Niges16V

I wouldn't worry about it just yet as it can take a few days/weeks to get back to normal. I had the same problem after bushes etc changed by a VW specialist (JMR) and it took about a month to sort itself as I don't do many miles. Rado's have some strange quirks that even the experts can't explain! As long as you can stop get out and enjoy some corners!!

if you have a add-on headlight loom then it is likely that the relay has suffered water ingress and is shorting out. Mine did this as the relays were in front of the battery, I've now replaced them and gooked all the contacts with silicon and housed them in a secondary enclosure, so should be OK now.

that will be the fuse in the motor, costs a few pence and someone to solder it on. Think there is something in the knowledge base.

How strange, I had a similar problem yesterday. Unit beeps a few times, shows some life but doesn't actually work. Pulled it out and checked that it had 12v, which it did so thought my HU was goosed. Dug out my old one to use in the meantime and I had the same problem with this too. Turned out to be that one of the 12V supplies (there's 2!) had come loose so wasn't able to power the unit properly. I suggest you check your connections again, then if no joy take a supply from the ciggy lighter and try that.

you need the disks for the late Golf VR (Highline). I assume you also got the carriers off the Golf as this is the important bit! You also need different hoses which I guess you have already noticed. It's a great mod to do, one of the best for the 'night & day' experience!!

Does this reseal the leather with that nice smooth surface? I imagine after sanding it down it would leave an almost fluffy texture of the leather. The reason I ask is that my steering wheel is feeling a bit rough after many years of sweaty paws and strong sunlight so just thought this might give it a new lease of life??

All fixed now :D John @ JMR traced it to poor connections & wiring in a number of places which was effectivly starving the ECU of power. Not that serious after all, but obviously tricky to diagnose & fix for a novice like me. Thanks for all your advice guys, so much more effective than a Haynes manual!!

The DTA might be a plan (if I knew what is was!), don't mind spending a bit more to upgrade! The fuel pump isn't kicking in at all. We got it running by shorting the relay but it still didn't fire. Besides, if it was the fuel relay then the others would still be kicking in wouldn't they?

I think that most the Golf's are OBD2. Didn't our old friend Trig have probs with his ECU (same year as mine I think) and ended up converting to OBD2 at great expense? Just starting to worry that it may be an expensive fix which will open the debate as to whether it is worth it! I'm on 155k with no evidence that the chains have been done, add these 2 factors together and it's probably mega bucks! Maybe a 24V conversion??? or am I jumping ahead of myself a bit??? :lol:

Thanks for the detailed responce Kev, most helpful as always! Yes I have been able to use VAG-COM in the past with my ebay opto cable with USB converter, and it also works on the wifes Golf III. The error I got was : Address 03 Controller: Note: Excessive Comm Errors So you could be right about the comms wire, but just a bit coincidental that it breaks and I have this breakdown. I've spent a week trying to figure it out and it's just getting more complicated. The only thing I could try now is a ECU swap as you explained, but as I do not have access to another and the weather is not ideal for outdoor mechanics I am going to have to rely on Mr Mitchels expertise.

No, don't have a spare ECU VAG-COM just comes up with "too many comms errors", it did find the ABS details at one point but then just reported "too many errors" again. The mobile chappy didn't have any luck with his "£8000" diagnostic kit either. If I take the cover off the 109 relay and close the contact manually, will this work? I could then try VAG-COM again. But too be honest, I'm going beyond my limited knowledge at this point and therefore wouldn't know what is good or bad. I've booked a car trailer for the morning and will take it to JMR in Littlehampton. If it is the ECU, is it a case of simply getting another from a breakers and bolting it on?? I doubt it! Oh, forgot to say that I have found the wiring diagram on the Russian site and concluded that the crank sensor is OK (maybe).

