Niges16V

Have you sussed out how to do the door cards yet? I was looking at this some time ago and gave up as it looked quite tricky

easy peasy, they just unscrew. The difficult bit is unscrewing it off the rod so I would suggest you get the complete rod & end complete for an extra couple of poonds. Yes, may as well do it at the same time as your bones while your hands are dirty!

I fitted the TT seats and they work very well. Mine are bolted to a 5mm steel strip that sits on the lip of the runners. With the TT seat in the fully down position I find that it is approx equaly to the second to bottom setting on the std seat.

My Mrs has a MkIII Golf and always moans when she has to take my VR (as she did today!). Main reasons being 1) difficult to get in & out (especially now I have the Audiscape door pods) 2) poor visability out back 3) she's not used to it. but she does like the power and the fact that the brakes are a huge improvement on the Goof, cos they stop the car! I drove her Golf in today as I need to take it in the garage for cam belt, and I must say it is easier to drive. The Rado is a drivers car and needs more input in general, but you do get alot more back. As for fuel, I find the VR more economical than the 2l 16V (I had one before). I average 29mpg on a tank with just short journeys to work (8 miles), but when on a run it quite easily manages 33-36 mpg. Women are funny things, so don't assume anything and let her make the decision (with a bit of persuasion of course)

I was in a similar situation a while back, just spent £1.5k on cyl head rework, new wheels & lots of other bits on my valver, realised I needed to spend a load more on suspension etc, but it would still be a valver! Bought a nice VR6, swopped over the nice bits - steering wheel, stereo, speakers, lights etc so I now have a nicer VR which I am very pleased with! If your valver is now up together then it will be alot easier to sell than if it wasn't. This is quite important with cars of this age. Go on, do it! VR's are great fun and worthy of restoring. Don't take any notice of the 'high running costs' as they are very similar, just 2 extra spark plugs and a splash more oil. Fuel consumption was the same for me 27-30 mpg

If your leater box gogs have jumped then yes, that is more complicated! One of my box levers is a bit stiff which in conjuction with a stiff cables does cause concern. But the thought of taking the dash out scares me, so I am very gently with heater dials and avoid using them.

If the dials are still intact and moving the lever arms OK then it is probably the bowden cables (or whatever they are called). As they are now quite old and in a warm dry place they dry out and the friction increases, this makes it difficult for the plastic mechanics to move them so something snaps. If you have the dials out you can push and pull the cable to see how stiff they are, bare in mind they need to be very smooth for the plastic bits to deal with. I had/have the same problem, seem OK but when you add the bend as when the dials are in possition it is enough to make the cogs jump. I think you can get the cable from ECP ect for just a few squid.

Hmm, your Bora does look nicer with the bigger rims and your also right about them being in better condition. I'll have a look round for some of your suggestions, but she does have a problem with 'big' cars so I think she won't like.

I had a Leon Cupra as a company car for some time, it was nice but the interior is a bit bland, I hadn't considered the Skoda. I was thinking of staying VW as I can find my way round them now....but I would consider other options. Did wonder about the Alpha 147 2l, not sure on a Yaris though!!

Need to get the wife a newer car for between £3-5k She currently has a MkIII 1.8SE which she likes, although not very powerful so wanted to get something a bit more 'tasty'! The obvious choice is another Golf - 4Mo or 1.8T A Bora (same as above) or A3 1.8 sport or 1.8T. The Bora seems to be apprx £1500 cheaper than Golf of the same age/mls which is appealing, but I do like the A3! Trouble is these are a year so so older and at the 100k mark. Anyone know how these engines are post 100k? What would you guys suggest??

Keep us informed as this is exactly what I plan to do within the next couple of months. I have been looking at the Bora's as they are soo much cheaper than the Golf. Really interested in what the 4mo is like to live with and whether it is 'wife' friendly! Well done!

Just say to yourself, "it's only nuts & bolts"! That's what I did when I needed the cylinder head refurbed on my old valver! It was a bit daunting at first but as long as you take your time, readup and think about things then you can pretty much do anything. You have the hardest bit sorted which is a suitable garage, the next important factor is quality tools, not the cheapo stuff as this is what gives you problems. on a 10+ yr old car there are alot of rusty nuts n bolts that can easily shear, then you will wish you used a garage!! I have done everything on your list myself recently except for the rear beam bushes & brake lines. The rest is doable providing you have the tools. I suggest you use the good old forum to check what you need before you start.

