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:shock: I could re-carpet my lounge for that, is it mohair or something? :scratch: Human hair, gently brushed into carpet form. Seriously though, I know they are not cheap but I've been looking around for a while. Golf II carpet sets start at around £160 and dozens of people make then in not amazing quality from what I can see at that price. In better materials I'm getting them specially made up for roughly £183 (plus VAT)... and if you want wool carpets then you pay more?? If anyone IS INTERESTED, let me know. If you can't afford it then I'm sorry, they wouldn't make them for £40. Jim

You may be right but I'm buying some and I can't imagine I'm the only one? Seeing as I can't get them anywhere else I don't really see much of an option either. I'm hoping that when I have a firm set of orders that I may be able to get the price down anyway but don't really want to promise that too early on. best to under promise and over deliver and all that. The nylon ones are pretty good anyway and at £220 I think it's a bargain, especially when you can pay £60 just for a set of decent mats alone! Not everyone's cup of tea but the offer is out there :) Jim

Well I don't know about you lot but I've got fed up with not being able to get carpet sets for the Corrado.... So I'm having them made. They'll look something like this... (From Golf 2) Available in various colours and in either Wool or Nylon (both latex backed). They are stitched to shape but not heat/pressure moulded, although as they are latex backed they can be heated with a gun, pushed into shaped and weighted for the same end result to a degree. These are really good quality carpets, made in the UK by a trim specialist not a company in China (which I considered at first). The material was just awful and I if didn't want it then I guessed that nobody else would either. I haven't ordered yet as I am currently making the templates for them but want to order a minimum of ten sets (Don't all have to be the same colour or material). Costs will be roughly; Nylon - £220 and Wool at £330 (prices to be confirmed but this includes VAT but not delivery). If you're interested, let me know what type and colour you would like and I'll sort something out. I'll need contact details and payment up front (when the order is confirmed) as I don't have a spare £3k lying around to pay them up front with myself :? I'll take some pictures of the samples and get them up here asap. FYI - The sets do not include the boot carpet but I can order these seperately, not sure about cost yet. Jim

Totally agree :D

Welcome to forum Dickie, hope you enjoy your new purchase! Jim

Really boring post sorry but I need help!!! I'm now on the final straight and hopefully just about to finish to the changes to the OBD2 loom. Quite a technical question for you or anybody else reading this: I have the Corrado Bentley workshop manual so I have the pin layout for the T68 ECM connector but I don't have one for the Golf VR6 loom that I have so I can't find out an answer to this issue. For data transfer on the corrado there is a two pin connector with grey/white & Yellow cable coming from it. I have followed these back to the T68 connector at pins 43 (Grey/White) and pin 21 (Yellow). On the Golf loom there is a Grey/White cable going back to pin 43 but no yellow cable at all and no pin in slot 21 on the ECM connector. What the hell do I connector the yellow cable to that I'm going to transfer from the rado to the golf loom??? Does anybody have a pin diagram for the Golf VR6 ECM (I think it's a '96). It must have two data transfer pins surely? Many thanks for any help!! Jim Did you find any answers to your wiring problems Jim? I'm close to doing this conversion myself but have a feeling I may be underestimating the wiring problems/skills. Am I right in thinking its just the fusebox->ecu->multiplug loom that needs altering? Do you just use the complete OBD2 engine loom? I found my answer on the Canadian owners forum of all places. Yeah it's just the main loom from the ECU that needs a 'haircut'. I've finished (well I think I have) sorting out my loom but have left it unbound on the car as I can't test it until the engine is back in etc which will be a while I'm afraid. I can help you out with diagrams if you need them as I bought EKTA of ebay which was really helpful once you get the hang of it. Also, if you're like me, I struggled to understand the wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual (if you have one at that is) but it's worth persisting and learning how to read the diagrams. It really helps when you're trying to work out what stuff does. If you get stuck, give me a shout. Where did you get the OBD2 Loom from (what car/year etc). Jim

