Rpmayne

There are slots off center at the end of each cam. You can see that that one way round the bottom edge of these slots is in line with the top of the head casting (correct), and the other the slots are above by about 5mm (incorrect). I didn't use one and managed to get it together ok.

I've been with elephant for about 3 years and as happy as you can be with insurance. They do refund the difference when you get a lower grouped car, unlike Adrian Flux etc. I tried going from a mk2 16v to a polo 1.0L (very hard up and needed to look at options) with them and they would refund a stupidly small amount. Then went on to tell me how I need to build my NCB, which I will loose if I leave, so take it or leave it. :mad: Went from a mk2 8v to a VR6 with Elephant and they charged me an extra £50 for over 6 months remaining. Still can't beat their price, always trying.

Cool, just as well I don't polish my car much. :) Will have to invest in some of that wax then, hopefully got some decent wheels turning up and want them to stay like it.

I just use that all-in-one shampoo and polish stuff, and must admit when I do polish the car I've never done the wheels. Sort of assumed they were coated with harder wearing laquer. So do I need wax and not polish, or are they the same?

What's the best way of stopping brake dust burning through the laquer on alloy wheels? I always seem to trash mine within a few years, clean them fairly regularly but the dust seams to eat into the laquer, and once there that's it. Is there a protective coating that can be sprayed on or something?

PM sent jonocos.

Nice one, seems to be getting more and more difficult to get bargains from ebay now. Getting too well known.

Knew it would be too good to be true.. Just doubled checked the fitment and 215/45/15's need a wheel width of 7-8J, and the speedlines are 6.5J. They haven't turned up yet but if/when they do, does anyone want 4 x Toyo Proxies R's (new design) for £125.00 which is what I paid plus P&P / pickup?

I've just been quoted £35 / wheel for sand blasting and powder coating (only one tiny chip out of one of the rims which I can live with). For anyone who's had it done, does the powder coat finish look as good and seem as tough as the original finish?

I've been searching a few other forums and found someone who had them going spare for £100 plus £25 p&p. Just a lucky find, hoping they last longer than the S's though.

All ordered up, 4 new Toyo Proxies R's for £125.00 all in. Can't be bad, over £200 from Mytyres. Cheers for the help.

Thanks, I've seen some 215/45/R15's going cheap so will probably go for them.

Can you fit 205/55/15 and 215/45/15 onto the 6.5J Speedlines? Can't remember how it works, is it an increase in width needs a decrease in profile.. which would mean the 215/45/15's would fit? Will it be a noticeably harsher ride?

Would like to see that again, must be what started me wanting to own one (against any logical thinking and comfortable living). Any ideas where it can be downloaded from?

What do mean the quality of the VR's, the asking price for well used ones? How much have you been looking at spending?

Talking of Corrado vids, does anyone remember Jeremy Clarkson doing a review on the VR6 Corrado just before it was discontinued? I'm sure I remember seeing him driving one down a country road going on about the VR6 engine going into the Golf, so sealing the Corrado's non-existent future.

Just been checking a few stats out on the Pug 1.9Gti and Mk2 Golf 16v; Kerb weight (Kg): Golf = 907 & Pug = 875 so diff. = 32 Power to weight (bhp/tonne): Golf = 151 & Pug = 149 so diff. = 2 Quarter mile (sec): Golf = 16.2 & Pug = 16.3 so diff. = 0.1 I know the accuracy of these figures is going to be questioned but they all seem to tie up to the fact that they're almost identical. If chassis design comes into it, surely the Pug being made of metal similar to the gauge of tin foil is going to make it a tad unpredictable? :wink: Bibliography: http://www.globalcar.com/datasheet/Peug ... GTi1.9.htm http://www.globalcar.com/datasheet/Volk ... GTi16v.htm

Think we need a shootout like 5th gear did with the Integrale and M3, both within a second of each other... and both beaten by a Mitsubishi Colt CZT with 150bhp. :shock: http://fifthgear.five.tv/jsp/5gmain.jsp ... n=Shootout

Can't believe I'm hearing a Pug would out do a Corrado. Why is the Corrado VR still thought of as one of the best FWD handling cars then? No doubt they're fun much as the mk1 Golfs are but are they actually quicker? Need to find a 205 to drive now, think I must have been missing out.

Cheers, will forget that one then. Is the offset ok though? Did another search and found the VR6 offset is 43 because of the longer wishbones, haven't found what the mk4 offset or rim width is though. Hate rubbing wheels / rounding arches etc..

Sorry I know this has probably been aswered thousands of times but are the mk5 Golf alloys the same offset as the VR6 Corrado? Thinking of fitting some Golf mk4/mk5 205/55/16 alloys. Will these be rub free with a 40mm ish drop (gmax), given the increased profile aswell, even if the offset is the same? Thanks.

The original ECU in mine didn't have a socket for the chip, it was soldered directly onto the board. Pain to unsolder a 28-pin chip without cutting the legs off, wanted it whole to copy. Turned out this chip wasn't standard according to some ECU specialist company I used. Must have come out of the factory like it though, no signs of being resoldered. Ended up with a Golf VR6 ECU, and this came with a socket. Tried the original one and a BBR star chip, timed accelerations if anything were slower with the BBR chip. Both chips were easy to copy BTW, bit-for-bit copy onto new EPROMS costing about £1.50 EA.

I've got a Gmax kit on mine and the ride is abit crashy, plus I've noticed recently that one rear corner sits 15mm lower than the other side. Haven't investigated yet so don't know whats caused that. Also, front seems too soft compared to the back (VR6) so I do wonder whether they acutally change the kit for the extra weight of the VR lump or just use the 4 pot kit. And it sits lower than I would like although on standard wheels they don't rub. Seems to handle well enough though but would like the Koni H&R set as mentioned, just can't see where the 3x price tag comes from.

Cheers all, that makes sense now. Had the hole engine out and apart can't remember seeing the ISV. :roll: Will try cleaning that tonight. I changed that mufler thing about 15k ago after the old one blew itself to bits. :lol: Was quite impressive, can't quite remember how that happened now. Interesting you mention the MAF, if it is faulty that may tie up with the mighty 250miles I'm just about to reach from a full tank. (17MPG I make it) :mad:

The car has always had a intermittent stalling problem when coasting to a stop. Always starts ok, the revs just seem to dip to quickly for the ISV to save it. Thing is, am I right in thinking the ISV is the solenoid between the airbox side of the throttle intake pipe and the inlet manifold? I took the connector off to have a look and the solenoid doesn't have any pins, its just solid plastic. Is this a temperature operated valve or something? Also, the damper on the throttle body seems abit weak which could be allowing the throttle to shut off too quickly. Any thoughts?