door strips. This is not final just my preference. Photos to follow I am open to offers on all items thanks

VR6 | classic green | Cheshire Price: £2350 Description: Green Corrado Storm for Sale. With a tear in my eye I present you with my beloved Green Storm for Sale Its currently on about 165k miles and MOT was done in November. Tax is end of January I have owned this car since October 2004 and a full respray in about 2009 It has been on the corrado club stand at Tatton park a few times whilst in my ownership Over the years I have personalised it slightly but this is its current set up..... 288mm brakes - these will be staying on the car an essential upgrade All red light clusters at rear - these can be replaced by the original standard ones I have in my garage Clear LED side repeaters - standard ones can be replaced if required. Alpine head unit with full IPOD control (again original Sony unit and 10 disk multichanger available) Custom made bass box in boot Full cat back magnex stainless exhaust fitted Standard springs with koni t/a struts (eibach springs available) Custon LED high level brake light which is easily removed for the purist K&N air filter HID high low lamps (again can be removed for standard lamps if required) Interior is really nice condition Over the years I have done all the usual jobs on the cooling system including the heater matrix 6 months ago, radiator last year. Windscreen was replaced in June and all corrosion sorted round the seals There is a small dent on the passenger door from some a$$hole in a car park opening a door onto it but this can be sorted before the sale. The rubbing strips from the side of the car are removed but available if required I have used this car daily for the last 8 years All electrics work except the sunroof. One job I never got round to doing Clifford concept 650 alarm fitted standard grill and badgeless one standard bbs alloys Loads of history including MOT's and tax disks since I have owned it Any questions please ask as I am sure I will have forgotten something cant upload photos for some reason but happy to email a few out if interested PRICE REDUCED TO £2350

Hi, can someone advise the barrell part number? Or where to get it from? I have a 95 vr6 storm with the immobiliser factory fit. The electrical switch at the back of the barrell I have replaced but the intermittent problem of starting the car persists. I think the key barrel is worn out and I need to fit a new one. Can I just replace the barrell? Currently i have to turn the ignition on, then as i try and start the car push the key quite harsh upwards to start the engine. I can see a snapped key on the horizon! Thanks in advance for any replies.

Hi, i have just posted about them on your bits for sale thread! Have you got a photo of them and are they leak free?

thanks for the reply!

Hi, my front passenger side koni has sprung a leak so requires a new pair fitting, will consider changing the eibach springs too as the front sits a little higher than the back. cheers

Hi, is any of the suspension for sale? (namely the front shocks and springs) Also the blower for the interior ventilation, the 4 speed fan also the outer top door strips that rub on the window as it goes up and down cheers

Hi I have the same problem with my 95 c fitted with eibach springs, it clunks at low speeds when you turn it to full lock, do I just need to buy the early to plates? Out of interest front end of car sits a bit higher than the back, I understand there are lowering to plates is it wORTH getting them?

I have just had a look through the events list(s) and no sign of the "all types" show at Bodelwyddan castle in North Wales http://www.all-types.co.uk/

dont see one for ages then two in an hour first one on the A6 in clayton le woods, mine was parked at the side of he road behind a blue tvr griffith, i was stood at the side of the road only saw it at the last minute. than an hour later a silver one on the m58

i got pulled last week for german metal pressed plated. £60 fine...... Cheshire police having a crackdown, no warnings or slapped wrists, so be warned!!!

vr6 paul,, if you go to the stealers they can get the part numbers on the screen.. i know this will mean 2 trips but i dont have the part numbers regarding coolant i didnt drain mine, see my comments just beofre your post Andy

I have done all this to a set of 288mms, fitted them bled the system but stil la bit spongy, may have to bleed again. My question is, where do does the anti squeal shim go, its about the size of a brake pad thin plat piece of metal, does it go on the outer or inner brake pad? I am not too sure cheers andy

hi, thanks to this thread and the definitive one i done mine over the weekend, i removed my battery to do the rad stat too and this gave me a bit more room in the engine bay thanks for to the ppl who helped and done this write up cheers andy

mine does exactly the same! and when the fan kicks in its only on for a few seconds (15 or so) then goes off dont think I have ever heard the other "stages" to the fan - i will have to do a bit of testing off this thread to find out though, time to make a few shorting straps and get the multimeter out!

