Rpmayne

The alarms I've had detect whether the battery has been disconnected (or volts drop too low) and set the battery backed up siren off. I've had Halfords do a free battery load test in the past to make sure it is the battery. It may appear to have the correct volts but not enough current to back it up.

Thanks for all your help, found the problem at the weekend. Took the cam cover off again to double check the cam-to-cam timing against the cam pulley and crank. Found the inlet cam was a tooth out. Seems that when I lined them up they weren't at the centre points of the cam. Re-aligned it and put it all back together, now runs although abit rough. Going to get the distributor timing / mixture checked this week then hopefully all well. Never sounded like any valve/piston contact was made so hopefully got away with that. We shall see..

Cool, just updated the picture with the new labels. So far; Fuel pressure ok Injectors work if cranked and flap manually pulled Cam / crank / distributor timing ok (well, not 180deg. out and leads in the right places) Spark plugs working as occassionally it lazily fires

Sorry, didn't realise it was different to the Kjetronic on the 16v VW's. Would be cool if you can find anymore out. Checked the camshaft / crank timing marks and they are as close in line as they can be (about 1mm out on cam, but next tooth makes it further out). The distributor is attached to the end of the exhaust camshaft but doesn't look like a normal rotor arm / cap type, more like a sealed coil type. Tried advancing and retarding the ignition with no joy. Marked up where it came off so pretty sure it's where it was to start with but tried anyway.

I had this problem at the weekend because I'd lost the locking wheel nut (probably left it on the last one I did up and it fell in the road somewhere). Took into one of the AA / Halfords garages and they got them out. They were the ones with the rotating ring on the outside. They broke that off using a chissel type instrument, banged on one of those reverse thread nut removers and undid with a ratchet. Took them about 15min, and did it for a tenner for a couple of beers. I only half torque the locking wheel nuts so that may have helped.

Thanks for all that aide, will have another go tomorrow with that info. I gave the fuel pressure tester back to the garage but will hopefully get it back again. I've attached a picture of the fuel distributor, are my label correct? If so the system pressure I measured was about 70psi. I didn't measure the others as the fuel distributors had arrows next to the fittings pointing out so I assumed they were returns. Will also check all the timing again just to make sure. NOTE: PICTURE UPDATED.

Just been out playing with the Audi and tried lifting the fuel distributor flap while cranking the engine over. A healthy amount of fuel then came out of the injector. This doesn't happen when its just turned over without depressing the accelerator which surprises me. Annoying because I put it all back together again, held the accelerator half down and tried starting. It sounds like its going to start but doesn't. As the timing chain was really loose, is it possible the timing was set to compensate, and now its back to how it should be the distributor (spark plug one) needs adjusting?

I checked the pressure when the engines not cranking and it stays at about 5 bar so I think the one way valve is ok. I will try tonight, but if no fuel comes out of any injectors when the flap is pushed up while cranking, what's involved in stripping the fuel distributor? Would I need any new seals etc?

New sensor fitted and working, got the car down to the garage in the nick of time. Cheers for the help, see what else is wrong with it now.

Agree with the real value of enjoying it, but when it comes time to sell I can see the cars being sold as bits because only the brave / forum member will take on an engine transplanted car. That's the shame, not necessarily loosing money but loosing another car because it ends up unsellable. Still recon std VR rebuild, bolt on a supercharger if you're looking for extra power, then remove the supercharger and sell as standard when you're finished.

Yer, I thought the gearing was different aswell. There was a similar thread on this recently about putting 8v boxes onto 16v's for quicker acceleration. Didn't end up finding out what the differences were. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38457&highlight=

Sorry mate, missed that. :oops: I had TSW Hockenheims with that centre nut and got them off with a big plumbing adjustable spanner and a cloth as Phil K said. Only use to hand tighten mine and they used to stick, maybe the ally thread corroding is the cause. Failing that, how about using a punch and hammer to shock them undone. Could try putting a shim of some kind between the nut and punch to save damage.

