VEEDUBBED

Good points guys,really it's a matter of availabilty,i've got G60 parts i could fill a room with so,naturally,that was my first idea,Porsche injection sounds good the problem is finding all the components,chip tuning brings it's own problems in that over here in Italy,the VR was virtually not imported due to tax on the car's engine cc.,no 1 bought it. I think i may have to contact EIP or maybe someone who knows the VR's ecu more than these clowns over here.

Allright,i've got this ABV VR6 engine slowly rusting to death up at my parts werehouse,i was thinking of turboing it with a KKK27 or T4 and putting the motor on ebay,what i'd like to know is has anyone tried to use the G60's injection system on a VR??,taking into account that the VR motor has 2 knock sensors,6 injectors that may overload the digi's ecu injector drivers,etc. Any thoughts?i've tried using weber/marelli software but the phase sensor can't be adapted,nor can the Maserati bi-turbo's IAW setup because it uses 2 ecus,1 for injection,1 for ign. timing,another possibility was the Alfa 164 v6 turbo set-up,not good because it uses an awfull airflap meter system. Any hints/ideas?,cheers.

Change the camshaft drive belt and tensioner if not done already.

I've got the seals,inner,outer,frame 1,door 1...,you can remove the frame seal but it's a bugger to re-fit properly,spray contact glue(3M) is a good product when re-assembleing,go slowly and with patience you'll be able to do it.

...And the VR6's bellhousing is totally different.

Remember to also adjust the small rubber buffers located at the bottom of the door.

I've been trying to do just that veeDuB mate,all i ever get,regarding that engine,subframe,ecu,downpipe,fusebox,loom,etc are time wasters....,i've still got loads of digiphotos on my pc. If any1 wants to make a sensible offer on the lot,contact VEEDUBBED.

Yeah,i've had the engine out of a crashed corrado given to me,i can't use the bloody thing because corrado/passat vr6s were never sold over here in Rome therefore i can't fit into my G60 because of stupid ancient/outdated Italian rules...

You might also need my 32000mile ABV,2.9 VR engine,compleatly dismanteled...

CO sample pipe?,that pipes only connected to the exhaust mani.,it's also attached to the back of the inlet mani. but only by 1 13mm bolt to secure it from moving.

Same thing,just un-screw the knob anti clockwise,hoping that the knob's thread isn't bu@@ered...

Yeah mate,i checked whilst i was building my 9A 2.0 g60 16valve engine,i also have a blown up 'KR' 1800 turbo engine fitted with a 50mm inlet setup.the obvios difference bieng the diameter of the runners,bolt pattern is the same.

Sorry to see such damage,i'm wondering if i choose the right route doing a 2.0 G-charged valver...,anyway if you need bits to turbo your motor i've got a modified jetta TD exhaust manifold for the 8v G60 head+inlet manifold,Garret T3 .48/.42 turbo or if not i can also supply a mitsubishi TD04,ihi vl5,Garret T3/4...you name it,i've probably got it,and with a fair price too.

When i stripped down my corrado i got the roof sprayed,both sides,back end,badge holes welded up,1 front wing,inner shuts,all for 850 euro,herbert's/standox original Vw paint used,they even gave me half a litre ofspare paint for touch-ups.

Check the coil tower/ht lead going into the coil,almost always covered in green rubbish,i've used both green label G60 and yellow label/sticker coils on my 2.0 G60.16v motor,they both work fine.

Nice 1 G60JAY,i'll do that tomorow,can you give me some details about your engine?,you must be the only person in Australia to have done a G60.16v.

Can anybody confirm that the mitsubishi TDo4 turbo was fitted to varios subaru imprezas,wrxs etc?,i've been given a turbo/downpipe of a scrapped Volvo 740 turbo 8v 2.0 polar and was wondering if the exhaust flange was the same as the above mentioned cars. Those kind of cars in Rome are virtually un-heard of so zero info available,thanks everyone,Andrew.

