jimbobbalooba

Got the lump back from the shop yesterday and started working my way through the list of stuff to get the engine rebuilt. First thing, the paint..... what do you think? I've uploaded some more pics to my blog (sorry Andi, I'd already started my blog before you did the upgrade on the site!) see http://www.corrblimey.com if you're interested. :) Jim

Hi Dragon, welcome to the forum. Keep an eye out for Rado's for sale on here; you'll often get a heads-up before they go on ebay or Autotrader. Jim

When my VR6 did similar (hit the floor and didn't come back at all) it was because the clutch slave cylinder had gone. Not an expensive repair either. Check your fluids and keep on top of them until you get it fix or you might end up stranded!! Jim

Adam, it's heart wrenching that people like us lot have such a connection with a car like the Corrado, put in blood sweat tears and cash just to be told by a face-less insurance company that you can longer afford to drive it because of 'higher claims due to snow' and 'other inconsiderate young drivers'. I'm around the same age as you (31) with just a handful of NCBs to my name (but no accidents etc) I insured my VR6 as a classic limited mileage second car. I use another car as my commuter mainly cos the Corrado is in a million pieces but also was because of the ridiculous insurance as my main car. Now I'm not saying it works for everyone however, if your best quote was around £1500 perhaps it might be worth looking at insuring another cheaper car as your primary and putting the rado onto a similar insurance policy to mine. I pay a little over £140 a year fully comp.... yep you read that right. Limited mileage (I think 5000 miles) and insured as my second car (which it actually is in my case). That would potentially leave you with a saving of £1360 to buy and insure and second super-cheap car (perhaps for you significant other??). Don't break any rules - I'm not suggesting breaking the law by lying however if you're able to have another primary car insured for less than the saving then you're quids in.... I hope this makes sense.... It's past 10pm and I've just had to watch Glee with the Mrs and my brain has died a little. Let me know if I can explain it any better. Best of luck. Jim

If I get a chance next weekend I will but for the moment I've left the ARB hanging down. I just need to be able to push the car to the new house in a month then I can strip it down again properly and sort the issue. It wouldn't be so bad if the metal ARB bush fixings weren't so damned hard to attach! Holding them down so that you can get the bolt in is really difficult. I'll let you know when I can get some pics up, Cheers again for the help. Jim

I'll check that later today if I get a chance. If it was (or is) in the right way up and it's still fouling the wishbones, what else can it be?? To double check - 1. The ARB tabs on the wishbones point downward - yes 2. The droplink point upwards when attached to these tabs, pushing the ARB up above the wishbones - yes (that is deffo right isn't it?) Anything else to check? They are new aftermarket wishbones; would it be them that are faulty? I made the stupid mistake of dumping the old wishbones ages ago so I can't check them against old ones. Anything else to check? Thanks Jim

Still not right. I took it off and turned it up the other way and it's even worse. It must have either been correct and just not sitting right because of the lack of engine (although I'm sceptical that this was the case) or something else is wrong. The wishbones are on the correct sides with the ARB tabs pointing down so I really don't know what the issue is. For the moment I've just detached the droplinks and let it hang down so that I can move the car. I'll have to investigate it further when I get a chance. Any ideas welcome. Jim

Bump. I'm still interested in a VR6 set. If you don't want to sort it then send me the details and I'll get in touch if you like? Thanks Jim

Yeah looking at that ebay link of Mike's I'd be interested if the cost is ok. Am I able to tint this material if I wanted to? Thanks Jim

I'm tempted to buy a full set, what's the damage? Jim

I'll definitely have some, let me know how much ££. I'll pick them up from wherever. Save me the hassle of making them! Jim

Faulty switch. The spoiler control module which auto raises and lowers the spoiler is obviously working ok and is not dependent on the bypass switch. I'd say find a replacement switch; and you're lucky too it's the cheapest part when sorting spoiler issues!! Look on ebay to find one otherwise I know a few people who break rados for a living; they should have one knocking around. Jim PS. Might be worth trying your mates switch just to be sure! :)