Timmy, Great work mate. Puts my project to shame at the moment; started mine in April this year but as I don't have a garage that you can actually get a car in, I'm left with working outside. Make doing bodywork a nightmare so I haven't touched it yet. Yours looks stunning though, I hope to god that mine turns out ok. Keep up the good work!!! Jim

Really boring post sorry but I need help!!! I'm now on the final straight and hopefully just about to finish to the changes to the OBD2 loom. Quite a technical question for you or anybody else reading this: I have the Corrado Bentley workshop manual so I have the pin layout for the T68 ECM connector but I don't have one for the Golf VR6 loom that I have so I can't find out an answer to this issue. For data transfer on the corrado there is a two pin connector with grey/white & Yellow cable coming from it. I have followed these back to the T68 connector at pins 43 (Grey/White) and pin 21 (Yellow). On the Golf loom there is a Grey/White cable going back to pin 43 but no yellow cable at all and no pin in slot 21 on the ECM connector. What the hell do I connector the yellow cable to that I'm going to transfer from the rado to the golf loom??? Does anybody have a pin diagram for the Golf VR6 ECM (I think it's a '96). It must have two data transfer pins surely? Many thanks for any help!! Jim

I'm gonna go one better and run cable back to inside the cabin where I'll put the relays...no need to waterproof them then (biggest problem with doing this conversion) I do have the entire car in bits and the loom out at the minute which does help though :lol:

better than what I had... http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/resources/ under Electrical Hope it helps. Jim

Ive wired them up like this but im not to sure its right.Hopefully someone will hook me up with a pic befor the re-test. Did you get this sorted? I've got a few diagrams etc that I can send you if you want? Jim

Just to update, the 2008 Seat calipers/carrier/discs don't fit :( However I have since got hold of some from ebay which do!! Cheers Jim

I have the Bentley Corrado workshop manual which has all of the wiring diagrams and a exploded view diagram of the golf loom and a key which goes with the diagram but unfortunately, because I suffer with a syndrome commonly known as 'stupid' I have trouble understanding the bentley diagrams. It all seems a bit foreign to me. A corrado version of the blown up golf diagram would be useful if anyone has one? Thanks for the advice Jim

Hello, I'm currently in the middle of giving my new golf loom a 'hair cut' and have got to a point where the two looms seem very similar now. However, there does seem to be a couple of extra connections on the rado loom that golf one now doesn't (well, never had), for example a black quite large square plug which looks like a relay plugs into it. What am I supposed to do; take this cabling and connector out of the rado loom and add it to the golf one or... well i don't have any other ideas actually :( Any help would be gratefully received. Oh, also, what 'fiddling' needs to be done to get the aux pump to work? Thanks Jim

Woo hoo, got some. Got them off a 2008 Seat Leon, good price too. Sleep now.

Original VR6, completely rebuilt though. I gave a chap a mountain bike on freecycle recently and it turned out that he used to be on the Audi Quattro rally team... knows a thing or two about engines and 'popping in' some quattro pistons. Not entirely sure how this is gonna end up... no doubt expensive and messy. :)

Erm....

Should be able to get the new part from here matey. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/Car-Parts Good luck Jim

Didn't ask, I'm not paying nearly £300 for them when I got a good set of calipers for £40 of the 'bay. Any ideas where I can get them? James

Any of the following.... Audi A3 1.8 20V Turbo from 1996 A3 Quattro 1.8 20V Turbo (110/132 KW) from 1998 A3 1.9 TDI (96 KW) from 2000 S3 Quattro 1.8 20V Turbo from 1999 TT 1.8 20V Turbo (110/132 KW) from 1998 TT Quattro 1.8 20V Turbo (132/165 KW) from 1998 Seat Toledo II 2.3 V5 from 1999 Leon 1.8 20V Turbo from 2000 Skoda Octavia 1.8 20V Turbo from 1998 Octavia 1.8 20V Turbo RS from 2000 Fabia vRS VW Golf IV 2.3 V5 from 11.1997 Golf IV 2.8 V6 24V 4motion from 1999 Golf IV 1.9 TDI (96/110 KW) from 2000 Golf IV 2.3 V5 from 1999 Golf IV 1.9 TDI (96 KW) from 2001 New Beetle 1.8 20V Turbo from 1999 New Beetle 2.3 V5 from 2000 James

