VEEDUBBED

I used it around 4/5 years back on my old golf turbo valver,i did notice a difference in the engine temps but strangly enough my car kept blowing coolant hoses,i stopped using it but scrapped the car,just coincidence???.. Try a product called 'below 40',i bought it from midland preformance centre for 35 notes inc.postage to Rome,exellent product with near instant results.

Thanks pete,problem is that i never had this part so i don't know the numbers.

Yeah,that's the bugger,the bit that err,breaths?,plastic pipe attached. No engine code 'cos in Italy we never got that version of beetle,the stealers are useless.

Come on chappys, someone must bloodywell know? :(

Duz anyone know the part number for the oil filler cap/breather fitted(i think) to turbo 20v beetles?? Thanks.

You've got two pumps mate,the 1 in the tank is a small delivery pump that feeds the bigger pump underneath the car. Get hold of a second hand 2.0l corrado or golf 2 gti fuel pump/filter and plastic housing(the version fitted with mech. injection) and swap them,your intank pump will then feed the big 5Bar+ fuel pump you got off the mech injected car.

I second that,the VR6 press. plate has stronger straps so if your upping the power on your G60,that's a good start.

They are the trims,A/R is the sistem used by Garret,.42 is the most common-rs turbos,volvos,TD golf 2,old montego TD etc. Garret T/4s had .60 copressor trims,T4s had .70 with anything from a .63 to a .108 trim for the exhaust turbine side. Look on vwvortex in the forced induction area,good info. and people who know what there on about,Killa(paul) is especially clued up on FI. Check out junkyard turbos,another good site for info. on turbos Hope that helps.

Right,the 2wd cosworth sierra had a garret T3 turbo with a comp.A/R of .42,the exh. housing A/R was .48.Next was the 4x4 saff. version,same T3 jobbie with same A/R but had a modified exh. housing. That brings us to the Escort cosworth,1st series had a Garret (T35),T3/4 turbo fitted with a .60 turbine A/R and a laggy .63 exh. housing,next was the face lifted model that had a T25 Garret blower which was only good for small boost,not sure on the specs because i've never used those weeny turbos. Ford escort rsturbos also had Garret T3 turbos fitted,1st series had an oil cooled T3 .42,.48 blower,2nd series had the same turbo fitted but water cooled,much more reliable and less prone to cracking around the wastegate penny. Lancia delta integrales had the same Garret T3/4(or T35 if you like),Evo-1 deltas had the .60 comp. fitted along with an awfully small .36 exhaust housing,that explains the lightning quick acceleration.. Delta 8v intergrales had a Garret T38 fitted which was an exellent turbo but cracked it's(.63) exhaust housing easily. Volvo 240 turbos also had the same turbo as the 8v intergrale with the same problems. I've fitted all the above turbos onto my various T.16v mills exept the small T25 and they are all good,latest is a T3/4 .60 with a Mountune modified escort cosworth.63 exh. housing,360 degree thrust bearing,stagger oil ring and quick realise bolt holes. Let me know if you need any more info,i've played with quite a few turbos...

Right,if i understood correctly your saying that the cylinders have 75psi in each?what i don't understand is the charger bit?,the charger has nothing to do with engine compression,the charger creates postive press. above atmo.press.,it's a supercharger that compresses the incoming air,the pistons and rings compress the air/fuel. Check the Lambda wiring and earth,almost always hard and crumbly after 16+years of hot and cold. Did you remove the ecu's boost sensing rubber hose?,may have been fitted back on the wrong brass nipple on the throttle body,also check the FPR's small rubber hose for cracks/splits. Change the blue temp. sensor located on the front of the cyl.head or swap over the two harness plugs blue with black temp. sensor. Co pot been fiddled with?,was it adjusted accordingly when you fitted the re-mapped chip?. Check that lot and let me know if the car's better.

I have the answer!!!,buy my turbo manifold,injectors,AFR meter,metal headgasket AND a spare set of forged pistons...,goodbye problem!!...so simple!!

