jimbobbalooba

Easier than we thought it would be but still came with some difficulties... Taking the weight... Engine out!! yay!! Gearbox removed - A few big obvious bolts but missed the plate at the bottom with two 10mm bolts which were so covered in grime that they weren't seen. Once these were removed it took a bit of 'jiggling' and then the box came off; it's bloody heavy and it was well worth draining the oil from it the day before to help with the weight reduction. The gearbox... Setting up the engine to fit onto the engine frame... What's left behind... Tying up the driveshafts with zippy ties to stop them dragging on the floor. A slightly raised front end now. EXCLUSIVE - Andi's (the forum admin) new motor... very nice although it's no corrado.

No worries dude, viewtopic.php?f=25&t=91150 I simply haven't had the time to do the group buy so the details are on the forum (link above) Enjoy and let me know how you get on as I haven't even had a chance to do mine yet!!! Cheers Jim

Great, thanks for letting me know. I bought these last night from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... _500wt_956 Only a fiver plus delivery and they should do the trick, they seem quite long but I'm sure I can do something with them. Thanks again. Jim

Sorry, really boring question but I'm taking out the engine in a week or so, and in preparation have bought a Sealy 450kg Engine stand. These come with everything you need other than the bolts to attach the engine to it. :shrug: What bolts should I be using to attach the engine, I've been told 19mm but is that M12? How long do they need to be and do they need to be high tensile?? Again sorry for the boring question but I'm borrowing the lift from a mate's dad and only have it for a weekend and don't want to have to rush around trying to find the right bolts when the engine is hanging in the air!! Thanks a million Jim PS I did search on the forum and the question has been asked but the chap never got a response. :cry:

Hiya, I'm no expert but it sounds like the switch. Both the hazard and indicators work of the same fuse (17 on a VR6) therefore if the indicators work then it would lead me to believe that the actual switch is the issue. Having said that, looking at the fuse box it appears that the hazard does have it's own relay (it doesn't say anything about it being used for the indicators but it might). Not particularly expensive I think either way. Good luck, let me know what it was when you find out!! Jim

Awesome... hello ebay.... What size should I buy or will a £25 kit of various sizes be ok? They all seem to be imperial measures rather than metric will they still work? Cheers Jim

Spline keys can be bought off ebay, I got my spline key for the engine cover bolts off ebay and it was only a couple of quid. :) Jim

Do these irwins remove round head allen bolts then?? :shrug: Jim

I also found this one too.... http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/2010/03 ... ns-guides/ :) Might be some different photos. Jim

Ooops, label everything... erm, not something I've been doing but I have been taking lots of photos!! Cheers Jim

Thanks Danny, I thought I should try and contribute a bit really. I'm quite good at coming up with new fixes etc so thought I should share these with the happy folk on here. Cheers Jim

Hi All, I've spent some time searching the forum(s) for any advice on engine removal. This will be taking place for me on the 24th April and it's the first time I've taken out an engine. Andi has thankfully offered to assist in exchange for curry and beer but I was wondering if anybody else had any advice. I'm open to all advice really; general pitfalls, things to look out for... "don't forget to undo this nut first" for example. FYI I'll be using an engine hoist with chain and will then transfer to 450KG Engine frame that my wife has bought me for my birthday (Thanks baby!!xx) The front of the car is off and I'm in the midst of draining all fluids. http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/2010/04 ... e-removal/ Please feel free to mention anything that you think will be useful!!! Thanks Jim

I wouldn't worry about it being a sign of a worn engine or anything. But no one like to see their throttle body covered in oil! The VR6 is particularly prone because of the short pipe from the rocker cover to the intake. There isn't enough distance for the oil vapours to fall out of suspension and condense on the surrounding pipes etc. VW tried to combat it with a fine mesh screen (the disc part of the breather pipe) and a clump of wire brass or copper wire shoved in the breather outlet in the rocker cover. Neither really work that great. Two options though, 1 - A decent remote catch can, such as this (I have one myself and the quality is excellent) :- http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Stealth ... p_289.html That will filter out the unwanted oil vapours and keep your throttle and intake clean. Option 2 - Vent to atmosphere. Just run a long hose from the rocker cover down to the steering rack and let it all flood out, as it were! As David pointed out, it's not MOT friendly, but I've done it for 4 years and not been picked up on it yet, so it's up to you if you want to risk it. You will get an occasional waft of breather fumes in the car and in the winter, you'll get a nice yellowy white mayo mixture forming on the subframe / steering rack as the oil vapours condense a lot quicker in cold weather and mix with water (steam) vapours.... Personally I'd go with the catch can and mount it next to the radiator, and that way, the output is "uphill" and less chance of oil getting into the engine, it will just condense and run back down the hose into the tank again. I'll be doing that myself when I get round to it! Think I've seen similar on ebay and wondered what they were for... not stupid, just lazy :wink: I'll have another look around nearer to when the engine goes back in but this definitely makes me feel better about the whole thing. Thanks Jim

