Niges16V

I was hoping to get some carbon tubes of my mate so I could make my own cold air induction kit, but ended up getting me a box of stilton!! (don't even like the stuff) :roll: Oh, and who said that changing the CV joint was easy?? taken me a whole day already and it's still not off the hub! Had to hacksaw the ball joints off now need to buy a hub pulley :brickwall:

80mm I believe.

Hi Storm_VR6, don't mean to misguide you from the experts on here, but I had a very similar problem a few weeks back and suspected the key/transponder. Engine would turn over but not fire, only on occasions though! One thing I did notice was that there was no clicking from the vacinity of the relays when this happend. If I fiddled about down there then it would fire (sometimes). I changed the ignition switch and cleaned the ECU relay and have had no probs since. I suggest you remove the ECU relay (no. 109 I think) and carfully pop off the top and clean the contacts inside - mine felt a bit sticky. I assume from 11 years of on/of/on/off. I'm think that the movement of the car while being pushed might be making the contact?? Maybe a longshot but it certainly proved to be the cheapest fix ever on myC! Good Luck

The Autowatch 160 (CAT 1) is very popular as it is 'British', simple, reliable and sells at £300 fitted. Alot of installers prefer this system as they have very few problems with it. I had one installed a couple of months back and found it better than the Clifford Concept 300 I had before. If you just want a good alarm/imob system then this is ideal, if you want to add gimmicks such as starting the engine remotely then go for the more expensive ones.

How weird! Came in early to work this morning to post a 'I need help' thread and you guys had already started it last night!! Had an intermittant starting problem on my 95M VR6 and last night I was stuck at the fuel pumps for 20 mins until it got started. Basically the engine turns over but doesn't fire, and I also notice that the relay panel doesn't click. I have in the past waggled the wires & relays abit and then it started, but not last night. I thought it was a loose connection to the transponder box under the dash as the guy who fitted my new CAT1 system a couple of months back mentioned that it caught him out a couple of times as the loom to it was a bit tight, but I can't find what he meant. Where should I start, 109 relay or take it to a VAG dealer with a new credit card?? I sometimes wish I had stuck to my 2l 16V, so much simpler!!

Thanks Guys, more information than I could have hoped for. I will be checking the GB mnt but I do suspect it will be a sensor/ECU issue. VAG COM here I come.

I upgraded to a VR6 a few wks back from a valver, it certainly is a different beast in alot ways, but still fantastic!! Noticed my first problem today, the throttle seems to be a bit tempermental when you lift off as it cuts the engine completely for a moment which gives a bit of a jolt. First noticed it at slow speeds and thought it needed a slight adjustment on the timing (but I don't think this is possible on a VR). Now I am experiencing it at motorway speeds ie. when you ease off from an acceleration, the car jolts as though the electrics have been cust for a moment. Does the VR have a throttle sensor or similar that may be the cause? It's not the fr mount as I changed this to a VT just after I got it. Any advise greatly appreciated.

I have just been quoted £69 inc balance & fitting. I think they are also £59 just for the tyre from myyres.com I haven't had these before, do you recommend?

don't forget to clean out the area under the windscreen (from under bonnet) and remove the plastic guard box over the heater fan inlet as the seal is bound to be rotton. With all this heavy rain it is sure to be getting in this way. Mine was soggy as well, turned out to be a hole in the door membrane and perished seal on heater inlet. Just try to dry the thick lagging out under the carpet now - not easy!!

I used a meter on my sensors and found one to be 'open circuit' compaired to the other at 1.1k ohms. Great, just pop it out and put in another, I thought. But in pure Corrado fashion, not that easy! How the flock do you get the little tinkers out????

Sounds Nice. If you are serious about selling drop me a line. Like yourself, I've spent the last year getting my 2L 16V running really well but now I want more power, but it is difficult to find a C that has been looked after as well.

Help needed Please! Failed MoT a couple of weeks back on CO emissions so did the full on recon cyl head change with necessary gaskets & seals. Just put it in again today feeling very confident as it is running very smooth, but failed again. It was OK at idle but is giving 0.47% CO @ 2700rpm when pass is 0.3%. It had a new Cat last year for MoT, the timing is spot on, new injector seals, can't think what else it can be unless the hi flow filter has an affect. Any tips would be appreciated as my C is left in the garage for the mechanic to clock a few hours against!!

Hi flusted, are you sure the cut out is only on the KR cams? All 3 sets I have seem to have it!!?? I will try measuring them tonight and see if they match your figures. What part of 'The Island' are you from? I'm a Ventnor boy meself.

I'm a little confused (probably due to the heat!) and wondered if anyone could help. Spent the last 2 days taking the head off my 9a engine to replace with a (supposedly) KR head which I have just had reconditioned. I obviously wanted to keep the KR cams for that extra bit of fun, but when I compared the 2 heads the cam part numbers are very similar. To make me more confused I also compared with another pair of (supposedly) KR cams which I had purchased some time ago and they are different again!! 9a head = (exh) 027 WTR, (intake) 027M WTR KR head = (exh) 027 WTR (intake) 027 WTR cams = (exh) 027 WWO 3e (intake) 027 WWO 9f I did a search and found a thread stating the actual p/numbers of both but they don't even cone close to these. Any guidence would be greatly appreciated.