Allright peeps, Has anyone ever squeezed an Audi 5cyl. turbo20v mill into a corrado shell??. I today bought the entire front off an audi S4,engine,loom,ecu etc for 350euro,165.000km and the car pulled like a train.. Any info. such as transmission issues etc would be appriciated 'coz i might try it. Thanks.

Err,nice picture but why?,do you need a spare starter?.. I've got a few spare,pay the postage and i can post you 1 if you want.

Thanks mate,managed to get it sorted and timed up ok.

Yeah mate,i thought about the SD1 rover v8 aswell,problem is that the rover SD1 is as rare as rokin horse shiyt,impossible to find here in Rome. No,the cyl.banks aren't like the Buick/rover v8 mill and the plug leads have no numbers,neither does the dist. cap,just blank circles were numbers should have been... The firing order is stamped on the inlet manifold so that's already something but without knowing which cyl. is 1 i can't attacth a timing light.

Right peeps,i know that my question isn't corrado related but i can't find any info anywere... Does anyone know which piston is no.1 on a small block chevvy 302ci engine???,seeing as it's a v8 there are quite a few to choose from. I think that this must be THE only 1970 chevvy camero in the whole of Italy. I've ordered the Hayes manual from the states but it's gonna take a few weeks to ship :( The mill's gonna recieve twin turbos...

Remember that the INNER steering arms are longer on the Corrado VR6 ZF steering rack when compared to a TRW G60 rack,the VR arms also have a machined shoulder that won't sit flush when swapped over,I did the conversion and have had no problems since,just remember to apply thread lock to the arms before tightening. You'll also have to use the same ZF PS.pump and HP pipe as the G60 and VR pipes/pumps differ. If your running 205/50/15 rubber they will rub on the front inner arches slightly on full lock,195/50/15 tyres are fine.

Sad to see this kind of thing happen,especially after forking out over 1000 squids. Big judge,if you were nearer to me i'd give you a spare set of alloys to roll around on mate,hope it works out for you positivly.

Hey scruffy,i'd just wanted to say that your write-up was exellent mate,well packed with info. Before i forget,Blue sprint motorsport used to modifiy ecu's to run anti-lag,might wanna give them a call.

Maram exhaust turbine shaft needed when using anti lag,it's the only metal that will withstand the kind of temps. associated with that mod.I don't see an IHI turbo having a Maram shaft,Garret terratory only i reckon.Every now and then these shafts pop up on eBay,very expensive components though. What kind of engine manegment are you using?,i Don't reckon that digifant will hack it,the only ecu's i remember that used anti-lag were the weber/iaw P6,8 and L8 escort cos. jobbies,even then the idle valves had to be modified as did the internal parts of the ecu. Why not plumb in a small shot of nitrous(25hp) jets?,you'll eliminate the lag instantly and also gain more power,i reckon that it'll also cost less compared to the cost of anti-lag that cost way back in '97 over 700 squids...

Exellent info.,keep it coming.

Same press. as yours mate,my engine has 70.000km and inside is clean as a whistle,consumes no oil(turbo 16v) and makes no smoke,the only difference between my engine and yours is that my Racelogic gauge is electric instead of mechanical. I would'nt be worried,as long as the press. is 2 bar at 2000rpm with a hot engine you'll be fine. Oil grade also plays a big part,20/50,15/40 etc.

I've got a true 74mm exhaust from front to back and my corrado,it's also lowered on FK coilovers,it's all in the fitment and alignment,at first it did foul the back axle badly but after cutting,welding measuring loads of times i eventually got it right,ok sometimes when i hit a large pot hole it will touch but nothing serious.

Check the inner cv joints,my car did the same,was undrivable even at 50km/h vibrating through the dash,pedals,steering colum etc.It turned out to be that,i changed the longer lh shaft and the car ran perfect.

Could be loads of things,fuel press.good?,injectors partially clogged up?,FPR good?,rubber pipe ok? misfiring under load,old,hard ign.leads?,hall sender playing up?(very common,especially on valvers). Let me know if you suss it.