I had previously tested the resistance across pins 1&2 at 565 ohms so assumed the crank sensor to be OK, but to be sure I borrowed a scope and got these results: Pin 1 Red - 3.58V @ 10Hz ac wave! Pin 2 Green - nowt, just a bit of noise Pin 3 Black - as above So I guess the problem lies deeper within as there is no 12Vdc getting to the sensor. Can anyone shed some light on this or at least provide a wiring diagram?? Getting a bit tired of this now :(

Booo. Checked the ignition switch & crank sensor last night and they seem fine. Gave in and called a mobile mechanic out this morning who basically double checked what |had and came to the conclusion that it was the alarm. Called out the alarm chaps who promptly bypassed the system and still no joy. So I'm £85 down and got nowhere! Any suggestions? or should | hire a trailer and tow it to a Rado specialist as I have no confidence in Joe Bloggs mechanics.

Nope, no extras, just a key & fob as the jingle jangles wind me up. I've even stuck fluffy stuff on the steering cowl to stop the fob clonking it while driving along :D Anyone know how to test the switch, or should I just try to 'hot wire' the car with the switch removed??

I did actually change the ignition switch last year along with the 109 relay when I had the same problem but intermittant. It was from GSF so it could be possible that it has failed again. I will try to test it tonight by removing the wire connector block and shorting out the pins to create some nice sparks which should start the engine - according to what I see on the telly :D Thanks for the offer of the sensor, I may well take you up on that after i've checked it out with a scope. I'm going to cancel the alarm bypass as it is £50 and doesn't sound as though it is the problem. If I can't figure it out in the next couple of days I think I had better tow it to a garage.

I'm in need of help again! Had the VR towed home by the AA after it refused to start on Friday. The AA reported that there is no spark or fuel and suspected the alarm as it was triggered prior to the non-start by the window being open. He wanted to check the crank sensor but run out of time. I doubted the alarm theory as it is a 18month old Autowatch 160RLi which is known to be reliable, but when I couldn't connect VAG-COM due to "Excessive comms errors" I thought maybe the alarm was cutting power to the ECU. I called the installers today and they couldn't see the link as they cut into the fuel and starter motor (the starter motor kicks in as normal). They said they could bypass it to rule it out but at a fee of £50. The other 'usual suspects' I believe are the 109 relay and ignition switch, but both were replaced last year. I hope to get a scope to check the crank sensor tomorrow. Does anyone know what to do with the scope to check the crank sensor? Any other suggestions greatly appreciated!

I thought the way the previous guys did the mounts would make the seat too high so i did it slightly differently. The rear of my TT runners are level with the botton lip of the slides in the rado and still with the seat lowered fully it is apprx the same as 1 notch up with the standard set up. I think my head would be bouncing off the roof if i made the brackets illustrated in the wikki!! Drop me a pm if you are still stuck and I'll send you a piccie and measurements of mine.

yup, banjos missing. If your using VAG hoses then simply order them at same time. You then just need the disks and pads then your off!

No problems elsewhere, it is simply a case of chopping an inch or so off the legs and drilling a new hole. If you send me your email address I will take a couple of piccies if you like. Won't be til tomorrow mind as i took advantage of this spring like day and cycled to work, and I don't know how to upload piccies here.

I have a Goof VR subframe on mine, the only difference is the two fixing points to the car chassis to the rear where the Golf ones are slightly longer and the 2 fixing bolts are further apart. I had to chop a couple of inches off and drill a new hole on each leg. It is a bit tricky getting the correct dims but it was worth it as sourceing a 2nd hand Golf subframe is a hell of a lot easier than for a Rado!

same thing happend to a chap from the electric board just down the road from my work just a few weeks back. He drove home towards portsmouth on the A27 on a friday afternoon and must have dosed off and headed into a layby at high speed and met with an arctic on a taco break with the same consequences. Strange thing is that it is a 7 mile stretch of dual carrageway with no exits, just a couple of laybys and lots of grassy banks and he managed to get a layby!!

I've wired mine up! You just need the two fat wires for + & -, the thinner two wires are from the thermister for temperature control, you can't use these as they probably used to go to the ECU or something. I wired mine through a relay to two mini latching mpb's mounted on a blank in the dash. I switch on in the morning and can feel them warming within a couple of mins, when they get nice and hot I just switch off as the heater has warmed up by now.

you'll find it in his profile - 16VG60

do you think they will take a VR as PX with the rest on tab??

How do you actually remove this?? I found that my lever is a little stiff which means it is very stiff to move with the controls. After lying on my back upside down looking at this lot I decided it was dash out job, which I could really do without.