If you were thinking of changing in the near future anyway and you now have someone wanting to buy then yes, you would be a fool not to take the opportunity. The chances of you finding a buyer when you want one who is willing to pay the money you want is very difficult. You have to factor in a few entries into Autotrader etc which also adds to the whole cost!

I've changed all my bushes and use FK konigs but on a conservative drop and find it a world away from how it was a year ago with the original kit on. The most surprising change was the rear axle bushes which really did make a difference, only £40 or so to buy but alot more to fit!! Zippy, if you are going to the south coast meet again next month then you are welcome to take mine for a trundle down the road. I now have the TT seats bolted down properly and the stereo as it should be!

I fitted one and I saw the same improvement again as I did when I first fitted the stainless cat back. It makes the car breath so much better, I noticed more improvement in driving around town as it seemed more effortless. My MoT is due soon so I am allowing time to buy a new set of nuts & bolts and an hour to change it over. Well worth it in my opinion.

I suggest you call your insurers and ask how much they will penalise you for based on the repair being about £700-1000, if that sounds ok then you could get a few bits painted as well! Bear in mind you will have an excess to pay so you need to make sure it is worth it! If you have a high excess like me (£450!) then it is probably best to cover it yourself. You could always save a few bob by getting the hardware from a breakers. Oh, and you can use any garage you like, although they sometimes prefer thier approved ones, but you will probably have to get a quote or 2.

I fitted a Goof Vr6 subframe to my C VR6. All exactly the same except for the 2 fixing plates that are to the rear of the car. The golf ones are a few inches longer and the furthest fixing hole needs moving (re-drilling). Nothing too difficult, just time consuming when on your own as you don't want to chance cocking up another subframe and you only have yourself to blame!!

The memory problem is due to the 2 live wires being the wrong way round. There should be a constant live for memory but this is obviously switched on yours, as it was on both my C;s and the Mrs Goof.

Cheers guys, I think the bodyshop is the way to go. I did actually use them a couple of years ago when I was hit by another woman driver (I think they hate me!!) and it all turned out OK. I did actually get whisked off to A&E in a ambulance this morning, but they were very busy so the wait was going to be hours. I said I was going to walk out so they got a doc to give me a quick checkover and told me to take it easy and make sure I'm with someone. Not sure whether being confined to a sofa with a splitting headache deserves compo??!!

Got 'T' boned this morning driving into work! My drivers door is now concave and jammed. I also smacked my head pretty hard on the door frame, so probably have mild concussion. But you know how it is, you just worry about te car!! I am insured with Brentacre but have a £400 excess, although it was the other drivers fault I believe I will still need to pay this until the claim is finalised, I will also have to use the bodyshop selected by insurer. The other option is to use the bodyshop across the road from where I work (which is convenient) and they specialise in 'no fault' claims. This means they will take the whole claim into thier hands, provide a car, do the work and claim off the other drivers insurance. Their solicitors will also be on the phone smartish to see if I was injured. As I am still very dazzed i'm not sure which route to take, option 2 seems sensible but I don't want to encourage the 'claims culture' we are in, but then I do have a blinding headache and still haven't stopped spinning! Anyone else been in a similar situation recently??

Red is live to connects to the spade that the fuse is on (and insulated from holder) Brown is earth so connects to the other that also is in direct contact with the metal holder. Make sure the fuse is not going to touch the -ve pin otherwise it will short again. Always a good idea to check the new fuse with a meter as it is easy to blow with the solder iron!

You should brace the hub carrier before whacking away otherwise it will just move with the shaft! But if you are taking the driveshafts off anyway then do that with the carrier on and then it's easier to seperate.

You need to disable the 'dim dip' by disconnecting the big resistor - passenger wing I think, yellow & black wire ?? Theres loads on it other threads.

I had a Miltek cat back fitted earlier in the year and noticed an improvement in driveability, then fitted the cat bypass a few weeks later andnoticed the same improvement once again. It just makes the engine 'breath' alot easier and therefore improves driveability. It is most noticable in normal driving, even around town as it is more effortless. Not too sure top end as it all gets a bit manic at 4-6k rpm! Well worth the money and even an hour or so changing back to the std before MoT

I'm also interested in this. I just want to do something with the fabric bit on the cards as it's getting a but 'tired'. Can't justify sending them off to MJ due to the cost and it doesn't look like it would be too difficult, just need to know some tips on how avoid creases. Probably a few beers in it if you can do a 'How to..' guide.