Is this something I should try and combat or should I just relax a bit. I'm going to be fabricating a fair bit for a cold air intake system and could stick in a run-off valve or something; has this been done before? Possibly run a feed back up to the oil filler neck?? Is this just oil or oily water? Thanks Kevhaywire you've put my mind at rest a little!! Jim

Hi all, I have been stripping down the front end in preparation of the engine removal and when I took off the air ducting from air box to the throttle body I noticed oil where it probably shouldn't be!! :confused4: (Bottom picture in blog post) http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/2010/04 ... e-removal/ Although I'm doing a complete engine rebuild, I'd love to know why this is?? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks Jim

That's an idea but multiple joins may lead to multiple failure/leak points in the future. Think I'd rather trim the overhang if I'm that bothered. Once I've done mine completely I'll take more photos and share... jim

200 quid?? Really?? Blimey I might buy one then. Now I really don't know what to do, although I would still like the challenge. Other than ripping the old one out (which is happening soon anyway) and looking at it, are there any other plans to making a loom for the Corrado VR6? In the Bentley perhaps? I don't have one of those yet but will soon hopefully. I also like the idea of everything being heat shielded properly although I guess I could buy a new loom and shield that correctly instead. Hmm.... what to do. :confused4: Jim

You can't buy them anymore.. they are obsolete. :( When they were available, they were some crazy price, somthing like £150 :shock: jimbobbalooba - I'd be interested in buying some too, 10mtrs for me please :D I'll order some in a couple of weeks to allow some time for others to see the pictures and let me know if they want any. I'd need payment up front though if that's ok?? Andi will vouch for me :D Jim

I asked the same question and got the discontinued answer also. I've taken a few more pictures of the seal and put them on my blog.... take a look if you want. http://vr6corrado.wordpress.com/ Jim

Fla, you can still get this from vw. tbh i dont think this is an easy seal to make compared to the door type seals. these are extruded out and the seal you describe sounds like the one which is moulded. Yeah you're right, I don't think they'd make that kind of thing, they mainly just do the extrusions. Sorry bud. Jim

I've decided (well... pending any horror stories from you lot) to make a brand new wiring loom for the VR6. New or refurbished multi connectors but all new cable, terminals and webbing/shielding. Am I nuts to even think about doing this?? I'm not in particular hurry as this is a loooong term restoration project and I'm quite patient (actually that's a complete lie but I can follow instructions). Electricity has never been my friend when it comes to wiring around the house but I think this is something slightly different as I'll essentially just be copying what's already been made. Thoughts and suggestions would be very welcome. Jim

Hiya, I happen to be replacing mine at the minute and have a picture to hand... I've also been trying to find a door seal specialist and have found the following... I can buy this at £5.50 per metre plus £9.50 carriage (plus VAT). You need about 4m per door, I roughly measured this earlier today. I was gonna order 10m but if anybody wants me to order more and I can cut it up and see if we can save some cash? I'm gonna order next weekend so let me know by then if anybody is interested. Cheers Jim

Not right now mate,I thought you would have got rid of this no problems though? You had alot of interest? Tonnes of interest but from people who knew nothin about corrados. The last bloke said the dent would cost a grand to fix (when i have a quote from not the cheapest person in the world for £300), and brought along the 'know it all mate' saying "ooh the wheel bearing sound like they're on their way out", just buy trying to move the tyre. I'm pretty sure that anyone who knows anything about cars knows that you cannot check bearings whilst the weight of the car is on the wheels, it's difficult enough when the cars jacked up..... anyway... there i go again. People just rub me up the wrong way sometimes and it p*sses me right off. On the up side i get to keep the car which means i get to sort the charger with a stage four conversion now which i'm looking forward to.

Brilliant.... will give it a go this eve. Thanks very much. (BTW I didn't crash the car it came like that!!!) J

ok, thanks so far. Where is the best place to disconnect the pipe and are the pipes that go to the doors etc easy to locate?? Thanks again