Niges16V

That's what I'm having to do, but only because I can't undo 2 wheel bolts (broke 2 sockets) and the allen key slot on the top strut split when trying to undo! This was after spending 3 hours doing the rears as the bottom strut bolts snapped and needed cutting out. Almost had a nasty accident as I supported the rear on the beam, so when I cut through the last bolt the car collapsed on me. Had to shout for help to get me free!! So, taking it to a garage is not such a bad idea as we can all have a bit of bad luck.

Cheers boys, some good ideas. I'll be getting a new GB mount and checking out the drum brakes then.

The wife is moaning about a stiff gearchange and the brakes not having much bite on her '96 1.8 Golf SE. I've changed the fluid, disks & pads which improved overall braking but you really need to stand on then to get them to bite. I've driven a couple of other similar Golfs lately and they are just the same. I thought the C was meant to have poor brakes but they are fantastic in comparison, Any suggestions? As for the gear change, it is the rod type linkage and feels very stiff. I've greased up the linkages ontop of the gearbox but can't figure out how to get to the rods. I figure a oil change is in order but any suggestions to other fixes greatly appreciated.

err... I tried it :oops: well, something similar but probably the same stuff. Some sort of emulsifer spray that 'lifts' the dirt off the paint and leaves protective layer that ionises future dirt away so you don't have to clean it so often - Great! Well not quite. It did seem to shift the dirt quite easily (including bird poo) but left smeary swirls behind like you had butter on the cloth. Hense "the warmer it is the quicker it takes" as you have to keep rubbing until its gone. The end result was nothing special and it certainly didn't keep it clean any longer. If you're not that bothered with cleaning cars and want a quick way spruce up, then I spose it may be of use. But for the average C luvver, best stick with your sheepskin mit and a bucket for finest Thames Valley water.

he did say"about £30", so that may result to £80 Well I s'pose it is cheaper than having the car towed to them after it breaks down following a passing frigate wiping the key with its radar!

I have a 95 VR6 but only have 1 old key and am a bit nervous about loosing this or it going faulty (transponder). VAG have quoted me £15 per key and apprx £30 to get them programmed. Is there a cheaper alternative?? Can you do this yourself with VAG-COM?? I did think about getting a cheapy key cut down the high st and taping the transponder to the coil!!

Definatly, especially as they may offer an 'exchange' which they do for the 9a so is only around £30 IIRC.

Do you think the decat makes the most difference or the BMC ? If it is that good then I suspect the decat as the filter is more of a noise thing with a bit more responce. I stuck a cone filter on and it improved throttle response but was v loud (when giving it some!), so I'm making my own BMC with a few bits of carbon tube (hoe difficult can it be??!!). I'm also considering a decat but only if it warrents the hassle of changing each year. What you fink :?:

the engine speed sensor always comes up as your engine is not running!

The clutch on all C's are hydraulic so should be lite compared to golf etc. I did read somewhere that when they do get heavy they need changing. Bet you wish you knew that last week!

Did I read correctly...£1500 ???? Does it actually have an engine? I wouldn't have thought so for that amount! I thought I got a good deal @ £3.5k for a 94 with similar milage. Well done though, you should be v.pleased with yourself especially when you get the new bits on. I'm looking forward to the Koni/H&R/FK GB to finalise so I can get mine sorted. These 12 yr old VR suspensions are a bit bouncy eh.

Is the sound improvement that good? I mean £180 is alot of dosh, almost half a koni/H&R setup, which will certainly give you a noticable difference. I understand that you need to get bigger cones in the door, but surely this can be done with a bit of mdf & sticky stuff? How difficult can it be?? Then with my sensible head on, I know you can't match the quality of the audioscape pods by doing it yourself and then you can always sell them on when you get too old to drive the C! I expect it is another of those seemingly easy jobs that you elect to do yourself then live to regret it. :|

you finished yet??

that's a posh one. These are just crude springy bits of wire. Ooo, forgot to mention, make sure you get the 2 washers the right way round. Plastic one on first (can't remember which way round though) followed by the metal one with the concave bit facing you. You also need to use all the grease. Squeeze 1 pouch into the joint (which gets forced through the bearing when the drive shaft slots in) and the second just as you are about to fit the boot (which of course you remembered to slide into the drive shaft before the joint!!)

ooo so many questions! Well you have got further than I did when I changed mine! The ball jnt on the control arm fits in a similar way to the other ie slightly tapered into the hub carrier. I couldn't even get the bolt off as it just turned the ball in the socket, ended up using a hacksaw and fitting a new joint. I assume you have a ball jnt seperator? Try using that to get some pressure on it then give the hub carrier a good whack. Perserverance and brute force should sort it. It makes things easier if you remove the 2 bottom strut bolts as you can then knock the hub carrier/CV joint off the drive shaft with your lump hammer. Either cut or lever the clips off. You should have new ones in your kit which are tightened by squeezing the square bit that is on there - use your 'side cutter' or similar. The 'C' bit is the circlip that clips on the end of the drive shaft and slots into the CV joint to hold it in position. Nearly there! It takes a fraction of the time to put back together

the driveshaft has a circlip on which is compressed slightly as it is slotted into the CV joint. this then expands back to hold itin postion on the joint. The joint is a pretty tight fit and needs a good thumping to get it off the shaft (which obviously deals with the circlip!). If you say it is loose, then it is probably the CV joint, but that also doesn't make sense as it makes a right racket when they wear. You could slide the boot off to see what is actually moving. you'll need a big jubilee clip or cable tie to secure it back again. If it is the joint, GSF do a full kit for around £50 details on fitting here http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35184