Hi All, I'm trying to find front caliper carriers for a 312mm brake conversion and every breaker I speak with just laughs and says "no, they go in about ten minutes". I spoke to friendly VW dealer and they are £145 each (inc VAT) and I don't really want to pay that. Is there an untapped source for these things somewhere as I alsready have the calipers, hoses, bolts, spacers and time allotment from the wife to do the conversion!! Please can somebody help :help: Thanks James http://www.vr6corrado.wordpress.com

Hi Monza, I'm the guy who originally found these but I still haven't got to the point of ordering and fitting them myself. I'm doing a full restore on the rado and it's taking some time. The part number you need is DX90 at £5.50 per metere plus carriage and VAT. speak to Phil Howard at Seals Direct on 0845 226 3345. This part isn't on their website as far as I know which is why you can't find it. I did use the sample they sent me in various places around the fram to see any negative impact of using this rather than the original and I couldn't see any problems. The flat overhang is slightly longer which can be trimmed if you're that bothered. Sorry it's taken a while to reply buddy!! Good luck. Jim

Thank you so much. I'll take a pic to demonstrate our frustrations!! Jim

Hi All, I have a '93 Corrado VR6 and I'm putting back on the Anti Roll Bar. I can't remember which way up it goes and even though I've taken loads of photos throughout the project, I can't seem to find one which actually helps me. I have the ARB which uses the traditional brass droplinks... http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/2010/08/03/whats-more-annoying/ If ANYONE can provide a clear picture or instruction it would be most appreciated. Many thanks Jim

Nothing seemed to be straight forward with the gearbox removal. 1. To get the clutch plate off you'll need a spline socket (female); don't know what size as I didn't have one. I used my Irwin bolt grip and will replace with new ones when the time comes. I think there are about 6 or 8 of these from memory, about 10-11mm I think. 2. Once the plate is off the clutch just comes straight off, no bolts or anything (I think, can't really remember now - doh). 3. To get the flywheel off you'll firstly need to either a.) Lock it in position using a flywheel lock and then use a spline socket (male) and ratchet to remove the 10-12 spline bolts which hold the flywheel on, or b.) if you don't have a flywheel lock then you can use an impact wrench if you happen to have one. This is what I did and because of the inertia of the flywheel and the force of the wrench, the flywheel didn't turn whilst trying to get the bolts off. 4. You'll then need a flywheel puller which looks like this...http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-13pc-FLYWHEEL ... 036wt_1165 DON'T BUY THE LASER MINI FLYWHEEL PULLER AS IT DOESN'T FIT!!! This is what I did so I unfortunately wasn't able to get the flywheel off this weekend; I'll save that for another day now. Oh by the way, that ebay link was simply the first one I found, I'm not trying to sell something!! :D The engine frame that I have is a sealy one where there are four black adjustable 'pegs' which you line up with four holes on the block once the gearbox is removed. You won't be able to use the existing bolts as they won't be long enough to go through the peg and then screw sufficiently into the block. You'll need 4x M12x100mm Bolts for this job. I don't think they need to be high tensile but I don't think it would do any harm. I couldn't find the bloody things anywhere so I opted for 4x M12x140mm studs with nuts and washers. I essentially made my own bolts, which in fact I found quite usefull... not a bad idea to do the same. I bought them for about £3 for a well known DIY store that rhymes with 'sticks' :norty: Once the clutch is off, I was able to get the pegs on the engine stand to fit flush to the block so it's not actually necessary to remove the flywheel to mount it. The only problem with this is that when I come to taking out the crank, I'll need to de-mount the engine and remove the flywheel, but hey, no biggy. Best of luck with the engine removal, it's quite satisfying to stand back and see what you've done afterwards too! If you need any other help, feel free to PM me and I'll give you my moby number. Have fun Jim