Niges16V

Ayrton Senna ! (tenna) someone did a nice little guide on how to do it, you need nimble fingers and a long tin screwdriver

Mine's the same so I wired it to the constant live. I think it might be one of the symptoms of a dodgy ignition switch, but that could just be me imagining it.

Classic! :lol: The Eibach set (front & rear) is about £225 or the Neuspeed rear is £145There is also a GB for the H&R's at the mo which is a good deal.. The Oracle that is known as Kev reckons you only need the rear "takes it to the next level" he says" Scalett also swears by them.

ahhh nutz, the Mrs is going to kill me! Oh well, spose it's best to get all the tricks on and enjoy them while the engines going well! Ooo, just been promoted after 2 yrs! CF Regular, sounds cool eh!

Ooo, comments like that make me want one even more! I'm getting my rear bushes done at the end of the month so planned to change the front to poly's as well before forking out for the 4-wheel alignment. I could always postpone this for a while and get a ARB instead! What you thinks??

They look quite easy except for removing the bottom strut bolts which is a pain if you have coilies. Let us know how you find the bar, I'm almost convinced on getting one myself.

you can get dash repair kits now that fill screw holes, much easier than changing the whole bloody thing!!

I was, but the VR price is not as exciting as the G60! and changing the bushes takes priority. Bit disapointed really as this is a 'must' upgrade by all acounts! Maybe later in the summer.

You have to slacken off the whole system and re-align it,. They don't just slot in as the pipe diameters are different. It's an easy mistake as I also did it.

What was that bit about not being for coilovered cars? Is it cos uprated arb's don't work correctly if car lowered too much, or is it a specific to the H&R? Mine's a VR6 with FK Konigs, but only lowered about an inch to avoid the 4x4 look, shouldn't be a problem should it?? Just need another 2 peeps then :)

VAT free? when was that?? When's the next one??? I reeeeaaaly want one of these now!!

So to summarise: Uprated ARB front & rear (cw poly bushes) OEM top mounts, bones & bj's Poly front bone bushes OEM rear bushes I should then be able to go round corners with huge grin on my face :D As ever, thanks Guys (& Gals)

Pair? where's the other one go apart from the front between the 'bones'?? I wish you would stop making me spend all my money Kev!

GSF quote £35 +vat (£45) and VAG are £58 (not sure if that includes VAT. In fact, I think I have just answered my original question! May as well stick with the originals. So I'm not likely to gain much with a uprated ARB then? That's a relief, just saved £200 !! Having a bit of a binge on the car at the mo, new suspension, full zorst etc and it's totally transformed it!

I’ve just fitted the FK Konigs and have had a taste of how the C really handles! So rather than spend £50/£60 on having the geometry done I thought it best to finish the job and get the front/rear bushes done. I will be using VAG rear bushes but am considering using pattern wishbones etc for the front (as they are half the price). Is this wise, or shall I stick with OEM?? Also, do I just replace the bushes on the ARB or should I upgrade the whole unit to the Eibach, ie. is it worth doing considering I have the uprated suspension??

I tried to remove the inner CV joint when changing the outer and couldn't get the hub carrier off the drive shaft. Wasn't that easy, in fact I failed. You need a torx bit, but the closest one I could get to fit (bought a metric set specially) just slipped when presure was used! So it's either a special size or you need top quality tools! If you can shift these bolts then it's pretty much easy, just a bit messy.

It depends on what sort of sounds you want. For cheapness, use a personal hi-fi with headphones! 2-way in the door will be better, low cost components better....... I used the entry level Magnat components in door & dash (£50) with 6x9's in the rear shelf (£50), much better than the JBL's!

The buzzing will be the main pump. It can either be being starved of fuel from the in-tank pump or it's wearing itself. I think you can test the in-tank one with a bit of spare pipe on the outlet, but if it is the main pump then that will cause the engine to stall when you are in motion, not at tickover ie when fuel is demanded.

It's numbered 109 top middle, cost about £11 +vat. You could try popping off the cover and giving the contacts a clean. Mine were a bit sticky after 11 yrs of operation. It could just be coincidental and I may find the problem comes back. If it does then I will suspect a fault with the ECU.

Just did the phasor trick on me tweets..and by jove, just the job :) I can now hear the mids in the pods instead of them being drowned out by the shreeking from the dash! Good call Mr Haywire :cheers: While I'm here, should I be using 4AWG to power my Geny amp (as in manual) or can I stick with the 8AWG already installed?? As it is powering the front I didn't think it would be too stressed due to lack of bass.

Is this what they call a 'soundoff', generally held in a supermarket car park?? Good idea though, I've spent more dosh on my toones than anything else, which is unusual for a VR owner!!

ahhh the VR6 violent jolt syndrome! There's a few threads on this, I had it myself - as though all power is cut for a second, then back on?? Also started having probs starting the car as well. I changed the ignition switch and cleaned the ECU relay and had no problems for 8 months. Then it started again just as I got off the Tunnel in Calais and started my journey to the Alps!! Then the starting probs again. Put a new relay in at the weekend so am hopefull I've seen the last of this.

There is a difference of early or late models with '95 being the xover. The guy @ GSF said mine was late (your old VR SeanoVR !). The filter was a Mann one with plastic ends. When I removed the old one it was a more hefty one with metal ends and the GSF filter disn't fit. So went and got the right one from the dealer instead. So I'm still not sure if mine is 'early' or 'late'. So if anyone needs the plastic/paper type filter, let me know!

Come on Kev, a few more tips please! We just want to get the best out of these Audioscape pods we've invested in. I also went for the Seas speakers on your recommendation but feel I'm not getting the best out them. I've set the xover to -6db but they still seem a bit bright (make you wince when it's loud!) So will running them out of phase improve this??

Give the stealers a call as they are an exchange product, much better than the GSF ones and still cheap!