adamukcorrado

What are the torque settings for the cylinder head bolts on a vr6?

thats a useful but of info, cheers for that, will use sparingly, looking forward to a sunny weekend in the peak district with a nice shiney 'rado, working beautifully, with that lovely vr6 noise back to full potential!

it's already washed properly (is actually from the outside of the cylinder to the inside on a BMC to wash the dirt back off the filter) Then spraying oil on the outside is the opposite to what toad reccommended above... all very confusing! and not exactly life or death!

Yeah thats what i expected, just thought i'd check as it would be easier to spray the outside and thought it may just soak in/through anyway.

Probably a silly question, but which side of the filter should i apply the oil after cleaning?? i'm using Green cotton filter cleaner and oil, it states you need to apply it to the interior of the filter, but a BMC is the opposite of 'standard' induction filters, so should i apply the oil to the 'interior' where the dirty air enters, or the outside where the clean air leaves? I guess it makes no difference, but i could get a more uniform cover on the outside.....

I've found it and had a look, not as nice as my girlfriend described (or i remembered from years ago) but certainly a bargain,

Just heard she has sold it for £600!!! :cuckoo: it had brand new BBS wheels and tyres! i'd of bought it for that! women...... :roll:

My girlfriends cousin has just moved back to england from south of france, she has a beautiful Mk1 Golf GTI cabriolet, it's dark green, with a cream roof and cream leather interior, all in excellent condition, The problem is it's left hand drive, and has previously been registered in several European countries, - currently has french plates, and french papers. She's looking to sell it here in the Uk, whats it worth???? What costs are involved with getting it registered here in UK? :scratch:

Yeah money was spent when i had a few less out goings and the car got used, now the time is approaching went other things need to take priority, as i have only done 4k miles in last 3 years can't really justify keeping it! certainly not that desperate to sell just yet tho... :)

I bought my vr6 3.5 years ago for £2k, I have spent and have receipts for about £8k, I have only done 4000 miles in three years!! and now it's in the FOR SALE section for £3k :cuckoo:

I have sorted my gear box by greasing the linkages on the top of the box (should of thought of doing that sooner really!) and tightening the bolt at the end of the cable- it had come loose - hence the vague feeling previously, I have also fitted a nylon bush made by a chap on here, which has greatly improved the whole feel of the box. All really cheap / free fixes! :clap:

Finally fixed both problems and they where unrelated, A core plug had blown behind the alternator belt which was blowing oil every where, but also the breather pipe on the air in take was occasionally dripping oil through a badly connected joint on to the manifold, - the problem was made worse as there was a blanking grommet missing from the bulkhead which was allowing the smoke and fumes to enter the cabin. - Both nice cheap fixes for a change! :cheers:

I used Bostik spray adhesive in the end as i was struggling to find anything else, did the job well tho - just a shame i had to buy a massive tin for such a tiny job - if anyone wants their head lining glued, come on round!

Good stuff, Thanks for that! :salute:

The head lining has come adrift on the sunroof, you can see that it's just where the structure of the foamy material is breaking down with age, I need some kind of spray glue to achive a nice even coverage and spray it in without making it worse, Can anyone recommend a product to use? I don't want anything too strong or aggrressive - such as those glues you can't use on certain types of plastic, as i don't think the old lining would take it!

Out of interest what kind of approximate cost is a full respray these days? Not back to metal or anything, just to fix a couple of chips, scratches, small panel repair, and sort out the dodgey job someone has done it the past!, I realise the car will never be worth a vast amount and so not looking to spend £000's! (considering i have already spend probably 3-4 times more than i could ever get back! :cuckoo: )

Maybe not, thats something else to check when i have another go, cheers,

It has done it both from starting from bare plastic and from sound old paint, The cracking starts after few weeks and continues getting worse over a period of months. I suspect too much paint in a short time may be the problem then, although i always wait the recommended time between coats but i may be applying it too heavily. Car's covered at the moment, but when i take the grill spoiler off to repaint it i will post some pics, Thanks for your help

Can anyone tell me why i have been doing wrong- whenever i have painted any bits of trim (rear number plate panel for example) I take great care in rubbing down, cleaning, priming, undercoat, topcoat, then lacquer. Always looks fantastic when finished, but then within a month it starts to craze and crack. What am i doing wrong? I check the primer/undercoat/topcoat are all compatible - (both on the cans and with local shop), i ensure the surfaces are correctly cleaned, painted at correct temperature etc etc. i have only tried aerosol spray cans but have tried different brands. Any advice would be much apprieciated before i attempt my grill spoiler again! cheers. Adam

Good stuff, that really is every thing you need to know!

But what happens if it is not reset correctly after having battery disconnected, does the engine run less efficently? what are the problems/ sypmtoms that can be expected by never doing ther reseting proceedue? - not all (not many!) VR6 owners will have easy access to the software to plug in to complete the proceedure, are there methods to do it without the software?

Just been reading through the ECU reset proceedure, Half way down the Wiki it states that you need to plug in the diagnostic software to complete the reset procedure, stating if that if you don't "it's not worth carrying out the earlier procedure" I don't keep the battery in my C over winter as the car is not used, once a month i go and turn it over etc, and it always starts first time and idles and runs beautifully, The car is a conversion so i doubt i could use diagnostic software on it anyway, so what am i missing out by not doing so? Is it just the diagonstic's that won't work with out calibrating the ecu, or does it effect the everyday running?

I'm using VR6 clocks,

Excellent, i have a full compliment of spare relay's so i'll stick one in and try, probably won't be until the weekend tho. If the relay is duff would other lights and sensors not be working? or is that relay solely for the warning light? as i mentioned previously the temp gauge works fine and the fans come on as required,

Nope, carries on flashing!