I don't want to sound a wizeazz but i wrote the details of my engine at least 3 times,here goes again,original 9A 2.0 16v engine,and i mean original,all of it exept a 1.8 'KR' inlet camshaft,comp. ratio is 10.5/1 pretty high i know but seeing as the G-charger can't produce more that 0.2 bar pressure on my boost gauge,momentarerly,that's not a problem,also because i've fitted a van intercooler(big). Plugs are ngk bke7s which ran fine on my old turboed 8v corrado,exhaust is all factory spec bar a hollowed out CAT,G60 pulley is stock 78?mm unit,ECU is the car's O/E digifant G60 unit with stock eeprom. Start engine,run up to operating temp,boot it in any gear and the car hits a solid wall,A/F narrow band goes full lean and the leds somtime dissappear althogther...,only when i open manually the full throttle switch after opening the idle switch will the green lights light up,with the car stationary,otherwise the gauge works perfectly,cycling at idle/criuse etc. The injectors are G60 Bosch O/E green tops. After building loads of 8v/16v turbo motors,fitting 16 valve heads on 'PG' blocks,turbo and super charging a "PG" engine,unless i'm drunk i'm NOT going to fit a NA chip into a turbocharged/supercharged engine.. As always any hints are most welcom.

G60 pistons new,680euro+VAT....but you get the rings included.

Right lads,does any 1 know why my G-charged 2.0 16valver keeps running lean??,i've changed the blue TS,air filter(K&N panel) is new and oiled,plugs are fine,throttle switches both work,timing is 6/7 degrees BTDC,ECU hose is exactly 1 meter long and O/E type,pulley on charger is O/E,lambda signal is fine,sweeps at idle/cruise but as soon as the engine gets even a hint of acceleration the leds on the meter dissapear into lean limbo,whats left?,i'm loosing my rag because i've got a theoreticly quick car that in reality won't overtake a fiat 500...,O/E chip in ECU,i can't belive that adding a super charger to a standard 2.0 9A engine would give so many problems,if i can't sort it i'm binning the charger and putting back my T3/4 turbo. The car as it stands has F@#K all acceleration,a standard uno turbo would pi$$ all over it.

There's always some when cold,if i'm not mistaken you should be able to insert a 15mm feeler blade down the side of the piston skirt and block but not higher than 15mm. By sideways i take it that you mean thrust side?,at right angle to crankshaft.

I've just finished mine,i bought a green 'touring car' top tint which i bought from demon tweeks,good product but a word of advice if you're attempting this mod yourself,first i personally say that to get a first class job the tint has to fitted while the screens out of the car,the manufacturers state that it's just as easy fitting the tint without sreen removal,it's not,it's a pig of a job because 1,the corrado's screen is concave,meaning that you will have to cut a strip off the top of the tint inorder to achieve a straight edge,2,take the backing piece off the tint in a bath of water,then apply it to your SPOTLESSLEY CLEAN screen,if you fail to do this,as soon as you remove the backing plastic(already soaked in soapy water), without it being under water,minute dust particals will stick to the glued side which cannot be removed afterwards...,1 other thing,be carefull what tool you use to remove air bubbles/water,the film is very easily scratched.

I've done it,fitted a 'kr' 16v head on a 'PG' block using the G60 pistons,horribly low C/R,but i was boosting nearly 2 bar turbo press...,is it difficult?,well that's quite a loaded question,how skilled are you?,what tools do you have access to? do you have a garage?,.... 1 thing is certain,the oil ways DO line up on the 'PG' block when using a 'KR' head,it's not the actual fitting,it's all the other small things that cause headscratching/swearing etc.

I don't know the official sequence because i've got a Bently G60 manual,i usually tighten first the 2 longer bolts then work on the outer bolts,you'll see if your overtighening because the outer rubber gaskit will 'bow' out.

I've done that mod on my g60 charged 2.0 9A,i agree, i felt a small difference in torque output,1 word of advice if you are doing the job,watch those bloody half moon oil seals located under the valve cover,their very easy to dislodge and loose and they're also easy to fit wrong and get oil leaks...,same goes for the cam cover's rubber gaskit and seperate plug hole gaskit,carefull not to overtighten the cover's fixing bolts,tighten in sequence.