In which case that's my problem. Mine is definitely upside down. I'll change it yet again and take photos for the future wiki! Thanks for the help guys! Jim

lol! I'll take a look at the weekend; think I need to be actually looking at this when reading your description. Thanks so much for your help though; I'll let you know how I get on. Jim

Thanks so much for the info. From memory the wishbones are on the correct sides as I'm sure the tabs are pointing to the ground. The central bend IS definitely pointing to the ground though which is now making me worry. I remember fitting it this way as I thought the exhaust downpipes would use that cutout shape. I have used aftermarket wishbones and new droplinks. Could it just be that there isn't enough weight on the front of the car (no engine)? Thanks Jim

Nightmare. So I originally thought the ARB was upside down, changed it, thought better of it and put it back to how it was and in fact, it was upside down. Damn, I'm gonna have drop that cross member again :( , hope it fixes the problem. Actually... before I do, when looking at the front of the car (crouching down and looking underneath) should I be seeing the ARB with a U shape in the middle or should it be the other way up? Thanks again Jim

Due to a house move, I've had to prematurely put the front wheels back on so I can push the car, thankfully I've already restored the front cross member and suspension etc! Either way, I've noticed that the Anti Roll Bar fouls on the wishbones...(see attachment). The arrow points to roughly where the fouling occurs (same on both sides). I'm sure that the ARB doesn't hang below the wishbone and the lug where it attaches to the wishbone is pointing down so I don't know what's wrong. Could the ARB be upside itself?? Please help as I have to sort this quickly! (and it's bloody heavy dropping the cross member each time to change things around! :() Thanks for any help Jim

I wonder..... Think I might have done this as well. No engine in at the moment but noticed that the ARB fouls on the wishbone itself, I bet that's what I've done! Thanks for the info!

Do you own a blue 16v in Callow Hill in Wiltshire? I pass it every day and have done so for the last couple of years. Doesn't seem to have moved much and noticed the lack of wipers suggesting it's perhaps a project car? Jim

...this is why I love this forum. That little snippet of information is gonna save me time and money; thanks iceviolet. Jim

I've posted on VW Vortex as well and they came up with ARP stuff too. Definitely the route I'm gonna take. Main studs (ones that hold the crank caps on) are part number 204-5403 and I'm getting them shipped for $131 delivered. Con rod bolts are part number 204-6006 and cost roughly £100 delivered. The bearings for the camshaft (not the crank or the con rods) don't actually exist I've discovered. Couldn't remember taking them off the head when dismantling it and that would be why!! doh!! I'll take piccies of when I'm actually doing the work and put them up here, might be of interest to someone??!? Thanks for your help. Jim

Hi, gonna be building up the engine this or next weekend from scratch after an acid bath for the block. I'm getting hold of the new parts I need such as seals and bearing however I've come up against a problem - There are no part numbers on ETKA for the crank stretch bolts. Not to be mistaken with discontinued items, these have never been listed by VW. I spoke to my VW dealer who confirms the situation. Apparently VW take the opinion that you shouldn't be stripping down as far as the crank in a local garage and should only take place back in Germany I guess. If the VW dealer can't get them then I really don't know what to do. I don't particularly want to re-use these as they are stretch bolts and shouldn't be used twice. Has anybody else had a similar issue; if so how did you get around it? Same goes for the Camshaft bearings oddly?!?!?!? Please help... anybody. Thanks Jim

Top man Andrew!! Knew I'd read it on here somewhere before! Cheers Jim

Sorry for the dull post but I'm sure I read somewhere that it's best to use a chain tensioner from a golf or something as it's better than the original part? I've keyword searched the forum but can't find the post, might just me being dumb but does anybody know of this mod? Thanks Jim

Blimey, I'm gonna spend next weekend checking my loom again before putting it all in. Seems odd with the fuse rating? Also gonna get the heat gun and do some shrinking on the interiors lights too. Good write-up and I'm glad the car (and you obviously) survived with injury. Jim