Cheers Boys I'll try using the amp on the front spks and if that helps I'll look into getting a 4ch amp - maybe the JBL which is currently £99 @ caraudiodirect. current shopping list: 2x Tyres 1x snowchains (for driving to Alps next month) 4x H&R springs 4x Koni TA's 1x 4/5 Ch amp 2x Audioscape pods They're not kidding when they say VR6 ownership is expensive :shock:

Cheers Chris, might use that amp I got from you for the mrs and plug it into the fronts (unless it's crap of course??), or I might bin the sub and stick with the 6x9's and amp the fronts. I assume you upgraded your amp, was it worthwhile??

System: JVC HU, those little JBL's that replace the OE's, Pioneer 6x9 in p' shelf, Vibe CBR 12" with "Lightning Audio FF150.s amp (150rms I think). Problem: Just got the sub working and was expecting a improvement in sounds, but not so :( If I fade to the front spks then it is all tish & boom, even with the rear JBL's working. If I change the rears to the 6x9's then it gets soo much better (at low to normal levels) but the sound is coming from behind and the sub messes with the shelf spks when it gets loud. I have also noticed the front spks starting to pop when turned up as they are struggling to keep up with the 6x9's. I've heard that amping the front components is recommended, but would the improvement benefit me? Also, what do you have to do to the Vibe box to make it sound good, bigger amp or change to a sealed 10" I know the Audioscape pods with larger spks is an obvious answer but that will be apprx £300 which will almost get me the H&R/Koni setup which is somewhat more important. Advice greatly appreciated.

Apart from all the usual Corrado points, have a good listen to the head. Take a big screwdriver with you and stick it on the cam cover with your ear to the other - if you are partially deafened then it needs doing! = £500 Bear in mind that these motors don't come alive til 4k rpm, so make sure the owner gives you a good test drive, even if he drives. As Steve said, you should be able to tell what life it has had, if it looks good (no rust, good interior etc) and no obvious mechanical probs, then you will be the same as the majority of members on the forum. You will have ongoing problems but they are quite easy to deal with on the valver if you have a good set of spanners - it's half the fun of C ownership!

the circlip fits on the driveshaft and the CV joint slides over it into position, which is why you need a hammer to remove the joint. I believe you are thinking about the straps that secure the boot, just cut/pull off the old ones as you get nice new ones in the CV kit. You do need a pair of 'side cutters' or similar to tighten though (Halfords £2) I take it you haven't got a Haynes bible! Go down to your local libary in the morning and have a look and any VW, they are all very similar and all will become clear.

If it knocks when you pull away in a straight line, then it is likely to be the inner. If it knocks when you pull away at an angle, then it is the outer. They start to knock when on full lock and then gradually get worse with less angle on the wheels. Ball Joint Seperator I beieve. Either a crude wedged fork which you bash with a hammer or a more refined gizmo that eases the ball out by winding up a bolt - see here http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/s.nl/sc.9/category.99/.f Pop down to Halford and get yourself a VW Golg/Passat Haynes manual and you'll see the ball joint tools on the rack

the outer ones are generally diagnosed by knocking when on full lock which is when they are stressed the most. As the inner ones don't move as much they knock on acceleration whichever way the wheels are facing. My money is on the outer. As for fitting, you need to remove the hub bolt which is accessable through the wheel centre cap. Make sure you have the socket for that first (I didn't!! :( Then it's the ball joints - you'll need a tool for this (apprx £5-10). The if your lucky you can knock the drive shaft out of the hub then knock the CV joint off. If your not lucky (like me) then you'll have to detatch the hub from the strut and knock it off the driveshaft complete with CV joint. It's only held on the shaft by a circlip which you can't get to. You can then seperate from the hub by a hammer & drift. Refitting takes a fraction of the time but is a bit messy as you have to pack in shed loads of grease. Also, don't forget the new hub nut ( :oops: ) and you have to tighten it like billey0 - 200lb/ft or something (basically as tight as you can with a good persuader!) Have a read of a Haynes manual, it'll give you a few more tips.

sounds like a CV joint to me, I had exactly the same problem xmas week. They cost around £50 from GSF and can be fitted yourself if you have the correct tools and don't mind getting covered in grease. I did mine myself and regretted it! Have fun :wink:

I read this thread with interest as I also found out that my aux wp was dead. I didn't think I had a problem with the temps as it sat at around 80-90° with the odd 110° when sat in traffic in the summer. Fitted a new pump and the temp has dropped by a good 25% so now sits just above 70° and best of all, in these cold dark winter days, the heater starts blowing warm air within a mile of driving! A worthy fix, even though a bit pricey.