hi, im going to have a crack at this job soon as my car is leaking quite bad now, only thing is im not sure what the 3 sensors are for? How do you know if they are faulty? Can you test them? what are the "signs" that they maybe faulty? I am considering buying all the bits so I only have to do the job once, im convinced its the main housing seal onto the engine block that it leaking. cheers andy

I had never seen anyhting like that before or heard about them, usually when thats the case the stuff is rubbish!! just thought i would ask some "experts" on engines lol

COuld this thing make any difference, looks like a hairdrier to me lol http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0272698173

four weeks without my car boohoo!! looks ten times better now tho! so nice to have a stonechip free front!

hi thanks for reply, we were scared of breaking the window and then forking out £400 for new one! but there are specialists out there and thats the route we are now going down, the windows will be removed tomorrow. A few people have now said you can wax straight away so i will be going down that route, if is not rainng that is lol cheers andy

2nd attempt at a post... first of all your car looks amazing. Mine is currently in bits having a respray and we are not sure whats best to do with the rear quarter glass. Had a read of a few posts and all differ in opinion Is it a sod to remove, best to leave in? Also how long was it before you waxed it after the respray cheers andy

My vr6 is currently having a full respray. I have been reading on the detailing websites on care of the paint once i get it back and there are so many conflicting views... i want to keep the paint in tip top condition so what do i do for the best with fresh paint? heres a pic ready for rub down

Like a lot of people on here my sunroof decided to stop playing ball, would not tilt and only slide backwards. The following took me about 2 hours to complete You will need a soldering iron, screw driver,torx bits, fine wet and dry, some solvent cleaner and lots of patience!! First of all i greased all the runners and the cables as they needed doing I then dismantled the sunroof switch - this is very fiddly but can be done - once inside i cleaned up all the electrical contacts. Still the sunroof played up Once i removed the motor mechanism from the headling and operated the switch i noticed the motor was not turning, and i could hear relays clicking in the housing. I took these pictures whilst it was back in the car but once the motor mechanism was removed a place it on a workbench for dismantling Prise the black plastic cover off the circuit board remove the four screws holding the circuit board in place You will then see two sets of contacts coming out of the side of the motor onto the circuit board. Remove the solder remove the metal cover which has the manual close bit on, using torx type screwdriver you can see the electrical cut out when you remove this cover, i have shorted it out on the circuit board as it is a real poor connection the circuit board can now be removed turn it over and you will see 3 copper coloured relays - using tiny bits of wet n dry you can clean the contacts on the relays. Now remove the 4 tiny bolts that hold the motor in place. Remove the motor from the rest of the mechanism, take care not to lose the tiny cog at the drive end You can remove the metal cover from one end, the other is exposed inside you will see 2 sets of brushes at either end slide off the plastic end pieces and you will see the brushes clearly clean up remove all dirt and wet n dry the end of the brushes. ~The commutator will need cleaning too, thats the bit the brushes rub on, again using wet n dry and solvent cleaner replace the end pieces forcing the brushes back into the plastic housing with a screw driver to get them onto the copper commutators put motor end cap on and replace on mechanism. replace the 4 long bolts return the circuit board and resolder the motor connections replace the metal cover over the manual over ride bit screw in the circuit board and replace plastic cover connect the wiring back up and check the motor goes both ways refit to car and align as necessary so the motor stops in the right place, this may mean taking the motor off and on a few times to realign it.

had my vr6 on a local rolling road today, didnt look particularly technical the piece of kit they used but they came up with the followng results... dont really understand them too much and i wil scan in the graph tomorrow, but with original (as far as i know!!) ecu, and no enine mods other than k&n and a magnex cat back exhaust (130k miles on the clock too), do these results look ok, is it easy to tell if it has been remapped or had another chip fitted? I am looking at having the top end rebuilt clutch tappets timing chain etc cheers RPM BHP BHP wheel flywhee TORQUE 1600 22 24 79 2000 50 55 144 2400 61 67 147 2800 92 101 190 3200 127 140 229 3600 149 161 234 4000 149 164 215 4400 158 174 207 4800 159 175 191 5200 170 187 189 5600 181 199 187 6000 190 209 183 6400 193 212 174