Niges16V

hey Kev, what was that about opening the door cards for uber bass?? You didn't say anything about that when I was picking your brains a few months back! I got the pods with Lotus spks and still haven't managed to get the sound I was hoping for. How much cutting is needed??

It simply monitors the firing of No4 cylinder (or is it No!??). Just a plastic ring round the cable, but you need to remove (unscrew) the plug that fits on the distributor to slide it on. Have a look on yours, it's the right hand pot.

Certainly did Stanley! You can unscrew the GSF ones to slide the sensor over. I changed mine cos they looked ropey and the car had been neglected by previous owner. As they are so expensive I would suggest you make sure you need new ones before shelling out.

I had the GSF ones and they seemed fine. The 16V ones are expensive though due to the long reach needed.

I think this is the same for alot of newish cars. I drove my bosses RS4 expecting great things. It was certainly fast but felt sanitised, apparently it gets a bit better when pushed. I also had a Leon 20VT for a while, same opinion. Still prefer to drive my VR though. Do you think the "character" is in direct proportion to old knackered bits that don't work??

Yep, mine are on but not the wishbones!! Pesky bolt sheared off on the front passenger side. Spent my weeks holiday trying to drill it out (instead of taking wifey to Devon) and finally gave up Saturday :mad: Need to find somewhere that can save the subframe before I do any more damage. Looking forward to testing it against yours though, the rear bushes made a huuuuge difference and the front ones were so shot I'm surprised they were still on the car!

yeh, wrong contents mate. I just ordered the post 95 front hoses and got the banjo fittings as required.

Done it :cheers: Had to trim a little bit off the bush and bend the bracket so it lined up with the bolt, as it tightened it pulled the bracket back into shape. Now need to sort the front wishbone pivot bolt which sheared off and then change the fron brake lines as they have corroded onto the flexi pipe. Should keep me busy for a few days!

But I've only goy 1 pair of hands!! Looks like I'll need a volunteer to help, not easy in this weather!! Thanks, I'll try moving the bar and see if that helps

Yes, the late VR's are alot higher, commonly known as the 4x4 effect which is why most peeps lower them.

Aren't the Dremmel's a bit weedy and expensive for what you get? Compare it to the air tools available - £20 for a whizzer. Don't think you have the choice in accessories though

The bush is in but I can't pull the bracket down far enough for the bolt to bite. They make contact, just, but not at the right angle so the thread doesn't marry up. The problem is that the VR ARB is 20mm whereas the bushes Polyflex supply are for the 18mm. Stupid!

Spending the weekend changing the front bushes on my VR, all going not to bad but I can't for the life of me get the blasted brackets back over the new poly ARB bushes. I'm using a crobar to lever it down with one hand and the other to try to get the bolt back in, but it's just not happening. I know it's meant to be hard but this is getting silly now. Any tips greatly appreciated. I've managed to change the ones in the wishbones ok, the big rear one was shagged, had splits that almost went to the other side and it had seperated from the metal outer ring so much that I could almost remove it by hand!!

I believe both are banjo at the caliper end and I would assume the banjo bolt to be the finer thread like on the MIV Golf. The MkIII 288 calipers are still banjo but have a courser 1.5 thread on the bolts (this is why the Goodridge kits are pre & post '95 on the Golf/Corrado). If you use the MkIII Golf carriers then spacers are not needed. I did read on here that spacers don't work on the 288 discs as the pad makes contact with something, which means you can't use the newer carriers.

oops, wrong button!

na, it's the ECU relay!

I was in a similar position last year, but without the £4k. Luvd my valver, spent £1k in cyl hd rebuild & new wheels, realised I needed to spend alot more to get it mint, but it would still be a valver! Sold it and bought a VR :D Valvers are great cars but still the 'entry' level C. If you are hooked with a C then spend your money on a G60 or VR as you will get better returns, in driving pleasure & resale (if money speant wisely). I hear John (16VG60) is selling, could bag yourself one of the nicest & most powerful G60's about!!

I think you need a very long extention so you can undo the bolt from above the engine. As with most jobs on these 10+ yr old cars, easy if you have the tools!

Thanks for the advice. Looking forward to experiencing the 'new ride'! Still tempted on the rear ARB but thinking I should get the basics done first as I'm sure there will be some hidden expenses with this, especially when fitting the rear bushes, such as brake lines etc.

Do I sense one of 'those' simple DIY jobs coming on :roll:

OK cheers guys, looks like the right kit is on it's way.

Starting to sound a bit better... do the bushes slide along the length of the ARB or are they split for pushing on?? If split then I can see that a 18mm one might fit with a bit of persuasion The rears are OEM by the way!

Awesome just called me back and said they had all been scratching thier heads and ended up speaking to Poweflex themselves who confirmed that the kit is different to the Golf/16V Corrado as you don't need the drop links?! Nothing was mentioned about the 18mm ARB though. Still can't see how it's going to fit. dub envy, same as you mate. having the rear beam done in 2 wks and want the front end sorted as well.

Trying to order a Polyflex front kit and they mentioned that the ARB bushes are for a 18mm ARB. This didn't sound familiar so I measured mine and it's 20mm. Is there a different bush I need or does the 18mm fit somehow?? Quick help appreciated as I need to get this sorted.

I've just Dynomatted my door up, do you think that will be a problem??