adamukcorrado

Yeah they are standard seats, they look very similar underneath, is there anyway i can tell without taking the seat out? even if i take the seat out how would i tell the difference?

The forward/backward linkage on top of the gear box has a slotted linkage between the cable and the box itself. Currently the cable is connected tightly with 13mm bolt, but the connection still slides in the slot, - Is it supposed to to give a bit of play? or should it be tight in the slot and only used in adjustment? I have had the car for 5 years and the shift is fine, just thought i had better check incase it could be improved!

The drivers seat in my current 'rado (1990 16v) won't drop down as low as the passenger seat, or as low as in my previous corrado (same age and model). I have looked under both the passenger and drivers seats and can't see any obvious differences, or any extra adjustment possibilities. Any ideas why there might be a dfference??

I have had a 'cheap' Raceland 6 branch manifold fitted for the last 4 years without it being heat wrapped with no problems at all. I am running it with a full milteck exhaust and Cat bypass and a BMC CDA air box. Althought i couldn't give you Hp figures (never had it rolling road tested) this combination mods certainly give you much better throttle response and the sound is fanstastic, proper V6 growl and fanstic crackle on down shift (well worth the money alone!) I certainly don't believe heat wrapping will change performance - on anything over tick over speeds the gases will pass through the red hot manifold far too quickly for cooling to affect density etc, however not having it wrapped makes the cabin warmer (very noticable in the summer without air con!) but i did have to remove a heat shield on the bulkhead to fit the manifold (probably due to my car originally being a 1.8 16v)

In conclusion, i have investigated further and i found that my passenger mirror had stopped working because one of the wires had worn through and shorted out where the wires pass through the door hinge, and therefore was blowing the fuse (No 14) that also controls the reversing lights. To fix the problem, i stripped the loom out of the passenger door and tidied it up and re-wrapped it with new loom tape, and put grommets on the bare bulkhead that had caused the problem originally. Many thanks to those that took the time to reply, it turned into a nice repair- visible results, the opportunity to tidy and improve old bits, and most importantly completely free!! :clap:

Thats interesting, my passenger mirror stopped moving about a month ago, and as it's the same fuse i bet a wire has broken/shorting out, or a connentor is corroded. i'll investigate further at the weekend and update when i have found the problem. thanks for your help.

yeah the glove box light is'nt working, i'll check that isn't corroded etc tomorrow, i wouldn't expect it to be tho. i'll up date this thread if any new systoms crop up, but i'm driving 300miles in it tomorrow so i don't want to dismantle too much today in case something serious develops before i get home! Let me know if you can think of anyway else to check, Many Thanks, :salute:

fuse number 14 and it's a 15amp, the fuse box cover states it's for reversing lights, what else might it supply?

Not sure if this is engine bay or exterior?, but my reversing lights keep blowing the fuse, sometimes when engaging reverse, sometimes simply by turning the ignition on, I have checked the connections on the top of the gear box, and swapped the load relief relay (number 4), i have checked and cleaned all the earths and bulb holders, all are good condition. what should i check next? There is sometimes a short pause between turning the ignition and the engine firing up which may indicate a tired ignition switch, could this be related?

Good stuff, Thanks guys,

Thinking about it, i can just use the headlight and main beam relays.... sorry I'm being a little slow this evening!! :iamwithstupid: What number relay is it tho?

Any idea which one to use? I've got a full set from a 1990 16v to choose from...

I'm just pulling together the bits to build myself an uprated headlight loom, I have a full set of Relays from my old 16v' rado, are any of them suitable for the job? I realise that it is probably easier to buy new, just seems a shame to have them all sitting there gathering dust when they could possibly be reused?

Woody, i'm talking about the Rubber belt and pulley tensioner being responsible for the noise, not the timing chains, as i have said, the tappets and timing chains and all tensioners are brand new, yet the tappety noise remains unchanged. I realise everything that JMR has replaced has been replaced with VAG - I paid for it! :-(

I've also been talking to stealth and kev 'cheesewire' and they both think it could be the serpenine belt and tensioner that is responsible for the rattly noise, they can't fully explain why the belt makes the noise, but stealth said they have come across the problem on severval Vr6's and kev found that using a cheap GSF belt gave his car the tappety noise,

Yeah i realise that i won't know exactly what is required before removing the head, i'm going to whip the plugs out first to check cylinders 1 and aren't more oily than the others (they are the pistons the bore gets worn on first - would that not explain your oily number 6??) if the valve stems and seals are worn the cylinders are generally oiled more uniformly. The head was last off about 2k miles ago when i replaced all tappets and JMR reported it all to be in good condition - hence not replacing things then To be honest if the bores are worn or it requires more work than basic cylider head stuff such as seals, then i will break it up and buy something new to use as a daily drive, as i can't justify spending more cash on it as a weekend toy.

Is there a way of removing the valves with out the proper VW valve lifting tool?

To redeem myself alittle, i could spend the £300 saved, on a new set of cams to fit whilst the head is off.. :-)

The tappets are nearly new any way, and i'm not using any oil, to replace the guides will cost £70, then £250 to have them fitted,+ £100 on head gasket etc, if i just do the seals it will effective save £300... 2 years ago i would of replaced it all with out hessitation, because as you say, it's worth doing whilst it's all open, and if i used it as a daily drive it would be worth it, but it only comes out to play when the sun is out (not often in manchester). I bet it will only do another 10k in it's life, so there's no point in it having a cylinder head that will do another 100k... christ i'm sounding old... :-(

I've spoken to a couple of cylinder head specialist, (stealth, Ric Wood, TSR) and your looking at £400 ish to have them re-con the head, They all said it's probably just the stem seals that have gone hard, Therefore i can do that myself?? - it's obviously a big and time consuming job, but there is no need for pressing guides in etc?? that would mean in terms of parts i would just need; Headgasket set and bolts, and Stem seals? Realistically the car only does 2000 miles a year, and isn't going to last forever, so it doesn't need a full recon head with new valves and guides etc, Any thoughts or advice??

anyone?

I'm intending to do the work over xmas whilst i've got some time off work and i'm hoping to get a copy of the bently manual before then, so i was just researching at the moment so i can get the bits together. Thanks anyway tho, Any thoughts on whether worns valve guides etc could be responsible for the tappetty noise?

Once removed, will it be obvious if the valves are worn?? It will get expensive replacing all the valves, so i will probably order the bits i certainly need (guides and seals) and then order valves if i need them, It doesn't matter how long car is off the road for,

First the problem... My Vr6 has had a tappetty noise to the engine as long i have owned it (4years), it there about 75% of the time, mainly when hot, i have replaced all tappet's/lifters with new (VAG), i have replaced oil pump (to ensure good pressure to tappets etc) i have replaced timing chains and tensioners, the head has been off couple of times now for works by JMR but the noise continues unchanged! (but i am yet to replace valve guides/stems/seals) Is a worn valve or guide likely to make an occasional slight rattly noise? I am now getting quite a lot of blue smoke on overun (not noticably using oil tho yet) so the time has come to fully recon head. I'm going to remove and refit the head myself as i want to know how to do it, but will use a machine shop for the head re-furb as obviously i don't have the presses required to fit guides. I will check cylinders 1 & 6 before comencing to check i'm not looking at worn cylinders, what other checks can i do to confirm problems before disabling the car on my back garden - how much will a compression test cost & is it worth it? I'm getting parts from USA from http://www.spturboparts.com/OEM/viewPro ... alve+Grind What are all the parts i should order? is it worth buying new valves or just guides and seals etc? The website only lists 2.8 us spec parts - are they the same for the 2.9 uk spec? Thanks!

Good stuff, Thanks,