VeeDub Geezer

cool, thanks for the info guys...

I know a lot of guys use the 2.2 10v throttle body on their 8v mk2s/Sciroccos and was wondering if the 2.3 20v (7a) would have the same effect on the 9a and no i dont believe that it will give the car an extra 10bhp.. but combined with other mods to improve inlet flow it could make a difference.. Thanks Aaron

so which wire did you swap over? Jades C seems to wait for ages to start the fans, pop's a little (even tho theres a cat in the exhaust) and ever so slightly off smooth idle.. would be interested to see if this could be the problem here too!

just slightly!!

oh and thinking about it, i think the difference between the 2 bushes is because of the different racks between 16v/G60 & VR :)

its not sloppy by a long way but 15 year old bushes must need doing by now.. and if poly makes a difference then thats the way we will go :)

any one fitted these? do they make much difference? ive seen them here.. http://www.polyurethanebushes.com/product_info.php/cPath/140_143/products_id/401 and here http://www.polyurethanebushes.com/product_info.php/cPath/140_143/products_id/402 whats the difference in these two?? could be a cheap way of improving steering response..

id personally stick to DOT 4 fluid as its very rare to "cook" DOT 4 on the road...

do the S2 calipers and carriers bolt straight to the 16v hub? Its a '93 16v(sorry to hijack the thread)

isnt the whole suspension the "plus" set-up on a VR?

id guess at cleaning the Idle Valve and check all the rubber pipes between airbox and inlet manifold.. HTH

as long as you use longer bolts then there is only the clearance issue (as well as high wheel bearing wear)

The 16v seems to give these symptoms when the valve stem seals need doing.. the gf's C ('93 2.0 16v) does this as well.. (fine on start up, starts smoking on idle when warm, a little when opening it up a bit) gettin them done in the next couple of months.. generally the stem seals go at about 100,000-110,000 miles HTH

my advice is dont over look salvage/second hand parts.. i personally prefer to replace lights etc with 2nd hand as they dont look out of place likenew ones do.. just my opinion

sorry, its a 92 2.0 16v C if it makes any difference...

it snapped off last year when changing discs but once the wheels are fitted itsa pretty much tight anyways. we seem to be gettin a squeel from the front discs which sounds like the discs are off centre/warped. any suggestions to remove the thread of the screw stuck in the hub carrier? just wanna try replacing the screw before changing the discs etc again. many thanks

we got a JOM one at a show last year for £50 just needed upper tabs modifying to fit well

yea thats a good price for brand new vw indicators mate! nice one!!

the worrying thing is 12 people bid on them :s

Ryan you mouthy little git.. play nice! welcome to the forum BTW (not that im here much as we dont have a G60 or a VR6) :evil:

*threadjack* so 99% of late VAG wheels will fit on the splines, its just the horn that would need adapting? And it is Adam G who fitted a Lupo GTi wheel to his Mk2 Rocco.. and it looks spot on IMO

ive spent the last couple of days playing with the MFA service mode (mfa set to "2", mfa button held in, ign on, ign off, start, release button) can some one tell me what im looking at please :lol: i know its real time MPG and digital Tacho. when 1st activated 8750 then C10 or CI0 when moving shows up. what is this? anyone have the definitive list of what the MFA shows? its a '92 2.0 16v C thanks guys ive tried the search but im sure Triggermyson will find a 3 year old post that i missed :lol:

filter, exhaust, chip and a decent tune then you get into serious head/block reworking.. just bolt a G60 charger to it.. :lol:

i use Meguiars Tyre Dressing on all the black plastics..

then they should go on no problem