Checked at lunchtime, front offside sensor is open circuit. Checked the cable down to the sensor from the engine bay aswell and that's ok so it should be the sensor. Onto GSF now, lucky its one of the cheaper ones I suppose. Did notice the cage is in good condition but slightly warped, gap looks about 1mm 95% of the way round then tightens up. Doesn't touch though so hoping that won't make any odds.

I had this problem at the weekend because I'd lost the locking wheel nut (probably left it on the last one I did up and it fell in the road somewhere). Took into one of the AA / Halfords garages and they got them out for a tenner. They were the ones with the rotating outside. They broke that off using a chissel type instrument, banged on one of those reverse thread nut removers and undid with a ratchet. Took them about 15min. I only half torque the locking wheel nuts so that may have helped.

Surprised about the 8v 16v torque, have had both and convinced the 8v was better off the mark. Probably the feel of the cams as you say though. Sounds like a win win then, if I had a go in one I'd probably kick myself for not going down that route. Fair play to those who have done it. Changing the wiring loom, engine mount positions etc etc still scares me though.

Handy to know, really hoping its a front one and I can get one quick. If not i have a 12v timer relay ready for retro-fitting. :D

Sods law, have a tax and MOT issue which needs sorting asap. Not sure you get the 2 weeks grace anymore (if you ever did, might just be pub talk that). So test each sensor for 1.2Kohm +/- 300 then. After reading a few previous threads, I take it the front ones can be bought from GSF for about £30, whereas the rears cost about £120 from VW?

Or maybe a ball joint has dried out. Had one go on the roll bar of the Audi, sounded like someone taking an angle grinder to the inside of the arch when it tried to flex. Surprising how much noise they can make.

Does the extra valves not get back to a similar argument as the old 8v vs 16v mk2 golfs? Greater top end bhp at the expense of reduced low down torque etc on the 16v?

Booked the Corrado in for a MOT for thursday and now the ABS has started to play up. When the ignition is turned on the light comes on then goes out as normal, then as soon as the car starts to move the light comes on. Does this give any clues as to whether its a sensor or a corroded cage? Forgot to ask but do they actually check the ABS works for an MOT or just the breaking efficiency? As long as they don't expect the ABS light to turn on then off normally, I could just temporarily disconnect the light eh?

Thanks for that. I've now done the following: 1. Changed the fuel filter. Pump still makes a racket though, maybe on its way out but not there yet. 2. Have tried taking two injectors out now and neither supply fuel when the engine is cranked. Haven't tried them all yet though. I take it the CO2 adjstment manually moves the metering flap up and down? Just a thought but if I primed the fuel pump, took the injectors out then lifted the flap, would that let fuel go under the built up pressure? Just wondering if I can do it without adjusting the mixture.

I'm stuck again. Borrowed a fuel pressure gauge kit and measured the pressure to the fuel distributor. I get 4 bar when it primes then it fluctuates around 6 bar when cranking. I took an injector out and cranked it over and nothing came out. There was fuel vapour coming out of the open hole in the inlet manifold though. Any got any ideas? Fuel pump is making a racket so was pretty convinced it was that, yet the pressures seem ok.

Cost me £240. That's for wheels which needed no filling etc, just two 'flat spots' on one wheel which cost an extra £20. Expensive but does look a pretty good job. The test will be how long it lasts, they did put a leaflet in the box saying they can't guarantee the finish for any length of time due to oxidisation that had already occured. Usual cop-out.

Just thought I would post a few pics of the speedlines after Pristine had worked their magic to see what you think. Very pleased, only two slight imperfections which were just bits of dust that had got under the laquer but have to really look for it. Went for the anthracite colour in the end.

At this rate there's not going to be any standard ones left.. Should mean the rare standard ones should fetch more money eventually. :) If you got a 12v rebuilt and looked after it properly, surely it should last ok. There are some high mileage ones around so they must be capable. Got to make sure the second hand one you're putting in is in very good shape, probably more to fix that if it goes wrong.